Agreed!! I’m looking forward to hearing it too. At this point there’s been enough subtle changes that I’m not sure how much better (or worse) it will sound lolneikeel wrote: ↑Thu Jul 09, 2020 4:14 amLooking forward to hearing it.
I have some spare 250k RS labelled CTS type pots (salvaged from Marshall PA amps), but I think shipping to your side of the pond might be silly for such a small pot. I doubt the pot in your pic is original as it is a pcb type, but you never know!
I tend to use all the original brass screws and nuts. Nothing needs to be tight enough to break any of them. I do, however always add internally serrated lockwashers on everything and nip those up.
I know when I got it, it was loaded with old tired tubes, old tired caps, old tired sockets, corroded switches, a dodgy impedance selector, and badly soldered stiff wiring.
Yeah I found an original brass nut and screw in a bag. I’ll replace the new screw and nut with the original and use a new lockwasher. I want to try to keep the outside look as original as possible minus the two bias pots on the corner. It’s why I didn’t drill any excess holes for the relay board and doubled up the thickness for the mount of it. The stiffness of the wire connectors will help to hold it in place.
I’m bummed on how much bench equipment I’ll need to fire it up to keep everything monitored.