My New Marshall 1973 50w Lead - PICS!

MacGaden · Post by **MacGaden** » Fri Nov 24, 2006 6:46 am

May I suggest this:

http://store.metroamp.com/product_info. ... cts_id=281

Courtesy of out host, George ?

I think that the snubber caps more or less exploded when the PT died, leaving all that gunk in your amp. I was wondering why sparks and arching could leave traces like that.

I still think you should try to fix it yourself. With a little caution, and a lesson on how to discharge caps, it

neikeel · Post by **neikeel** » Fri Nov 24, 2006 9:30 am

[quote="MacGaden"]May I suggest this:

http://store.metroamp.com/product_info. ... cts_id=281

Courtesy of out host, George ?

I think that the snubber caps more or less exploded when the PT died, leaving all that gunk in your amp. I was wondering why sparks and arching could leave traces like that.

I still think you should try to fix it yourself. With a little caution, and a lesson on how to discharge caps, it

OdgeUK · Post by **OdgeUK** » Tue Nov 28, 2006 8:46 am

Ok. Just called the guitar shop. The amp is back from the tech. I pick it up tonight.

The guy in the guitar shop skim read the report and said that "The Transformer was hanging off - fixed" and "tubes were replaced". He said there were some other minor component changes but that the main change was the tubes. Charge?

MacGaden · Post by **MacGaden** » Tue Nov 28, 2006 9:05 am

Ask for the old tubes. They are yours.

/UG

OdgeUK · Post by **OdgeUK** » Tue Nov 28, 2006 9:26 am

MacGaden wrote:Ask for the old tubes. They are yours.

/UG

If it's the pre-amp tubes I will. But not worth asking for the PowerTubes? No? I mean, power tubes fail dont' they, whether they are good ones or not. Surely there won't be any value in shot-to-bits Mullard EL34s? I'll be interested to see what he's put in there as a replacement.

But good pre-amp tubes shouldn't need changing too often should they?

neikeel · Post by **neikeel** » Tue Nov 28, 2006 10:38 am

Hi Odge

Your old power tubes were 1970's Mullard EL34s (AFAIK no-one has made repros of these, yet

) they have the newer shield logo, I think they are xf3 or xf4s which are great tubes for heavy stuff.

clarkydaz · Post by **clarkydaz** » Tue Nov 28, 2006 11:59 am

ive had personal experience of techs trying to rob mullards and bugle boys thinking you know no better.

OdgeUK · Post by **OdgeUK** » Tue Dec 05, 2006 7:05 am

Sorry I've been so long updating you on this. MAJOR PC problems.

Well. I picked up the amp from my local guitar shop last week. The owner of the shop had picked it up from the tech that morning. I had called in the morning to find out what had been done and that's when I was told that "a few minor components......some tubes......transformer was hanging off......

clarkydaz · Post by **clarkydaz** » Tue Dec 05, 2006 7:59 am

been there myself in my early days and its an unfortunate necessity you have to go through not being familiar with your amp. you have been overcharged but it will happen most shops you go to. its either stare at a dead useless amp or bite the bullet. until you start getting familair with it on forums like this

i think your tech is about as straight as a

OdgeUK · Post by **OdgeUK** » Tue Dec 05, 2006 8:09 am

[quote="clarkydaz"]been there myself in my early days and its an unfortunate necessity you have to go through not being familiar with your amp. you have been overcharged but it will happen most shops you go to. its either stare at a dead useless amp or bite the bullet. until you start getting familair with it on forums like this

i think your tech is about as straight as a

neikeel · Post by **neikeel** » Wed Dec 06, 2006 7:24 pm

Sorry to hear that but it echoes my own experiences, did sound a bit cheap especially with valves

Your plan is a good one. Remounting the tranny correctly will be so easy although you will need to resolder the wires after routing them correctly, why did the eedjit drill your chassis???

As long as you can drain the caps and can solder neatly it would be pretty easy to do yourself.

The perfectionist view would be an original spec. tranny but if it sounds good why bother, it will never be a serious collectors item, I think you should make it a sound, tidy reliable players amp.

I put the PPIMV (version 2) that George sells on mine, it is easy to fit for a novice sounds pretty good to me and really gets the out put stage going at bearable volumes, I used a hole someone had drilled in mine for a low z output, you could use a speaker out hole unless you are using a full stack.

If you get really stuck I can do the work for you for free but postage to Suffolk might be a bit much (and I am not a true tech. as you may guess from my other waffling, but this is pretty safe ground!

) especially as you will probably be able to do it yourself with help from round here.

OdgeUK · Post by **OdgeUK** » Thu Dec 07, 2006 4:21 am

neikeel wrote:So
Your plan is a good one. Remounting the tranny correctly will be so easy although you will need to resolder the wires after routing them correctly, why did the eedjit drill your chassis??? .

You mean actually change where the wires come from the Tranny? Wow. Sounds tricky! Wouldn't I have to somehow route them UNDER the Tranny so that it would be more like a laydown?

neikeel wrote: The perfectionist view would be an original spec. tranny ..but if it sounds good why bother,

Yeah. I heard an original Laydown for one of these fetches almost

harddriver · Post by **harddriver** » Thu Dec 07, 2006 10:14 am

Guys,
I was trying to find out what values those caps were on the end of the boards as well as I want to replace them. 0.22uf/1000V , Does george have any in the store?

Neikeel, Guys you have to try the Ken Fischer Tyoe II master volume it blows the TYPE I and TYPE II(RICH) master volume away.

I had a Type I in my 72 SL and just got done installing the Fischer type II that Larry and Mark tweaked in the PPIMV in Restoration.mods section of the forum illustrate.

Believe me it is way better at least versus the type I. I will try to take some pics of it installed in my 72 if you like andpost them. It is not any harder of an installation. It sounds so much better a lower volumes and even better as it gets turned up.

Check it out!

Mark

rockstah · Post by **rockstah** » Thu Dec 07, 2006 10:23 am

harddriver wrote:Guys,
I was trying to find out what values those caps were on the end of the boards as well as I want to replace them. 0.22uf/1000V , Does george have any in the store?

Neikeel, Guys you have to try the Ken Fischer Tyoe II master volume it blows the TYPE I and TYPE II(RICH) master volume away. I had a Type I in my 72 SL and just got done installing the Fischer type II that Larry and Mark tweaked in the PPIMV in Restoration.mods section of the forum illustrate.

Believe me it is way better at least versus the type I. I will try to take some pics of it installed in my 72 if you like andpost them. It is not any harder of an installation. It sounds so much better a lower volumes and even better as it gets turned up.

Check it out!
Mark

.22u

http://store.metroamp.com/product_info. ... cts_id=157

neikeel · Post by **neikeel** » Thu Dec 07, 2006 12:11 pm

Perhaps I should try the Fischer version I have two of Georges kits, one for my new 68 JMP50 build and another I was going to put in the 45/100.

I saw Marks neat diagram so I have no excuses not to try modding one of Georges kits.

Current project is my 69 JMP50, trying to keep it as original as possible (hence no MV, will use my hotplate only).

I got my 0.22uF caps. from Radiospares (big yellow polyester ones 1,000v) they were