I have a Metro PTP board and a new OT on order for my 1959 reissue. I'm wondering about a couple of things.
First, how many wires need to be soldered to the new board? I count about 38 in pictures and diagrams. Does that sound about right? Also, apparently the boards do not come with leads attached. If that's correct, can I reuse most or all of the existing leads to tube sockets, inputs, etc.? If not, are there any guidelines for wire to buy? Any certain gauge? Do any need to be shielded?
Secondly, for those of you who have replaced a reissue PCB with a Metro board, can you please share any things to watch out for? For example, instructions that are not clear, "don't do this", "remember to do this first", etc.
I'm trying to get prepared before everything arrives. Any advice or first-hand knowledge is much appreciated. Thanks!
PTP replacing PCB
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PTP replacing PCB
Last edited by toner on Sun Dec 31, 2006 4:06 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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you may be able to use some of the existing leads, but i'd just buy a bunch from metro to wire the whole amp. It's not real expensive and then you'd have all the same wiring for the whole amp. Leave the red and black heater wires on the tube sockets though. None of the stuff you'd buy needs to be shielded, unless you want to cascade V1 andor add a master volume. So just get the 20gauge pvc wire in all the various colors. maybe 4 ft of each and you'll be good to go. As far as attatching them to the new ptp board. You can either pre attach them from underneath the turret lugs and then install board and cut them to lenght as you wire them to their destination, or do as i do, and bolt the board in, and then fish them through the guide holes (if your board has them) and wind them around the turrets. This is how marshall did it and makes it easier if you want to yank a wire out later for some mod etc. If you do go the other rout and pre wire the wires underneath, be careful because when you go to solder in your parts, remember the whole turret will get hot and the solder that holds the wire in underneath may give way and alter that perfect solder joint you thought you had....and how will you know this since you can't see underneath the board??? this is why i use the traditional method since i don't want to be pressured, i just want grace and of course, don't RUSH. oops, wrong album cover. If your wires come loose, you won't have permanent waves.
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No, I'm leaving all the stock pots and jacks. After looking at more pics and diagrams, I think I can wire the whole thing using the existing wires. There may be a couple that I'll need to replace for more length but I doubt it.mightymike wrote:Are you replacing the pots and input jacks too?
If you're not, you might be able to pull it off without having to buy any wire, but you get the wire kit in the store it will get you every thing you need for a whole amp build. (it's about $16.00)
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I got my PTP board today and George was nice enough to include the full amp wiring kit at no charge. Thanks George!
So, I plan on re-wiring most of the amp. The heater wiring is very loosely twisted and sloppy (come on Marshall, how hard is twisting the wires the way they should be?
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The Heyboer OT is back-ordered but I look forward to sharing some sound clips when everything is done!

So, I plan on re-wiring most of the amp. The heater wiring is very loosely twisted and sloppy (come on Marshall, how hard is twisting the wires the way they should be?

The Heyboer OT is back-ordered but I look forward to sharing some sound clips when everything is done!