A few of my DIY pedals

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scottosan
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A few of my DIY pedals

Post by scottosan » Wed Apr 20, 2005 9:01 pm

A few of my DIY pedals. I even etch my own PCB boards.


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tonejones
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Post by tonejones » Thu Apr 21, 2005 12:18 am

Those look very sweet!!!!
Let's get going, 'cause there's too much music, too little time!!!!

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Country Boy Shane
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Post by Country Boy Shane » Thu Apr 21, 2005 11:20 am

Hat's off to you. You are a pedal guru!
Just Feel it MAN! -Shane Gorski "Country Boy Shane"

www.flickr.com/photos/shanegorski

gnugear
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Post by gnugear » Thu Apr 21, 2005 1:00 pm

very nice!! I'm building a bunch of pedals myself. How did you etch the board?
Gear:
'74 Super Lead rebuilt with '68 metro board and old stock mustards.
'73 Super Lead
'68 Basketweave with pre rola G12Ms
'70 Basketweave

Guest

Post by Guest » Thu Apr 21, 2005 2:59 pm

gnugear wrote:very nice!! I'm building a bunch of pedals myself. How did you etch the board?
1.You can buy 1 sided copper clad board, cleaned with fine steel wool and detergent.

2. Next you need toner transfer paper(available at mouser) or press n' peel blue(available at smallbearelec.com).

3. Use a "laser jet" inkjet will not work, to print the reversed image onto the toner tranfer paper.

4. Use a household iron set at "polyester" and iron the image onto the cleaned copper board. This usually takes some practice to perfect it but it takes several minutes. Drop the board and paper into water and a the paper with seperate from the board leaving the toner images on the copper clad. You may need to use a permanent marker to touch up the image.

5. Drop the imaged boards into a shallow plastic dish and Use Feric acid or equivelent (from MG Chemicals) to etch away the unprotected copper.

I beleive there is still a tutorial at www.tonepad.com somewhere.

gnugear
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Post by gnugear » Thu Apr 21, 2005 8:51 pm

Wow, it sounds dangerous ... I like it.

Now I can add acid to my list of things to freak my wife out.
Gear:
'74 Super Lead rebuilt with '68 metro board and old stock mustards.
'73 Super Lead
'68 Basketweave with pre rola G12Ms
'70 Basketweave

Guest

Post by Guest » Thu Apr 21, 2005 10:00 pm

gnugear wrote:Wow, it sounds dangerous ... I like it.

Now I can add acid to my list of things to freak my wife out.
The wierd thing is it eats through copper, but it doesn't burn your skin

Dai H.
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Post by Dai H. » Thu Apr 21, 2005 11:48 pm

that stuff is very hazardous and should be dealt with accordingly. Even giving the hint that you can let it get on your skin is irresponsible at best.
III. Etching the Board

The copper not masked by the transferred image will be removed by etching in a heated Ferric Chloride (FeCl3)
solution. Before using the Ferric Chloride solution it is important to fully understand the associated health hazards
and safety precautions.

Potential Health Hazards
- Inhalation of concentrated vapors or mist may cause irritation of the respiratory tract.
- Ingestion may cause severe liver and/or kidney damage, and may be fatal.
- Contact with liquid, mist, or vapor can cause immediate irritation or corrosive burns to
all human tissue.
Severity is generally determined by the concentration of the solution
and duration of exposure.
- Contact with eyes may cause irritation, tearing and eye tissue discoloration, and may
result in permanent visual loss unless removed quickly by thorough irrigation with water.

Safety Precautions
- Handle under a fume hood whenever possible.
- Work with the fume hood splash guard as low as possible. This improves the effectiveness
of the fume hood ventilation as well as providing protection from splashed solution.
- Wear rubber gloves and eye protection whenever handling solution.
- Ferric Chloride will stain anything that it contacts. You may want to wear an apron or lab
coat to protect clothing.
http://mitghmr.spd.louisville.edu/lutz/ ... cbsop.html

Zoso
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Just the numbers in order: 7
Location: Lewisburg, WV

Post by Zoso » Fri Apr 22, 2005 12:16 am

Nice work on the pedals. I've done a couple simple circuits with a sharpie, but unfortunately I don't have a laser jet printer to do more complex ones. Could you use a copying machine, I wonder?
What good is my wisdom
When there are no words to say
How I feel everday ?

Guest

Post by Guest » Fri Apr 22, 2005 7:58 am

Zoso wrote:Nice work on the pedals. I've done a couple simple circuits with a sharpie, but unfortunately I don't have a laser jet printer to do more complex ones. Could you use a copying machine, I wonder?
Yes, a cfopy machine will work.

Guest

Post by Guest » Fri Apr 22, 2005 7:58 am

Zoso wrote:Nice work on the pedals. I've done a couple simple circuits with a sharpie, but unfortunately I don't have a laser jet printer to do more complex ones. Could you use a copying machine, I wonder?
Yes, a cfopy machine will work.

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Guitarcrazy
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Post by Guitarcrazy » Fri Apr 22, 2005 1:01 pm

Dai H. wrote:that stuff is very hazardous and should be dealt with accordingly. Even giving the hint that you can let it get on your skin is irresponsible at best.
III. Etching the Board

The copper not masked by the transferred image will be removed by etching in a heated Ferric Chloride (FeCl3)
solution. Before using the Ferric Chloride solution it is important to fully understand the associated health hazards
and safety precautions.

Potential Health Hazards
- Inhalation of concentrated vapors or mist may cause irritation of the respiratory tract.
- Ingestion may cause severe liver and/or kidney damage, and may be fatal.
- Contact with liquid, mist, or vapor can cause immediate irritation or corrosive burns to
all human tissue.
Severity is generally determined by the concentration of the solution
and duration of exposure.
- Contact with eyes may cause irritation, tearing and eye tissue discoloration, and may
result in permanent visual loss unless removed quickly by thorough irrigation with water.

Safety Precautions
- Handle under a fume hood whenever possible.
- Work with the fume hood splash guard as low as possible. This improves the effectiveness
of the fume hood ventilation as well as providing protection from splashed solution.
- Wear rubber gloves and eye protection whenever handling solution.
- Ferric Chloride will stain anything that it contacts. You may want to wear an apron or lab
coat to protect clothing.
http://mitghmr.spd.louisville.edu/lutz/ ... cbsop.html
Absolutely correct! If any of you out there have ever worked in a plating shop, you'll understand the term 'chrome sore'. You absolutely do not want to handle this stuff without gloves. Especially if you have any wounds (scrapes, etc) on your hands. That stuff has the tendancy to work it's way inside (if you get my meaning), and then it slowly (underneath the scab ...) starts eating away at your skin.

Breathing it can be a health hazard too (nose bleeds anyone?).

DonM
Get thee out thy Dremel, and part the turrets ...
'88 Marshall Superlead Reissue ('69 Metro)
'60's Univox U202R (2x6973's)
'61 Gibson GA5T (6BM8 version)
'04 FrankenMarshall 18 (clone by me)
'04 ECL86/EF83 SE Amp (by me)

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Guitarcrazy
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Post by Guitarcrazy » Fri Apr 22, 2005 1:02 pm

By the way, great looking pedals :wink:

I wish mine came out looking that nice ... guess I need to actually spend some money on the enclosures :lol:

DonM
Get thee out thy Dremel, and part the turrets ...
'88 Marshall Superlead Reissue ('69 Metro)
'60's Univox U202R (2x6973's)
'61 Gibson GA5T (6BM8 version)
'04 FrankenMarshall 18 (clone by me)
'04 ECL86/EF83 SE Amp (by me)

Trem Abuser
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Posts: 162
Joined: Fri Oct 08, 2004 10:14 pm

Post by Trem Abuser » Thu Apr 28, 2005 7:38 pm

Nice job scottosan.

How do you make those labels?

Brent SP

Post by Brent SP » Mon May 09, 2005 12:12 pm

Scott how/where did you get your logos? Stickers with sprayed clear coat?

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