Question about soldering... Picture included

[TheShaggyFox]

I've gotten further into my kit, but I still think my two green wires from the PT soldered up to V5 look funny. Definitely looking for advice on how to make them look better. Should I wrap them around the pins? Do I need to tin these wires as well? Thanks.

[neikeel]

I personally prefer to bring the wires from above, nearer the chassis (avoids a 'ring' of ac around the whole socket) but I know the instructions have them like that.

It is difficult to get the wires into the holes if you tin them first, the only way to do that is to use your wire strippers to thin the wire down a little first. The sockets I use have the lower hole a little larger so I put the transformer wires in first nearer the chassis and wire in the outgoing wires to the chain afterwards.

To me it looks like your solder has not flowed properly, if the wires are clean and you have a little flux and your iron is hot enough it should flow cleanly.

[TheShaggyFox]

Thanks for the advice! I'm about to redo them. Just finished wiring up the PT... then I'll move onto installing those 1 ohm 1 watt resistors...

[axeman]

Before you continue on your build, make sure when you pass the lead wire through the solder lug, you bend the wire/ rap around the lug. I speak from experience I redid two of my amps and a friends, and the outcome was eye opening.

Good luck

Art

[jcmjmp]

I would add that those solder joints don't look like they were heated enough for the solder to flow into the wire. You have to heat the metal and apply the solder on the metal, not on the solder tip. When the metal is hot enough, it sucks in the solder.

[ezs]

More Heat, work fast, let the solder wick into all the strands, dab a crowning puddle to finish for strength and appearence. Get a decent soldering station off eBay and youll find youll have much more controll over your work.

[axeman]

I would add that those solder joints don't look like they were heated enough for the solder to flow into the wire. You have to heat the metal and apply the solder on the metal, not on the solder tip. When the metal is hot enough, it sucks in the solder.

Also clean tip, apply a small amount of solder to tip, then apply tip to objective (it well get hot faster) add solder to opposite side of objective not soldering tip.

If you don't understand, ask.

Art

[planetjimi]

Before you continue on your build, make sure when you pass the lead wire through the solder lug, you bend the wire/ rap around the lug. I speak from experience I redid two of my amps and a friends, and the outcome was eye opening.

Good luck

Art

Curious what you mean by eye opening?
Thanks

[axeman]

The tone in general.

[TheShaggyFox]

Yeah for some reason these were the only wires I didn't wrap around? Not sure why. Probably because I wasn't thinking about that when I first got started. About to finally fix this problem right now. Or at least desolder it. I'll apply more heat this time too, I was afraid of burning up anything at first. Thanks for the suggestions, you guys are great!

[TheShaggyFox]

Just finished! I think it looks way better. Definitely still room for improvement, but that's for the next build...

Don't make fun of my insulation burns...

[Coot Boy]

There's nothing stopping you from snipping off those two wires and starting again. This time try to apply the heat fast, put a little solder on the tip, this disperses the heat quicker, it's a fine line between getting the heat on and melting the insolation AND as you've also discovered, it's easy to touch the insolation with the iron. Don't wait for the next build to improve your soldering skills. No time like the present. I don't feel it is necessary to go out n buy some fancy soldering station either. I've been using $15 irons for 35 years and see no reason to spend more, not that they cost that much back then, just get a 25W iron with a pointy tip and watch what you touch with it, take pride in your work. oh and I would put those two green wires in the bottom holes so you can have easier access for the other heaters that you would put on top, lessening the chance of burning the insulation again when you do the other ( top) heaters. Apply the iron from the inside so you don't burn the insol. If you can get your heaters looking good, you're half way there.

[TheShaggyFox]

There's nothing stopping you from snipping off those two wires and starting again. This time try to apply the heat fast, put a little solder on the tip, this disperses the heat quicker, it's a fine line between getting the heat on and melting the insolation AND as you've also discovered, it's easy to touch the insolation with the iron. Don't wait for the next build to improve your soldering skills. No time like the present. I don't feel it is necessary to go out n buy some fancy soldering station either. I've been using $15 irons for 35 years and see no reason to spend more, not that they cost that much back then, just get a 25W iron with a pointy tip and watch what you touch with it, take pride in your work. oh and I would put those two green wires in the bottom holes so you can have easier access for the other heaters that you would put on top, lessening the chance of burning the insulation again when you do the other ( top) heaters. Apply the iron from the inside so you don't burn the insol. If you can get your heaters looking good, you're half way there.

Yeah I actually burnt the insulation while reaching down for the red and black heater wires cause I wanted to redo those too. Damn shakey hands!

It's odd, I've never touched the solder to the tip of the iron while soldering. I have to assume that I'm just not applying enough heat. I feel that what I did last night is definitely a step in the right direction though. Luckily my other soldered joints look alot prettier than this one!

Oh yeah, and I'm working with one of those Weller WLC100 soldering stations and I'm just using the tip that came with it. I've heard about their tips being crappy, but I've kept it cleaned and tinned at all times.

[Coot Boy]

Keep at it mate, if the solder doesn't start melting very quickly, with the tip still on the joint, dab a little solder between the tip and the joint, that will get the heat up fast, then just add solder to the joint as required. I always apply solder to the tip first, a dry tip doesn't transfer the heat that well unless it's a 60 watter After each joint, clean the tip and you're ready for the next joint, ah I mean solder joint of course
Oh and as for shaky hands, if you can, rest both hands ( side of palms ) on something, that will steady you up.

[neikeel]

Th I don't feel it is necessary to go out n buy some fancy soldering station either. I've been using $15 irons for 35 years and see no reason to spend more, not that they cost that much back then, just get a 25W iron with a pointy tip and watch what you touch with it, take pride in your work. oh and I would put those two green wires in the bottom holes so you can have easier access for the other heaters that you would put on top, lessening the chance of burning the insulation again when you do the other ( top) heaters.

Yes I also use a simple 25w Weller with a fine chisel tip. No temp gauge etc. Just keep it hot, clean and tinned in and out let the solder flow.

It's practice I am afraid (perhaps I could spend more time on the guitar ).

re the wires: I agree, as I said above, I put green in the bottom lug, black red top too for two reasons, hole size and you need more heat as the PT acts as a heat sink