Metropoulos Forum

I was just looking at the MM site and noticed they now have a 100 watt size OT for a 50 watt. What are the differences or pro's and con's of doing this. I believe that Mojave amps use a 100 watt OT in their 50 watt model. Opinions please?

Also, I was reading a few posts concerning Mercury's and just wanted to thrown my two cents in. I installed a 050JM-SL in my 1987S that I used to have and it was an excellent choice. It had great cleans and a very smooth break up with plenty of dynamics. On a side note, the self-leads model was recommended by Patrick but in a chat with Sergio a few months later he told me that the SL model would increase the mids. I still liked it, but it just goes to show you how one players dream tone is another ones nightmare.

Thanks all,

Ivabiggun

Hi,

It seems that Mojave amps do that. Search the thread of mojave amps here; it seems the amp pumps out a big sound, similar to the 100 watts version.

The problem in mojave is you loose the 4 ohm output, if i remember right..

Basically you get a transformer with a much bigger core, which makes it harder to saturate. This can be a good thing depending on what you're going for.

As far as impedances go, the 4/8/16 ohm taps become 8/16/32 ohm taps so yes you do lose the 4 ohm output.

Thank you for the replies. I am going for a cleaner amp with more headroom. A used to have a 1987S metal panel RI but I had to sell it because of financial issues. It had a Mercury OJ50M-SL and W---r 50/50 cap cans in it. I bought those a few years ago before the price doubled. Those resistors are 1%/1watt/750V metal film from PRP. I know some say that mf resistors don't sound warm and etc., but these sounded great to my ears. I previously had cf in there and I think the metal's sounded better. Perhaps better for metal. It had a split cathode with a .68 bypass on the second gain stage, all Sozo caps and a pair of NOS Tesla EL34's and Tung-Sol ri 12AX7's. It had the best tone and would stay clean up till about half way on the volumes. I also jumpered the inputs internally with shielded wire courtesy of George. I use to play 50's and 60's pop and r&b with that thing. Oh well, you can't eat an amplifier.

I just remembered that this is a photo of when it was a super bass. I changed it back to a lead, removed the 330uf cap from the 2nd gain stage and added a .68. When I installed the self-leads OT I didn't know that you had to remove the varnish from the wires. No matter how hot I set the iron it wouldn't take solder until I found out you had to use nail polish remover on the wires. DOH!!

Ivabiggun