ivan H wrote:Hi, if I'm understanding u right u currently have wot is shown in the top (or 1st) diagram in the last post. That is two 50uf caps wired in parallel to give 100uf, exactly the same as the next diagram & wot is shown in the schematic. It is impossible to wire a dual cap can in series. Series wiring means one caps positive to the other caps negative, leaving a positive free at one end & a negative free at the other. Cheers
I kind of wondered if I was being retarded thinking about it in that manner. So the JMP 2203 just has two 50/50uf cans wired in series. So I could potentially do that. I wonder if I have a bad cap can. It is brand freaking new. Bahh.
If I am getting 120hz buzz/hum through the amp that goes away when I touch the chassis, then what do I have?
Does this mean I have DC introduced where signal is? Does that also mean I have a grounding issue?
I have tried every which way to redo all of the grounds in the amp and I am kind of at a loss.
In other news, I installed the Classic Tone OT and the impedance tap. I love the character of the Classic OT. It further reduced some of the hum. I think that the OT was dying. I also installed a false center tap setup on the heater wiring to see if I could reduce hum further. It made no difference. So i am removing it. Neikeel called that one.
I have two other interesting things going on. First, channel 2 allows signal to come through when the pot is at 0. Channel 1 doesn't. Also, it is by far the noisiest. Which I think is expected.
Second, the hum gets worse the more I turn up the presence pot. I really think that is where I am getting the main source of hum. My NFB resistor is 10K because at 47K the hum was unbearable.
Getting closer though. Much closer.