fixing a 1968 straight cab - center post question
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fixing a 1968 straight cab - center post question
Hello everyone,
I've been slowly resuscitating a butchered 1968 straight cab.
At some point, the center post was removed to make room for an interior shelf that served lord knows what purpose. Does anyone know how much the post should be longer than the distance to the rear panel mount? Am I correct that it should be a rough cut pine 2x4?
Any suggestions for the rubber part that looks like it should go on the end of it?
Thanks!
I've been slowly resuscitating a butchered 1968 straight cab.
At some point, the center post was removed to make room for an interior shelf that served lord knows what purpose. Does anyone know how much the post should be longer than the distance to the rear panel mount? Am I correct that it should be a rough cut pine 2x4?
Any suggestions for the rubber part that looks like it should go on the end of it?
Thanks!
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Re: fixing a 1968 straight cab - center post question
I believe the center post is cut to a length where it touches the backside of the back panel. The little rubber piece is what makes the fit snug. The dimensions of the center post is basically 2" x 4" (1-15/16" x 4") and has a mill finish (not rough cut). As for the little rubber piece; you could use anything suitable (a piece of drawer liner material for tool cabinets/chests, a piece of thin rubbery foam underlayment for composite flooring, etc.,).
- chrisom
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Re: fixing a 1968 straight cab - center post question
My late '68-'69 angled cab would have a different length than a straight cab, but the timber post is 3.75" x 1.875" (3+3/4" by 1+ 7/8") and it looks all-original.
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Re: fixing a 1968 straight cab - center post question
I just seen a '68 slant cab that had a center post with the following dimensions; 1-15/16 x 3-7/8 (1.9375 x 3.875). So, they vary a little bit...
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Re: fixing a 1968 straight cab - center post question
Thanks, everyone. Does there seem to be a consistency with the amount the posts jut in to the back panel? Or is it supposed to be flush with the back, as opposed to slightly pushing in to it?
Another thing I'm noticing is that my baffle is mounted at a sloping angle. Is this normal? If it is, is the rear of the post supposed to be cut at an angle so it presses flush with the back panel?
Thanks again.
Another thing I'm noticing is that my baffle is mounted at a sloping angle. Is this normal? If it is, is the rear of the post supposed to be cut at an angle so it presses flush with the back panel?
Thanks again.
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Re: fixing a 1968 straight cab - center post question
In my experience there is quite a bit of variability with regards to how much the center post is pressing into the back panel. I have owned and still have many vintage (66-73) cabs, and on some cabs the center post is flush and only just makes contact, whereas on some cabs it really pushes on the back panel and causes it to flex slightly. The padding at the end is also not consistent - some cabs have it, some don't. I have theorized that it was just a crude way to make a last fit, but that may not be correct. So some cabs got it, and some cabs didn't "need it.
JTM45 RS OT, 1973 18W, JTM45/100, JTM50, JMP50 1986, JMP100 "West Coast", AC15, AC30, BF Super Reverb, Boogie Mk 1, Hiwatt CP103, DR103
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Re: fixing a 1968 straight cab - center post question
The front baffle is supposed to be on an angle and the mating surface of the center post is cut on that same angle. This way it sits flat against both surfaces (front baffle & the rear panel). The baffle side of the center post is attached to a 4" x 4" 9-ply or 11-ply Baltic birch piece of wood and that is attached to the baffle using four screws.Leslie wrote:Thanks, everyone. Does there seem to be a consistency with the amount the posts jut in to the back panel? Or is it supposed to be flush with the back, as opposed to slightly pushing in to it?
Another thing I'm noticing is that my baffle is mounted at a sloping angle. Is this normal? If it is, is the rear of the post supposed to be cut at an angle so it presses flush with the back panel?
Thanks again.
- chrisom
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Re: fixing a 1968 straight cab - center post question
Straight cab baffles slope a bit. I had a crooked brace-post with my angled Laney 4x12 cab though. Turns out, the previous owner had re-installed the entire baffle board upside down (!), and all the screw holes still lined up around the baffle board. After I rotated the baffle 180 degrees, the post was straight back where it should be. Since yours is a straight cab, that might not have anything to do with it, though...Another thing I'm noticing is that my baffle is mounted at a sloping angle. Is this normal? If it is, is the rear of the post supposed to be cut at an angle so it presses flush with the back panel?
- wdelaney72
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Re: fixing a 1968 straight cab - center post question
I wouldn't overthink this. Actually length just needs to be enough to touch to make solid contact with rear panel.
Walter
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"There's no great thing in being a soloist. I think the hardest thing is to play together with a lot of people, and do it right." - Angus Young, 1984
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Re: fixing a 1968 straight cab - center post question
the best, most alive cab i've used had no pad. the post was direct contact and about 1/8" 'long' so it puts some pressure on the back. what this does is make the entire cab act as '1'. similar to what stripping vinyl does to sound. A stripped cab with this type center post is a great tone
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Re: fixing a 1968 straight cab - center post question
cabs differ. some are tight, others looser
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JTM45 RS OT JTM50 JMP50 1959/2203/34/39
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Super 100 amps: 1202-119 & 1202-84
JTM45 RS OT JTM50 JMP50 1959/2203/34/39