First post! Getting into amp building. Hot rodded Super Lead
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Re: First post! Getting into amp building. Hot rodded Super
On tube-town voltage and impedance selectors are 43 eur... Why do you need voltage switch? If you gonna play at your home, you just don't need this one. Solder the wires directly. Impedance selector - 21 eur just because it's a marshall style. You need a Rotary Switch 1 pol / 3 pos and the price is 6.30 eur. 43.30 or 6.30 eur?
Don't forget that Plexis and 1987s are non master volume models, so there is no distortion on low volumes...
Don't forget that Plexis and 1987s are non master volume models, so there is no distortion on low volumes...
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Re: First post! Getting into amp building. Hot rodded Super
I have an Ultimate Attenuator already, so for now no master volume.
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Re: First post! Getting into amp building. Hot rodded Super
IRON!
Choke = 40-18058
Plexi 100W OutputTransformer = 40-18026
100w PowerTransformer = 40-18053
Choke = 40-18058
Plexi 100W OutputTransformer = 40-18026
100w PowerTransformer = 40-18053
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Re: First post! Getting into amp building. Hot rodded Super
The Ceriatone order just shipped.
Should I continue on this thread or open a new one? Should I change the title?
Should I continue on this thread or open a new one? Should I change the title?
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Re: First post! Getting into amp building. Hot rodded Super
Keep this one going.
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Re: First post! Getting into amp building. Hot rodded Super
Nice blocks of Iron!
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Re: First post! Getting into amp building. Hot rodded Super
They look nice, I hope they'll sound great. I got the heavy duty mounting bracket for the PT but I think I'll get one for the OT too, they're almost the same weight.Nice blocks of Iron!
Cool.
I will update this thread then.
I've just ordered a matched JJ E34L quartet and x2 JJ-ECC83S-V1 from HotRox Uk. They'll arrive tomorrow.
The Ceriatone Kit (minus Iron) will arrive tomorrow too . (that was super fast shipping... thanx Nik).
The PTP board is already populated, with TAD caps and leads...
Now... I know that Ceriatone doesn't provide Instructions, just layout. So I downloaded the Metro 100W instructions PDF.
Obviously the ClassicTone wire colors are going to be different (and a lot of other wires I guess) so how do I match instructions-trannies-kit together?
The Iron specs are here:
PT http://www.classictone.net/40-18053.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
OT http://www.classictone.net/40-18026.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Choke http://www.classictone.net/40-18058.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Also, concerning the preamp tubes... I got the JJ just to start with (v2 and v3), but while playing around with my Rebel 30 I bought also some other preamp tube to experiment with:
Genalex Gold Lion 12AT7-ECC81 (to see if it made a difference in the PI )
Electro Harmonix 12AX7EH
Sovtek 12AX7LPS
TAD 7025 S
TAD 7025WA
What should I choose for V1 among these? But please gimme some pointers for the trannies wiring first... I don't wanna get stuck the very first day
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Re: First post! Getting into amp building. Hot rodded Super
Looking forward to this.
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Re: First post! Getting into amp building. Hot rodded Super
Not completly sure about what you want to know but i will give it a try:
http://www.drtube.com/schematics/marshall/1959u.gif" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Here's the schematic. In the datasheets from the trafo's there's all the info you need.
The primary:
The voltage from you wall goes if to the voltage selector and after that you connect the right connection from the voltage selector to the right voltage of the transformer.
The secondairy:
350V goes to the rectifier
98v is your bias voltage
6.3v is you heater voltage
OT Primary:
white and Red are the wires that go to your tubes. The blue one in the wire that goes to you powersection.
OT Secondary:
Black one is the common the other wires go to the impedance selector
Choke:
doesn't matter how you connect it. It's kinda like a resistor.
http://www.drtube.com/schematics/marshall/1959u.gif" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Here's the schematic. In the datasheets from the trafo's there's all the info you need.
The primary:
The voltage from you wall goes if to the voltage selector and after that you connect the right connection from the voltage selector to the right voltage of the transformer.
The secondairy:
350V goes to the rectifier
98v is your bias voltage
6.3v is you heater voltage
OT Primary:
white and Red are the wires that go to your tubes. The blue one in the wire that goes to you powersection.
OT Secondary:
Black one is the common the other wires go to the impedance selector
Choke:
doesn't matter how you connect it. It's kinda like a resistor.
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Re: First post! Getting into amp building. Hot rodded Super
Are you sure? Isn't white the center tap wire? It says to connect it to the choke and HTfuse... unless you meant that by saying 'power section'.Thiez wrote: OT Primary:
white and Red are the wires that go to your tubes. The blue one in the wire that goes to you powersection.
In the Metro instructions, the C1998 OT has Red-Brown connected to the power tubes. Shouldn't I use blue and red in my case then?
Should I replace 'brown' with 'blue'? Is the order relevant?
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Re: First post! Getting into amp building. Hot rodded Super
Hm i tought the blue one was the centertap because of the dot on the datasheet. But if i were you i would meassure it. If you get an ohm meter you can meassure between the wires. between centertap and other wire you measure half the value of the outer two wires.fretwizard wrote:Are you sure? Isn't white the center tap wire? It says to connect it to the choke and HTfuse... unless you meant that by saying 'power section'.Thiez wrote: OT Primary:
white and Red are the wires that go to your tubes. The blue one in the wire that goes to you powersection.
In the Metro instructions, the C1998 OT has Red-Brown connected to the power tubes. Shouldn't I use blue and red in my case then?
Should I replace 'brown' with 'blue'? Is the order relevant?
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Re: First post! Getting into amp building. Hot rodded Super
I started yesterday. Pics coming soon!
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Re: First post! Getting into amp building. Hot rodded Super
Got the primary OT wiring clear for youself?
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Re: First post! Getting into amp building. Hot rodded Super
Yeah I measured the winding resistance and the white wire is definitely the center tap, as per diagram.Thiez wrote:Got the primary OT wiring clear for youself?
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Re: First post! Getting into amp building. Hot rodded Super
Alright. I managed to follow the Metro Kit manual up to the step just before the power supply harness.
Plus, Ceriatone is changing the Plexi 100 kit:
No voltage selector.
100w/50w Pentode/Triode Switch.
External Bias pot and bias jacks.
Can caps now are all 50+50, like the Metro kit I guess. The F1 cap is on the board so there's no hole in the chassis but I haven't checked if the ground wiring has changed.
It took me a while since I had to check the differences often as I went through the steps.
The turret board has leads soldered already, so from now on I'll have to check what's connected to what and see If I need to add wires. I don't wanna waste it, just in case I make mistakes.
Also Nik sent me the new layout, where the can caps are 32+32 on F2/F3, 50+50 on F4/F5, and the wires coming off the turret board don't match the new layout, the actually look like the old one. I'm sending him emails and pics.
They must be in the process of updating the products 'cause officially this is not showing on the website.
Following with pics...
Plus, Ceriatone is changing the Plexi 100 kit:
No voltage selector.
100w/50w Pentode/Triode Switch.
External Bias pot and bias jacks.
Can caps now are all 50+50, like the Metro kit I guess. The F1 cap is on the board so there's no hole in the chassis but I haven't checked if the ground wiring has changed.
It took me a while since I had to check the differences often as I went through the steps.
The turret board has leads soldered already, so from now on I'll have to check what's connected to what and see If I need to add wires. I don't wanna waste it, just in case I make mistakes.
Also Nik sent me the new layout, where the can caps are 32+32 on F2/F3, 50+50 on F4/F5, and the wires coming off the turret board don't match the new layout, the actually look like the old one. I'm sending him emails and pics.
They must be in the process of updating the products 'cause officially this is not showing on the website.
Following with pics...