Component board questions on incoming JTM45 kit

[ScottyWatty]

Hi Gents,
I ordered my JTM45 from Fido last week and am looking forward to getting started on it as soon as I get it. I haven't built an amp kit since 1976 (Dynaco) so please go easy on me!

A couple of questions:

1.) What type component board does the kit come with?
The solid one or the perforated one (holes)?
2.) I believe it comes with turrets instead of eyelets. Are the turrets split or not?

I am getting my tools together. Is a 25watt Weller suitable? I have the the "flathead" type tip. Will that work or should I get a pencil tip type?
I can't remember what I used on my last, long-ago amp soldering job.

Any tips to get me started right? Other than that, I'll just build it as nicely as I can according to the instructions. I have the LarMar PPIMV, Sozo caps and the Allen-Bradley CC resistor upgrades coming to. I decided to go with the standard Metroamp transformers.

I perform with an ES-335 and a Tele. Am I on track with one of the three cabs?

1.) Avatar 2x12 with 2 G12H-65's.
2.) Avatar 2x12 with Gold+G12H-30 Hellatone.
3.) Southbay 2x12 with H75+M75.

I would sure appreciate your thoughts on the speaker/cab choice as I want to nail it the first time. We mic our cabs.

Thanks guys, and I'm looking forward to learning all I can from you as I progress one my first amp in a very long time! Thanks to Fido for guiding me in my amp choice and options!

[spaceace76]

First off, welcome to the forum, and best of luck with your kit! Sounds like you've done your research!

As for your questions:
1. It is the solid style, and
2. turrets are not split

a 25 watt will work, but something with a little more wattage would make things easier on you. many people here use the "high heat, short time" method, and the opposite method may get you into trouble with cold joints. I'd say a 40 or even 60 watt., would be better. A larger tip is preferable.

I'm betting the Southbay or the Avatar with the Gold would both be great choices

[MBD115]

I agree with space on the solder gun. I did my kit with a 20/40 watt soldering station and it did ok but I used the 40 watt setting all the time. It had a pencil tip. Keep the tip clean and tinned. Mine has a sponge I wet with water and wipe it off after every joint. A burnt tip will mess up your joint.

My AB/CC resistors needed cleaned. The leads were tarnished from age. It is very important you clean them before installing/soldering. I used a combination of fine grit emery cloth and steel wool. Get them shiny and they solder good.

I also sanded the back of my pots before soldering. I used my fine grit emery cloth on them. Unsanded they don't solder good, where a little sanding on them makes for an easy job. I only sanded where I intended to solder, not the whole back of them.

Welcome to the forum.

[demonufo]

My AB/CC resistors needed cleaned. The leads were tarnished from age. It is very important you clean them before installing/soldering. I used a combination of fine grit emery cloth and steel wool. Get them shiny and they solder good.

Actually, they need more than just cleaning. The Allen Bradley's leads are coated, and the coating needs stripping back before these can be soldered properly, or they won't make a good contact.

[SoK66]

I've had fine results using a 25w Weller pencil (don't use a gun!) with a chisel tip. A pointed tip can't spread the heat enough with a lower watt iron. The benefit is less chance of overheating components and a smoother solder flow.

[myfoot]

My AB/CC resistors needed cleaned. The leads were tarnished from age. It is very important you clean them before installing/soldering. I used a combination of fine grit emery cloth and steel wool. Get them shiny and they solder good.

Actually, they need more than just cleaning. The Allen Bradley's leads are coated, and the coating needs stripping back before these can be soldered properly, or they won't make a good contact.

I actually used a small knife and scraped as I turned the resistors. A little work but haven't had any problems on 3 kits now doing it that way.

[ScottyWatty]

I'm a little late getting back on this post, but I ended up buying a Hakko 936-12 and couldn't be happier with the quality and performance.

Also, on those NOS leads, I used #0000 Steel wool and it worked perfectly to clean the leads down to pure metal.

[arledgsc]

I've had fine results using a 25w Weller pencil (don't use a gun!) with a chisel tip. A pointed tip can't spread the heat enough with a lower watt iron. The benefit is less chance of overheating components and a smoother solder flow.

+1. With a little practice this is all you really need for these kits.