S.I.R. 100W SuperLead Schematic pt. II

[gluke]

Added a bright cap. Now the gain level is pretty much back to the same as it was earlier with EL34 just a lot more open and brighter sounding.

Nightrain with bright cap
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i_EZIsmPPpA

[gluke]

And now it also does this:

Paradise lick:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2DeljuhyhIg

[CoffeeTones]

That's good. More middle ground for recorded / natural tone. Probably could play with small settings adjustments, or that bright cap to get more of the recorded tone, but it's likely more enjoyable where it's at as far as tweaking goes. I like an amp to be fun, and feel good under the fingers when playing at home. Stiff and thin amps don't usually satisfy that. Which bright cap and presence circuit did you go with?

[Unique]

You could always try just turning the bass to 0 and see what happens. If you ever look at pics of #34 you'll see the bass knob at zero in some of them. If he does it once, you can probably bet he's done it other times. Doing this in the studio can sometimes save your track from having a HP filter slapped on it and keep your tone more in tact. Either way, when your rolling off bass, your sending that energy to other areas of the frequency spectrum, slightly boosting other frequency ranges.

[gluke]

Which bright cap and presence circuit did you go with?

It is the stock 5n back in there.... It is a really good sounding cap this original one. Presence has always been .1.

[gluke]

You could always try just turning the bass to 0 and see what happens. If you ever look at pics of #34 you'll see the bass knob at zero in some of them. If he does it once, you can probably bet he's done it other times. Doing this in the studio can sometimes save your track from having a HP filter slapped on it and keep your tone more in tact. Either way, when your rolling off bass, your sending that energy to other areas of the frequency spectrum, slightly boosting other frequency ranges.

I had to spend some time to get used to these kind of settings in the first place. I usually set the Presence a 3 and bass at 2-ish, right at that point where the bass just comes in. For this I kept everything on 6 except for the two gain pots throughout just to have comparable clips. Was way to bright for my ears to being with, but now I'm kinda used to it. At no point did I attempt to dial it in, so this is just general impression of the overall tone and gain level. Will try to turn down the bass and see what happens.

[gluke]

I did measure the gain pot just to see where it was at and I found that at around 8 which is just about the sweet spot you are just approx. 500k. Which means that at this setting the bright cap will be seeing 490-500k......

[gluke]

From yesterday with those same settings:

SCOM
https://youtu.be/rpXdMc_jTgk

[CoffeeTones]

I did measure the gain pot just to see where it was at and I found that at around 8 which is just about the sweet spot you are just approx. 500k. Which means that at this setting the bright cap will be seeing 490-500k......

Yeah, that's my reasoning of tuning the bright cap to the amount of volume / gain that is useable. It's an easy game, but easy to get squeals when clipping caps in the circuit. They can squeal like mad with clips and no problems when soldered in. Same for a lot of components, especially if the clip leads are long. Often the cap //470k before the pot can be better, because the cap // changing pot value effect is negated. You can lower the 470k resistor value to keep the bass from getting thin. 220k //.001uF or .0022uF works good.

[gluke]

Yeah, that's my reasoning of tuning the bright cap to the amount of volume / gain that is useable. It's an easy game, but easy to get squeals when clipping caps in the circuit. They can squeal like mad with clips and no problems when soldered in. Same for a lot of components, especially if the clip leads are long. Often the cap //470k before the pot can be better, because the cap // changing pot value effect is negated. You can lower the 470k resistor value to keep the bass from getting thin. 220k //.001uF or .0022uF works good.

Yes, but with it on the pot you can sort of dial the cap in/out with the pot. If you want you can max gain 2 and dial back gain 1 then overall gain is similar but the bright cap is out of the curcuit and you get a darker woodier tone with similar gain. If you fix it then you get more of a one tone amp, if you know what I mean?

I'm leaning heavily towards concluding that Duke's old comments were right, all the stuff you see in #34 is there to try to mimic the overall tonality of #36 in a 2203 type curcuit. The #36 is something different. And I think you were right on both going to 2n2 and adding back a bright cap so thank you for the input! If you want the details shoot me a PM and I'll take you through it.

[dukeamps]

Nice to see a bit of action here again

[gluke]

Nice to see a bit of action here again

It’s all your fault Sir...... some of us are just a little late to the party. I took your gospel and crammed it into my amp. Turned out quite nice.

[dukeamps]

Nice to see a bit of action here again

It’s all your fault Sir...... some of us are just a little late to the party. I took your gospel and crammed it into my amp. Turned out quite nice.

That's nice, your clips are quite tasty, your spec is probably right.
Anyways for anyone wanting this tone do this,
2k7.68u 22u 470k500p 5n shield trick
2k7.68u 2200p or 22u coupling cap, no bright
10k
820
500p33k
100k .68u 4ohm
that should get you close

[gluke]

Even more in your face...

Nightrain
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sE2GKl8QCBg

[Unique]

That sounds pretty good, and very close, if not there. Like all the samples here, it's hard to determine how close due to hearing them through a computer. But all of the character sounds appear to be there. Congrats!