Solder

OnTheFritz · Post by **OnTheFritz** » Sun May 01, 2005 10:08 pm

What diameter solder do you guys have the best luck with on George's standard turrets. I started out with .032, and then switched to .050 and had better luck.
Is there an ideal dia?
I'm just using the standard "cone" shaped tip, 30 watt R. Shack iron.

Thanks,
Fritz

dynaman · Post by **dynaman** » Sun May 01, 2005 10:49 pm

30 watt is smoking. I use a 20 watt iron with .8 solder (thinner than .032) and have good luck.

Billy Batz · Post by **Billy Batz** » Sun May 01, 2005 11:57 pm

I use .022. Its a takes a few seconds to fill up a turret but its easy for a 20W iron.

OnTheFritz · Post by **OnTheFritz** » Mon May 02, 2005 11:09 am

I was having some problems w/the solder running all the way through the turret as opposed to filling it. Probably cause it was too hot? Guess I'll go with a 20 watter.

Thanks for the input.

Fritz

videocat23 · Post by **videocat23** » Mon May 02, 2005 12:20 pm

I used a 15W iron and got good results.

If you want to use your 30W, you will just need to be fast with it. If you're using a PTP with turrets, it will be very tough to ruin anything by over heating it. If you're working on a PCB, you need to be carefull not to heat the traces and hole too long. You run the chance of lifting a pad and then you're screwed.

dynaman · Post by **dynaman** » Mon May 02, 2005 4:38 pm

The solder will still run out of the turret with a 20 watter. Basically ya just gotta use a little finesse with the tip and solder. I prefer to solder a turret twice. I initially apply heat and just enough solder to close the opening. When this cools, the solder will appear concave, like a crater. I then apply a little more heat and just a dab of solder to fill the rest. If done properly, the second dab of solder will melt the top surface of initial solder just enough to fuse. You'll have to experiment with applying the iron tip in different places to heat what you want.

OnTheFritz · Post by **OnTheFritz** » Mon May 02, 2005 5:29 pm

That sounds like a good idea Dynaman, a lot of my joints look like a cupped puddle of resin.
Thanks for the reply Videocat.
I don't have a 15 watt, I've got a switchable 20/40, and a 30. Figured my bases were covered!

OnTheFritz · Post by **OnTheFritz** » Tue May 03, 2005 12:13 am

Dynaman,
You are the Man!
I went back and used some "finesse" and made some kick-ass joints.
Thanks for the input!
It would be kinda cool if there was a sticky "tips and tricks" for us newbies.

Fritz

SolidSnake8705 · Post by **SolidSnake8705** » Wed Aug 17, 2005 12:02 pm

I was wondering what type of solder is the best to use. Acid core or resin core? Diameter? Should the flux be washed off, and if so what should I use? Any comments would be great.

Post by **VelvetGeorge** » Wed Aug 17, 2005 12:30 pm

I like the lwo flux stuff for working on new parts. In .030"
My iron is a 30 or 35 watt Weller, WP 35 I think.

The flux should be fine, unless you get a lot of it on there. Then just scrape it off when it dries.

George

kd · Post by kd » Mon Sep 26, 2005 7:15 pm

SolidSnake8705,

Never use acid core solder on electrical circuits, it's for plummers.

Ken

Billy Batz · Post by **Billy Batz** » Mon Sep 26, 2005 8:17 pm

It coudl also be your not getting the component leads hot enough with the iron. The solder should flow onto them. Generally Ill fill the very top of the turret so that it looks like an upside down beer bottle. Then I put the solder on the tip directly to form a little bubble and then put the bubble on the turret for a perfect sphere cap on the turret. Your not suppossed to apply solder from the tip to the turret but in this case your only 'capping' it. Fender did this but they make a huge bubble. It gets messy.

I use a 35W iron. Its hot but when you get the feel of it you get to be like the video you see of factory women wiring board were they put the iron on the board then the solder and its all done in 1 second. Its not quite like that with turrets but if your quick you dont have to worry about excessive heat.

EDIT- I noticed dynamin said almost the sdame thing

Yeah what he said.

flemingmras · Post by **flemingmras** » Mon Sep 26, 2005 9:28 pm

OnTheFritz wrote:I went back and used some "finesse" and made some kick-ass joints.
Fritz

WOW!!! Good to see Dynaman and Fritz are keepin' it real and saying "TO HELL WITH BONGS!"

Jon

flemingmras · Post by **flemingmras** » Mon Sep 26, 2005 9:33 pm

No, in all seriousness...

Fritz, go to RS Electronics in Livonia and pick yourself up a Weller WLC100 soldering station. RS Electronics is on Schoolcraft, but on the south side of I-96 and it's between Farmington and Newburgh.

It comes with a 0-45 watt iron and it plugs into a unit with a sponge(for cleaning the tip) and a temperature control to adjust the heat of the iron. I've been using one of these for years and they kick ass. When you clean the tip, ALL of the solder comes off of it.

On these if you keep the temp control on 3 for most solder joints, you'll be fine. However for soldering to large metal objects where more heat is required(like the backs of pots and stuff), this iron will get hot enough for that with the temp control up full blast.

Get one of these and you'll be sittin' pretty. I use one to do all my electronic stuff, I've never had to change the tip on it in 2 years(although it's gettin' close to that time) and it will never fail you.

Jon

Billy Batz · Post by **Billy Batz** » Sat Oct 01, 2005 7:50 am

Ive been thinkin about one of those.