Tazin wrote: ↑Tue Oct 03, 2023 2:37 pmThe secondary of the PT is made up of three independent windings which are wound on top of each other. Therefore, the three heavy gaged wires (18 gage?) which are Green, Green and Green w/Yellow stripe should all have continuity between any combination of wire pairs. They should NOT have continuity with any of the other wires (i.e. Black, Yellow, White, Green (thinwall), and the Green (22 gage).
The same should hold true for the 22 gage Black, Yellow and Green wires....They should NOT have continuity with any of the other wires (i.e. Green (18 ga.), Green (18 ga.), Green w/Yellow stripe (18 ga.), White, Green (thinwall)).
Ditto for the White and Green (thinwall) wires...They should NOT have continuity with any of the other wires (i.e. Black, Yellow, Green (22 ga.), Green (18 ga.), Green (18 ga.), Green w/Yellow stripe (18 ga.).
Once you've sorted out which wires are grouped together via continuity label them if necessary. Now you need to sort out which wire is the center-tap for the Heater winding and also for the H.T. winding. Assuming the H.T. winding is comprised of the 22 gage Black, Yellow, and Green wires, you should have an Ohm's reading of approximately half the value between the Yellow and the Black wires compared to the reading between the Black and Green wires. For example, the Ohm's value across the Black and the Green wires is 12 ohm's verse the reading across the Black and Yellow wire which is 6 ohm's. The same example should hold true when comparing the Black and Green wires Ohm's value to the Green and Yellow wires value. So, the above example would show that the 22 gage Yellow wire is the H.T. center-tap.
The Heater winding is more difficult since the wire has basically no resistance value due to its large diameter coupled with the fact that it's a small winding (very little turns of wire). Here you can use a couple of resistors of equal value (i.e. 10K) and temporarily clip them on the ends of the two heavy gage (18 ga.) Green wires. Here you'd measure across the free ends of the resistors on the two Green wires and you should see a value of 20K on the multimeter. Then you'd measure between one of the Green wires with the 10K resistor (the free end of the resistor again) and the heavy gaged (18 ga.) Green w/Yellow stripe wire (which has no 10K resistor) and your meter should read only 10K. Perform the same reading across the other Green wire with the 10K resistor and the resistor less Green W/Yellow stripe wire and it should also show 10K on your meter. In this example it would show that the heavy gaged Green w/Yellow stripe wire is the Heater center-tap.
Again, once you've sorted out the center-tap wires for the Heater winding & H.T. winding label them.
Tazin thank you for the detailed response and valvestorm thank you for the help. I’ve got a good grip on which wires are what now, as far as the high voltage and heaters and which are the center taps and so on. Can’t tell you how much I appreciate the help.
It’s more so that I’m trying to understand everything vs the build journal where it tells me which wires go where without any explanation.
If you’re up for it… think you can help me finish off the rest of this step regarding the “blue wires” from the bias circuit? Journal doesn’t say anything but which wires to connect.
Again, it’s more so I have an understanding and confirmation of what I’m doing/thinking to complete it. Thanks again.