Metropoulos Forum

neikeel wrote:Yes I see the issue, your OT is at least a 2" stack (normally used on earlier amps where that alignment was correct), this amp typically uses a 1 1/2" Dagnall OT.

Tricky one

I have it the right way now. It is really close to the tube. I'm wondering if there will be a heat issue? I plan on installing a CPU fan in there to keep down the temps live. Probably just turn it off when recording, unless I find a wicked silent one. I'm going to take pictures, don't laugh at my 6550 haha it's old and it's the only 6550 I had laying around. I"m still waiting for my Quad JJ's to come in. Do you think it would be foolish to try a ZERO loss FX loop on this bad boy? I noticed that Nik puts the FX loop in between the pre and power amp on the Chupa, I found layout pic btw. I'll post a pic in a second, got the choke on now too.

10H is good for metal - 3H for dirty, authentic plexi tones. 3H should be sufficient if it can handle the current draw. I like the marstran c1999 and the classictone 352-114 (250mA)

So if I back off the gain and only use a 3rd of the 10H (in theory) I should get plexi tones? If not that would be a sick mod. Two chokes that are controlled by switch. 3H and 10H! Because I love being clean, I play jazz, classical all the time but I love metal, Randy Rhoads is my hero. How do you post youtube videos? I cant get them to embed right.

Here is a jam I did a while back. Going to record some more when I get this amp going! I'm sick of digital and solid state. http://youtu.be/j85DeJusPZY" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Roe I love your tone on your recordings! I need that tube amp crunch! Very good work by the way the band is rocking!

I that that the zero loss loop takes a lot of beating.

Nik's on that amp is fairly rudimentary

Hope the amp rocks tho'

Wow anyone see any pics of the inside of some Dumbles that have been degooped? I'm thinking about doing my heater wires like he did. Looks like he did them last and the wires are shorter because it doesn't go hiding in the back. I really think I'm going to do Dumble's approach.

Old Fenders are like that. On my Allen Amps Sweet Spot (Princeton Reverb) Kit, the heater wiring is like that, too. David Allen recommends doing it this way.

Sweet Spot Kit:

Nice that looks very clean indeed! I'm just wondering how high off the chassis the wires should be. Dumble seems to give them some clearance, he also doesn't twist it all the way to the pins. I kind of did. Here is a top shot I'll get another one in to show you how far off the chassis they are.



Here is OT transformer installed the right way, check out the clearance I have between the front of the chassis and that tube.

I found a work around with my over sized OT. I'm going to just paint the back of it with black grill paint. It will make sure the coating doesn't crack over time from the hot tube. I found a similar story online with a guy having issue with his kt88s.

Also I just did a lot of work, I shall post pics in the morning. My back and neck are so stiff from looking down for so long! I need one of those amp workstations that is adjustable and swivels the chassis around. Anyone know the name of that awesome piece of equipment?

Got some more work done!

Been busy

Looking good..........

........although I will stick to doing my heaters in the Marshall way (on their better amps!)

neikeel wrote:Been busy

Looking good..........

........although I will stick to doing my heaters in the Marshall way (on their better amps!)

I hear what your saying neikeel. I believe that in the first marshalls they didn't even twist the wire! I just wanted to have the twists all the way up to the pins and this way none of the other wires are going to even touch the heater wires. I think it looks snazzy lol. The next marshall I build I will do the regular way to see if it makes a difference.

I'm trying to be busy haha! I want this thing to work!!

Finished wiring up the PT

Cant wait to hear clips

Any new progress??