DIY Cabs

BashCoder · Post by **BashCoder** » Tue Mar 21, 2006 8:54 am

OK, I'm biting the bullet here. I'm going to try building cabs from scratch. I have:

- Table saw w/extra roller stands for support
- Drill
- Router w/finger joint jig, guides for cutting circles in the baffles, bits
- Finish sander
- Clamps
- Gorilla glue
- Screws

I still need some stuff, so I have a few questions:

- Is there an online repository of cabinet plans (especially Marshall speaker and head box)?
- I was thinking about buying Mojo's glue. Is there something better?
- Where's the cheapest place to buy Tolex, grille cloth, corner hardware, etc?
- Any must-read books or sites?
- Any good software or online Q/volume calculators?

Thanks for any and all advice!

BashCoder · Post by **BashCoder** » Tue Mar 21, 2006 8:56 am

OK, just found this thread on some of the Tolex and glue stuff... http://www.metroamp.com/forum/viewtopic ... 1816#51816

johniss0001 · Post by **johniss0001** » Tue Mar 21, 2006 9:09 am

i have plans available for a 4x12 but my 4x12 is taller than any marshall pm me and tell me if you are interested.

BashCoder · Post by **BashCoder** » Tue Mar 21, 2006 9:43 am

Thanks -- PM sent.

Koa-dogg · Post by **Koa-dogg** » Tue Mar 21, 2006 10:20 am

There was a diagram on the 18WATT site for a Marshall Slant, but the site is temporarily down. It was a PDF file with all Dimensions and information. If I have it saved at home, I'll send you a copy if you are interested. The straight cab equivalent is the same without the slant (go Figure!) Building the Cabinet is pretty straight forward, especially if it is not a slant. Finger joints are good, but you need to check square and re-check square when gluing up. I ended up using a ton of clamps to hold it together and keep it square. Building the shell is the hardest part and its really not that hard. Once the shell is built, Line the front with some poplar (3/4" x 7/8") and some in the back for the back panel to screw in (Make sure you leave an opening on the sides for the baffle to slide in). The back pieces are offset from the back edge by what ever thickness of plywood that you are using + a little for the tolex. I made spacers to ensure that the strips were all equi-disant from the edge. Baffle's are easy as well, for a straight, a single piece of Plywood. I made a circle template for the speaker opening and used that for all of my speaker openings. Cut them out, placed the template in position (Held in place with some double sided sticky tape) and routed flush to the template. My template also had the speaker mounting holes on it so I drilled them at the same time the template was on. Once the speaker openings wee done, Glued the valence on the baffle, and then its off to round over the edges on the cabinet. The cabinet string channels were done on a table saw, but after the rounding over. There will be a few sections that have to cut by hand, but it is easy. You are essentially done at that point and ready for tolexing and attaching the grill clothe. Make sure to go over the cabinet and smooth over the transitions from the side to the round over, if it is not smoothed into the roundover, you will see it once the tolex is on. As for glue, I used the Tolex Glue from CustomPak Adhesives. Very forgiving and easy to apply. It is a water based glue so you do not have to worry about any VOC's. You will need superglue for the corners, super glue will be your friend!

As far as tolex, Shop around and see who has the best prices. They all are basically selling the same material, but pricing them differently. One word of caution. If you order Black levant from MOJO, get the Fender stuff and not the Marshall material. At the time that I ordered mine, they suggested that I get the fender material because it was thicker and better. Being a purist, i went for the Marshall material and I have had a hard time with tolex. The cloth backing is not attached well to the tolex and in doing the corners, I've had it seperate from the tolex, which was a pain in the A**.

Sorry it was long winded, but If you need any help or any ideas for the manufacture, shoot me an PM and I'll help out as I can. I do have some pictures of my builds, so if you would like any, I can e-mail you some.

Scott

BashCoder · Post by **BashCoder** » Tue Mar 21, 2006 10:35 am

Thanks, Scott -- great stuff. I'll PM you my email address.

And thanks, John, for sending me those plans.

johniss0001 · Post by **johniss0001** » Tue Mar 21, 2006 12:19 pm

bash my cab is normal angled cabs are 29 and 3/4" and mine is 34" so that is 4 and a1/4 bigger but my other dimensions are the same. please email me some feedback on my plans.

BashCoder · Post by **BashCoder** » Wed Mar 22, 2006 7:05 am

Can someone confirm these outside dimensions for a JTM-45 head cabinet?

26"W x 9" H x 8 1/4"D

3/4" plywood for the box and 1/2" for the front panel? I think I read that Marshall uses 15mm for the box and 12mm for the front panel. If I ask for that here in Tennessee, well.... I'm likely to get beat up.

3/4" or 1/2" roundover on the edges?

Dimensions for a 100W head would be appreciated as well.

Andy · Post by **Andy** » Wed Mar 22, 2006 10:53 am

Here are the plans from 18watt.

-Andy

BashCoder · Post by **BashCoder** » Wed Mar 22, 2006 8:51 pm

Sorry to pester, but I'm about to go downstairs and cut wood (if that's what the kids are calling it these days...). Can someone please measure their JTM45 head cabinet to confirm the measurements below?

BashCoder wrote:Can someone confirm these outside dimensions for a JTM-45 head cabinet?

26"W x 9" H x 8 1/4"D

3/4" plywood for the box and 1/2" for the front panel? I think I read that Marshall uses 15mm for the box and 12mm for the front panel. If I ask for that here in Tennessee, well.... I'm likely to get beat up.

3/4" or 1/2" roundover on the edges?

Dimensions for a 100W head would be appreciated as well.

BashCoder · Post by **BashCoder** » Wed Mar 22, 2006 8:55 pm

Andy wrote:Here are the plans from 18watt.

-Andy

Thanks Andy -- sent you a PM.

MRX2099 · Post by **MRX2099** » Thu Mar 30, 2006 4:09 pm

I also am building my cabinet from scratch as I did my 50W plexi head "alread built and rocking", but I am searching for a 1" roundover bit for the edges all I can find at Lowes and Home Depot and anywhere on the internet are 1/2" with 3/4 lengths any ideals where to get a 1" roundover bit from, I have a PDF from someone here that sent to me the dimensions I am going by for the 1960A cab if you need it still I can send it to you. just let me know

Jeff

62sg · Post by **62sg** » Thu Mar 30, 2006 8:12 pm

MRX2099 wrote:I also am building my cabinet from scratch as I did my 50W plexi head "alread built and rocking", but I am searching for a 1" roundover bit for the edges all I can find at Lowes and Home Depot and anywhere on the internet are 1/2" with 3/4 lengths any ideals where to get a 1" roundover bit from, I have a PDF from someone here that sent to me the dimensions I am going by for the 1960A cab if you need it still I can send it to you. just let me know

Jeff

Jeff.....have you checked ROCKLER for the 1"bit?
www.rockler.com

Necrovore · Post by **Necrovore** » Thu Mar 30, 2006 8:16 pm

Check your local wood working store for the 1" roundover bit. be prepared to spend at least $32 on one as well. I bought one from Harbor Freight trying to be thrifty and lunched a corner on a cab I was building. Buy quality.

http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=8063 (5th one down)
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=8255 (4th one down)
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2127 (3rd from bottom)
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2015 (high dollar 5th from bottom)

FWIW the router bits that Rockler sells are excellent grade/quality. The ones from Woodcraft are like one or two rungs down on the quality ladder than Rockler's tools. The CMT, Amana, Rockler house brand, Woodcraft house brand are all fine tools. You will not have to sharpen the bits as often as you would a no name brand or big Box store.

Another company you can try is Grizzly Tools. www.grizzly.com All of their tools are exceptional as well and aren't as expensive as the other two stores above (just remembered them before I posted this).

http://www.grizzly.com/products/C1191

Make sure that you get a Roundover bit and not a Veining roundover. the Veining Roundover bit's bearing is smaller than the regular roundover and will cut into the flat side of your cabinet.

Koa-dogg · Post by **Koa-dogg** » Thu Mar 30, 2006 10:01 pm

$32???? If you buy a decent bit, you'll pay more than that!!!