Metropoulos Forum

I am going to be purchasing a metro board (the 50 watt lead) to convert my Laney AOR ProTube 30 to PTP and EL34 tubes. I'm also going to be getting the caps and pots.

George sent me a parts list from a 100 watt plexi kit as to what parts might well be required. Any suggestions on what parts I should probably purchase (because I will undoubtedly need) for the project? Things like wire, resistors, etc, which I would likely not be able to use again or it would be smart to replace.

Thanks,
Scott

Hey Scott, I'm sorry I'm not able to make a specific list of items for you. 6 months ago I would have wrote you a book. I just don't have that luxury these days. I feel bad about it, too.

As an example, it's Monday night (well, Tuesday morning) at 1:30 AM and I'm just finishing in the shop. I have some emails to reply to and then I'm hitting the sack.

I hope the 100 watt list will be a fair guideline and get you started.

George

George, would it be possible for me to get a copy of that parts list as well?

George,

No worries, I understand you are busy. I figured I'd throw it out to the forum since there are other people who have gone through projects similar to what I'm undergoing.

My sense is I'll just go ahead and order what I know I need, and place subsequent orders as needed. I just figured someone might give me some hints as to what I would undoubtedly need.

Right now, debating whether to purchase the pre-wired board, or the kit. I get the prewired board, I can be confident its been wired correctly, and not have to worry about screwing up the board with my newbie soldering skills. Of course, its an extra $80 and I don't get the satisfaction of doing "all" the wiring on my own.

Any thoughts on the above topics would be appreciated.

Scott

Anyone?

Are you changing your AOR to a Marshall circuit or just to make it PTP? IF you are just wanting to go PTP for the sake of PTP might I suggest just changing out the stock caps and resistors with a higher quality version of each componant first and see what that change does.
I wasn't too clear on what you were doing with your amp, it sounded like you are just wanting a PTP for your AOR circuit.

I did not have a completed plan when I first thought about the project; I believe I'm going to be converting mostly to the Marshall circuit, but perhaps retaining some of the parts that are there for ease of use and cost (transformers, etc.). I will definitely be replacing the filter caps.

I'm considering going whole hog and just using the chassis. I'm throwing out the questions for people's thoughts.

Thanks

I would just build a plexi kit and not bother converting the Laney. A local guy uses a AOR from time to time and I thought it was a pretty cool sounding amp.

Thanks but I dislike my amp and want to upgrade it. I've heard good things about the AOR 50 and 100 heads, but my AOR 30 combo is nothing special.

Even through my 2x12 cab, I still don't like the sound. Kind of that fizzy pre-amp gain.

Fizzy preamp gain XXXXXX

I share your anguish

Building one of George's boards is a rewarding experience.
I too was not up to snuff on my soldering skills and had never really did anything on that scale before but it was actually pretty easy once I got in the groove and it went smooth as silk. I had it built in 3 nights and could probably get it done quicker now but why rush something that fun

My soldering skills were sucking when i first started messing around with DIY stuff this year. I took electronics when i was in 11th grade, but it didn't take too long for me to recall my former soldering prowess. It feels good to yield a hot soldering iron and show a connection who's boss with a hot wad of 60/40 rosin core solder!!! ARRRRRRR!

Having the right soldering iron always helps as well.

I recommend getting a Weller WLC100. This is a soldering station with a temperature control and if you keep it set around 2-3, it will provide just the right amount of heat to give you good solder joints without melting wire insulation.

Also, don't let the iron melt the solder. Solder will only flow where there's enough heat to keep it melted. This means you use the iron to heat up the connection, and apply the solder to the connection itself. Always keep your iron tip clean as well.

Jon