Les Paul volume pot question

[toner]

Several years ago I wired my LP to use just one volume pot and no tone controls. I really prefer it this way and never use tone pots on any guitars. I will probably get a 500k RS "superpot" for it soon because I also need a new pot for one of my strats anyway.

Are there any tone or volume issues with using only one pot on a Les Paul (loading, capacitance, volume taper, etc.)? Is there any need for a different value pot or anything special to keep the "stock" tone?

Sorry for the simple question! I know more about amps than guitar electronics. Thanks.

[JD]

Nope, a single vol pot is about as simple as it gets and works fine. 500K audio (or RS superpot) for standard output humbuckers seems to be a very popular value.

[fillmore nyc]

Several years ago I wired my LP to use just one volume pot and no tone controls. I really prefer it this way and never use tone pots on any guitars. I will probably get a 500k RS "superpot" for it soon because I also need a new pot for one of my strats anyway.

Are there any tone or volume issues with using only one pot on a Les Paul (loading, capacitance, volume taper, etc.)? Is there any need for a different value pot or anything special to keep the "stock" tone?

Sorry for the simple question! I know more about amps than guitar electronics. Thanks.

BTW, a higher resistance pot will give the axe somewhat of a brighter sound. A 250k wont be as bright as a 500k, or a 1meg pot, because the higher resistance will not allow high frequencies to pass thru to the ground lug as easily as a lower resistance pot will. Another cool trick is to wire the 3 way switch directly to the hot lug of the jack, and connect the volume pot "in parallel", also connected to the hot lug of the jack, but not connected to anything else, except ground. It works similar to a tone control, without a capacitor. Looking at the back (can side) of the pot, the left lug is grounded to the backside of the pot can, the middle lug is wired to the hot lug of the jack, and the right lug is not connected to anything. When the pot is turned fully counterclockwise, the signal will seek the easiest path to ground (thru the pot) and the guitar will turn off. When the pot is turned fully clockwise (full volume), it is essentially removed from the circuit completely, and the 3 way switch (in the case of a LP) is wired straight to the jack. Its the strongest signal possible from any given pickup, with the exception having no volume control at all, and wiring everything straight to the jack. This little "trick" is sensitive to the taper and value of the pot used. I havent done this one in a while, but if memory serves, a 1 meg audio taper pot works better than a linear taper pot. Good luck!!!

[StuntDouble]

Filmore, I tried this wiring setup that you described there and I thought it was pretty cool; for lack of a better way to put it, there just seemed to be more conectivity b/w the hands, pups and amp. However, those icepick highs are a killer. I tried soldering resistors b/w the 2 outside lugs but the more I went back down towards 500 Kohm, the more I seemed to loose something in the sound that I liked. I sold my 10 band EQ a while back and I wish I hadn't because I'd like to try using it to roll off the highs and boost the mids. I'm wondering if VH used that stong frown curve on his EQ for this reason. I've tried that EQ setting w/ the standard 500Kohm pots setup in my hamer before and it just made everything muddy sounding. I'm wondering if the use of the EQ settings wasn't to counteract the brightness of the low resistance pots. Has anybody tried this?