Keeping Vintage 6 Screw Trem in tune

[Tone Slinger]

That would be cool, but as long as you bore out the part of the plates holes where the string is coming up at the saddles, you should be ok.I use some lube there depending on the block,but if you do the right bore, the string misses the plate altogather. I like the 'metal on metal' at the bridge for tone. The most difficult part,imo,is getting the 6 screws 'beveled'(refer to the Frudua vids) . To keep the vintage look is important,but I also have different types of mounting screws that I use sometimes that dont need any after market mods. It depends on whats important,cosmetically,as to what I use.

[rgorke]

So, are you guys saying that you drill out the block so there is very little string in the block?

Well, I think I disagree that that would be a tuning issue. It seems like there would be other factors contributing to tuning stability than the length of string in the block: nut, springs, screws too tight, not tight enough, string trees, etc. I would argue that you are losing some tone benefits by doing that.

[vanhalen5150]

I get the decreased string length but the strings are still the same legth across the nut. I would think the string through the nut and how they are attached to the tunning pegs would make the biggest difference.

[Tone Slinger]

The distance from the friction point of the string at the saddle to where the ball end (or bullet end in my case) is,is VERY important. The longer the distance is, the MORE room you have for error (binding,tighter or looser) .No matter how you set the springs,if there is too much length here (saddle to ball end),you will lose your tuning. If set up to 'just' use the bar, you can be alright stock.But we all know what a left hand bend will do to that set up(flat pitch, resulting in the need to dip/dive the bar to'reset' the tuning). That is what Ed did, and he did alright with it,but he CONSTANTLY had to dip the bar (which, as a result,influenced his whole style).I initially thought that the tone would suffer in some way by drilling the block,but found no difference. The metal in the block makes the difference.If it is too soft pot metal, it will not have the proper attack, volume and resonance. The reissue Fender and the Callaham are the most accurate to vintage in the metal type/gauge.I've compared stock vs. modded units, and found no difference in tone/sound.
I like locking tuners (staggered Sperzel's). Sharpness in pitch is your enemy concerning the distance from the nut to the tuners, so even with a modified block, this needs addressed. I have tried and tried to get the same results from standard tuning keys,but to no avail . The locking tuners are superior.I also find that if you use a teflon infused nut (graphtech)that is cut correctly (see Frudua video) you alleviate virtually all friction, which will result in binding/sharp pitch. You can whammy AND left hand bend,and get great results with the proper modiication and set up. Remember to lube ALL contact/friction points with nut sauce (or comparable prouct).I hope this helps,if anyone needs anymore info,pm me or check out Frudua's vids. I do the mods if anyone is interested.

[rgorke]

Here is another part we aren't looking at, the type of "ball end" of the string.

Look at this picture..

Fender_Bullet-end.jpg

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If the end is like a bullet it fits in there nice and snuggly and happy, but the ball end that we usually see can get caught and knocked out of tune.

[vanhalen5150]

The old Fender trems I dont think are drilled that deep. I know mine isnt.

[Tone Slinger]

The pure nickel bullet end strings cost more (have yall checked the prices lately ), but are my fav's. I initially had my block drilled as deep as I could get it (1/16th from exit), to approximate a floyds having NO distance there. It works great,but I have to use bullet end strings, cause the rewrap on ball ends pretty much hit my saddles. I have done other blocks an 8th, 2 8th's etc, and get the same results. Ball end 150's are cheaper than thier bullet end equivalent, so I recommend drilling to about 2/8ths to no more than 5/16ths from the blocks exit (to the plate). That will give you enough room so that even if you have a saddle adjusted all the way back, you still have cleared the rewrap. Even on my main strat (My Tokai) I can get away with a ball end on my high E spot. With the deeper block entry holes, I find no difference in performance from the Bullet to ball end strings.I have a modded Gotoh on my KnE.