Picked up a 1969-70 Marshall Basketweave 4x12

[Scumback Speakers]

The 67/68 cabs had the plywood strip under the baffle board. They moved to the triangles in the lower baffle board in 69, which I personally thought had a hair better tone than the 67/68 cabs.

After 69 they didn't put the triangles in to support the caster socket pins (as in yours), and I really don't know why, but they sounded less solid/toneful to me after they took those out. I'm sure it was the physical connection to the frame with the caster socket pin screwed in there (or pounded in) to the baffle.

Of course, that made them hell to get out to put new cloth on them!

That's why I used the Fender pop-in casters on my 69 spec cabs so I could drill through the caster socket plate with the pin into the baffle board. Made for possibly an even stronger/more solid connection.

In any case, that's the difference.

Enjoy!

Jim

[chrisom]

Excellent information- Thanks! I found more:
viewtopic.php?t=31245

[chrisom]

I got around to pulling the 11" logo off my cab. Once I established which holes were put there for this logo, I was able to locate the 5 original holes in what seems to be in a straight horizontal row.

When I look at my newer 6" Marshall logo, I found it is also 5-pin, but in a different spacing than the older cabinets. I placed a sheet of paper over the holes on my cab, and pierced the paper with a tiny screwdriver to record the hole distances.

The newer logo has 4" + 9/16" distance between the far pins.
The newer logos are: 'pin-to-pin' (L to R, from the backside of the logo):
1" + 2/16" between pins, 1" + 1/16" between pins, 1" + 5/16" between pins, and 1" + 1/16" between pins.

From looking at the holes on my cab- There is almost exactly 5" distance between the far pin holes, and on the original logo my cab would be: 'pin-to-pin' (L to R, from the backside of the missing logo):
1" + 3/16" between pins, 1" + 5/16" between pins, 1" + 6/16" between pins, and 1" + 2/16" between pins.

I read the pin-outs changed in late 1969. I just wanted to know if my pin measurements sounds typical of any specific era. I think this confirms it had a small 6" logo instead of a medium 9" logo- Correct?

[chrisom]

Having trouble posting pic. It keeps saying, "It was not possible to determine the dimensions of the image. Please verify that the URL you entered is correct."

Anyway, here's the link- co

http://i1372.photobucket.com/albums/ag3 ... zwlou5.jpg

[neikeel]

Yes your logo is the one here:http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MARSHALL-SCRI ... SwpDdVVeUU

[chrisom]

Thanks- I'll most likely get one of those for the sake of authenticity, and so I don't have to drill any more holes in the cab. Wow- 29 British Pounds isn't so bad, but adding 20 British Pounds for shipping IS... OUCH

Edit: I ordered it- Can wait to get and install it!

[chrisom]

Here's an early 70's cab I picked up today on Kansas City CraigsList, trading an empty JCM bottom cab for this, also without speakers. (I don't know why I'm having trouble linking to Photobucket)

70's Cab 01
[IMG]http://i1372.photobucket.com/albums/ag3 ... nlpjkf.jpg

When picture loads in Photobucket, arrow to the Left to see 2 more pics. Hilarious how many people spray-painted their grilles with black spray paint!
70's Cab 02
70's Cab 03

[chrisom]

This is what I found when I removed the old junky speakers from my basketweave cab. It looks excellent!
I wonder how hard it would be to flip the grill with not extra to pull on? Seems to be sturdy still.

http://i1372.photobucket.com/albums/ag3 ... jcaoct.jpg

Still having troubles posting pics. Never had this before. Plus, I have to keep 'logging in' every time I do some edit/post action. Click on link to see pic- co

[neikeel]

Can't see your pictures as the album is locked.

[chrisom]

Doh! That explains alot... Try them now- Not sure how they got locked..

[neikeel]

You can flip the cloth if you are expert but often there are little pulls and snags on the hidden side that need trimming.
If you do flip it you end up with a mismatch between patina of cloth and levant that often looks wrong to me.
It's your cab but you risk damaging or spoiling what you have, IMO.

Re the other cab that black painted cloth will need replacing unless you can clean it as the chequerboard does not flip and the paint comes through into the material both sides. Large check is still available but again needs skill to get it straight and tight.

[chrisom]

Thanks for the good advice, Neikeel. I have re-grilled a few with good results before, but I might just leave it as-is. I did order the original-style logo 6" Gold (brittle) type from Londonvintagegadgets that you suggested on Oct. 31, so it should be here- It's been stalled in Chicago, IL for a week . I take it you were able to access the photos okay?

[chrisom]

My original-style Marshall 6" Gold (brittle) type logo from Londonvintagegadgets arrived! It looks great- The 5 mounting pins lined up PERFECTLY with the holes in my old 1969 cab! Thanks, Neikeel!

By the way- Who has the most accurate early-'70's style Marshall checkered grill cloth? I bought some a while back, only to find on closer inspection it was not really the same as Marshall's and had a greenish-tint. It doesn't look bad on a JCM cab, but it's not accurate to those in-the-know...

[Scumback Speakers]

tubesandmore.com in Arizona (part of CE Distribution) has real Marshall cloth. It's as close as you can get I think, but since it's new, it's not going to be faded/aged like a 70's cab will be. Just go to grill cloth, check Marshall and hit the enter button.

From the CE Site: https://www.cedist.com/products/grill-c ... ck-32-wide

Good luck!

Jim

[chrisom]

neikeel wrote: If the cab has the original tubes still there then the Fender pop-ins are the best ones to use. Originals are rare as hen’s teeth and are nearly all knackered by now.

Scumback Speakers wrote: chrisom, that's a 69 cab. The Fender pop-in casters should fit those tubes if you lube them up, they are a hair small for them I think. Use soap or some other non destructive lubricant (not sure WD40 would work or not) to help glide them in.

Got them. A drop of oil and some light tapping with a blunt punch and small hammer slid them right in. Thanks!