1959 2013 LP Build

[vanhalen5150]

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[vanhalen5150]

Sanded and time to route the top.

[vanhalen5150]

But before we do that....

[vanhalen5150]

Do not use cheap router bits either. They cause burnout on your wood. Some of the templates I elevate because the bearing doesnt contact the template. I use double sided carpet tape for all the templates. I also use screws where the PU routes go if I have to for stabilization.

The wire routing to the switch hole is supposed to be a bit off centered. That way the wires are not coming directly under the switch. There is still an angle in the control cavity to match the top angle to be done yet.

[vanhalen5150]

I'll fill in some details on this stuff later as well. Lot of trial and error on some stuff trying to figure out the best way to do things. I leave about 1/16" of the Mahog in the control cavity and 3/16" in the switch.

To do the cover plate routes I used some scrap wood to raise the template up so the bearing would run correctly for the depth. With a pin router you dont have to do this. Perhaps constructing an overhead pin router is a project as well.

[vanhalen5150]

Ok. Trace out where my PUs are going, so I can use screws for some of the templates. Because of where the bearing sits you may have to elevate with some mdf scraps. Use the center line of the 2 maple pieces from here on for all your templates.

[vanhalen5150]

Start from the outside edge first. Each template is routered up 1/16th. I trimed some of the outside edge first because it sits pretty far off the templated edge. My square is 1/16' thick so I use that as a depth measurment.

Dont worry about the rough edges, these all get sanded down. You just need them centered. I use double faced tape on some and screws/scrap under template on others. It just depends on where my bearing sits.

[vanhalen5150]

So, you should get something like this. I did a bit of sanding and scraping on the bottom but I still have to route the neck plane and PU planes before I do much more.

[vanhalen5150]

The outter edge is flat right now, but I add a 1/16' recurve into the maple that gives the classic 59 look. I left about 3-4/16" of maple on that outside edge for this reason. The binding will cover the outter edge.

[6burgh]

Where did you get your templates for this one? Or did you make them yourself? I'm loving this thread...

[vanhalen5150]

Where did you get your templates for this one? Or did you make them yourself? I'm loving this thread...

I'm using the Tom Bartlett plans. Highy recomended. Templates dont show everything.Im using 2 different sets of templates actually and adjusting small details as I go along. For example, I like deep control cavities so mine a are a little deeper. the overall top is also a little thicker as you can see the top routing is a little higher than the other 1/16''s. Im going to sand that down after checking the neck plane and bridge angle. Its just better to have the extra wood for good string height. If your too low on the top, you'll have high action, or a high bridge combo. The top should be 5/8"s but I started mine with just under 1". Gives me lots of room for mistakes!

I have Toms body templates: http://www.bartlettwoodworking.com/body/Templates.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

And these ones: http://www.guitarbuildingtemplates.com/ ... Family.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

They are fairly similar. The second set has templates for the neck as well which is great.

I wouldn't even attemp this with out the 1:1 scale Bartlett plans though. Its just so easy to take an exact caliper measurement and be sure. I think he sells them for $20.

this is Toms website: http://www.bartlettwoodworking.com/body.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Great guy that makes great guitars, not just LP copies.

[vanhalen5150]

Oh yeah, when I replaced the top I used Tight Bond wood glue instead of the hide glue. It seems to work well for the top. Actually easier to work with than the hide glue. Ill use hide glue on the neck though.

[somethin'else]

Righteous!

[vanhalen5150]

MDF board, 1.5" by 2.5" oak pieces, and a hinge. All from HomeRepo. About $30. Make a hinged square with a mdf bottom. Make a second square and hinge at front. Bottom square is laying on 2.5" side. Top square is on 1.5" side.

[vanhalen5150]

MDF board. 1.5" by 2.5" oak strips. Long hinge from Homee-Dee's. MDf base, square bottom is on 2.5" side. Top square is on 1.5" side. Hinge front. This jig is for cutting acutate plane angles. Neck is 4.4 degrees and PU is 1.2 degrees.