First build

demonufo · Post by **demonufo** » Tue Jan 07, 2014 5:09 pm

Electrically it's all the same so yes, you could, as long as it is mechanically sound.

Personally I'd look for something with longer leads than the Xicons, or even resort to 2W metal oxide resistors.

hotshot9911 · Post by **hotshot9911** » Tue Jan 07, 2014 9:38 pm

Thanks man! Now I just have to order those 2 and wire up the board hoping I will get sound out of the amp

notes coming from my guitar that is.

hotshot9911 · Post by **hotshot9911** » Thu Jan 09, 2014 9:02 pm

Hey guys all I have to do know is wire up the board,everything is in place.I was wonder how you guys solder your turrets?I am going to clip all the leads while heating them to absorb some of that heat so that they dont overheat,but I was wondering when you guys solder (the way I have herd it from most of the people on here)but I was told to get enough solder on to tin all the leads then take the tip off then reheat the joint after a couple of seconds and apply then apply the majority of the solder on top of the turret? I also know to keep the heat a little lower so that when you solder the top turret it beads a little more instead of having it flow all down into the turret.Thanks guys and please respond back-Jake

demonufo · Post by **demonufo** » Fri Jan 10, 2014 4:04 pm

I don't like keeping the heat lower. It requires you to keep the tip on longer, and ends up heatsoaking components even more. Only way to not apply too much solder is not apply too much solder. It will drop through anyway, just avoid using too much. If it doesn't drop through freely, then you are not using enough heat.

Depending on the components themselves, I generally don't bother with pre-tinning. Apply heat to joint, add just a touch of solder to help heat soak the joint (at the iron tip), wait a couple of seconds then apply the correct amount of solder from the top and remove iron tip and solder at the same time.

This is not the only correct method, it's just the one that works for me.

danman · Post by **danman** » Fri Jan 10, 2014 8:23 pm

I also use demonufo's way of soldering. Keep the heat up, don't pre-tin your leads...touch the iron to both parts and apply a drop of solder to the iron's tip which will help with the heat flow into the turret and leads. Once that solder begins to wet and flow onto your components, add another touch of solder directly onto your turret and component and leave the iron on for just a second or two longer until the solder flows and wets the joint properly. Then remove both at the same time and let cool without moving. The whole process should take no more than about five seconds.I like the 63/37 because it sets faster and you have less chance of ending up with a cold joint.

hotshot9911 · Post by **hotshot9911** » Fri Jan 10, 2014 10:33 pm

Thanks to both of you guys!I got the board wired up today and everything else wired up so im am pretty much ready to to fire it up but! there are a couple joints on my board that there is no way what so ever they are not cold joints lol it went from crappy to alot better going from left to right on the board but I was wondering if on those those joints the best thing to do would be to heat the turret and quickly take out the cap so I dont over heat it,suck up the solder then re solder it?thanks and please respond back-Jake

danman · Post by **danman** » Fri Jan 10, 2014 11:33 pm

If I dont feel completely comfortable with a joint on the first go around I will simply reheat and reflow the joint and add a touch of new solder. If the joint doesn't look right after that I will remove the solder and start over with a good cleaning and a touch of extra flux.

demonufo · Post by **demonufo** » Sat Jan 11, 2014 5:26 am

You're not going to hurt coupling caps, but mica's may be more at risk. Don't bother with removing the solder unless adding a graction more (for the resin) is going to leave you with too much.

hotshot9911 · Post by **hotshot9911** » Sat Feb 08, 2014 4:11 pm

Hey guys,sorry I haven't been able to respond in a while.My parents computer went out

and also considering metro has been down for a while because of the virus.But When I got done with the amp I fired it up and the voltages checked out exact on everything! But now since I am broken teenager without a job who just spent all of his money building the amp lol it might be a while before I can afford tubes

lol but when I get them I will check back with you guys and bias the amp and do everything I have to.But After all that is said and done I am going to take it down to a music store near me who have a 67 Marshall cabinet

that im going to try it out on but thanks again for all I have learned from you guys and building this amp.Like I said thought it might be about 2 or even more months before I can get some tubes but I do I will make a video and finally be able to dime this bad boy!thanks again and see ya guys later-Jake

danman · Post by **danman** » Sat Feb 08, 2014 10:48 pm

Congratulations on completing your build! Just make sure you have the head plugged into a cab when you fire it up again with the tubes to check voltages and do your biasing procedure. Always make sure to have it connected to a load or speaker cab whenever you have it powered up and off of standby when the power tubes are installed or you could risk damaging your OT.

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