MetroAmp Dual Voltage Switching

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flemingmras
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MetroAmp Dual Voltage Switching

Post by flemingmras » Sat Sep 19, 2009 3:14 am

For those of you who are curious to know how the MetroAmp dual voltage switching works and is able to compensate the bias for high and low voltage, I have drawn up a schematic of the full power supply to illustrate.

Image

If you take a look at S2 on the schematic, you'll see that S2 is a 3P3T (3 Pole 3 "Throw", i.e "position") toggle switch. The center position is the "Off" position, so will function as the "Standby" position and break the circuit between the transformer and the rest of the power supply.

The first two poles switch the rectifier circuit between the full winding of the B+ Secondary and the blue/red wires that tap off of 80% of the secondary, which give a lower voltage.

The higher the plate voltage, the more negative the bias voltage must be. More plate voltage = more plate current, so more negative voltage is needed to limit the plate current in the tube.

Conversely, the lower the plate voltage, the less bias voltage the tube needs to keep its steady state current draw in check. Thus a resistor needs to be placed between the bias supply and the bias secondary WITHOUT breaking the circuit between the bias secondary and the bias supply so that the power tubes always have bias voltage on them even while switching between high and low voltage. This is the job of the third pole of the switch.

Across the common and the high voltage position of the third pole is a 25K pot. When the switch is in high voltage mode, the switch shorts the pot out, thereby taking the pot out of the circuit and making the bias supply the stock circuit.

When the switch is flipped to low voltage mode, this unshorts the pot connected to the third pole of the switch so that the resistor is now in line with the bias supply. This pot limits current flow to the bias supply from the transformer, thereby making the negative voltage at the supply output less negative. At a lower plate voltage, tubes need less negative voltage and can also draw more current than they can at high voltage. Unshorting the pot allows this to happen and allows the tubes to draw more current.

To bias a circuit with this setup -

1) With the amp in standby mode, turn on the power and measure the voltage at pin 5. Adjust both pots for the most negative voltage.

2) Once you've completed step one and the tubes are in and warmed up, flip the standby switch to the high voltage position. Set your meter to measure DC volts, connect the black lead of the meter to the chassis, and place the red lead on pin 3 of one of the output tubes.

3) Note the measurement and perform this equation -

17500 / Plate Voltage = Max Bias Current in millivolts (mV)

4) Set the meter to measure DC Millivolts (mV). Measure the voltage at pin 8. Adjust the bias control mounted on the circuit board until you get the mV reading you derived in the above equation.

5) Switch the standby switch to low voltage mode. Repeat the above steps, except for low voltage you adjust the bias with the pot that's connected to the switch.
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Re: MetroAmp Dual Voltage Switching

Post by Sral68 » Mon Mar 08, 2010 2:55 pm

Thanks for a really clearifying explenation. Finally I've got the amp running with the correct bias in both voltages.
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Re: MetroAmp Dual Voltage Switching

Post by paulster » Mon Mar 08, 2010 4:49 pm

And if you cap off the centre tap that was balancing the first pair of caps and use balancing resistors instead you can get an additional voltage mode which is one half on the high voltage winding and the other half on the low voltage winding. This will give you about 90% of full voltage.

It's a useful second string to that particular tranny's bow.

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Re: MetroAmp Dual Voltage Switching

Post by rockgod212 » Sun Mar 14, 2010 12:21 pm

thanx for the info on this as im using this mod on my build. why doesnt the 25k pot come with the voltage switching mod kit and is it important to use that bias pot with the switch? what pins or wires does the 25k pot connect to on the switch? :?

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Re: MetroAmp Dual Voltage Switching

Post by flemingmras » Sun Mar 21, 2010 10:21 am

rockgod212 wrote:thanx for the info on this as im using this mod on my build. why doesnt the 25k pot come with the voltage switching mod kit and is it important to use that bias pot with the switch? what pins or wires does the 25k pot connect to on the switch? :?
Originally George spec'ed a fixed resistor in that position. However, someone here on the boards came up with the bright idea of installing a 2nd 25K pot instead of the fixed resistor so that it would be adjustable for low voltage mode.

I took it a step further and came up with a way to install the pot on the turret board itself by adding two more turrets to the board.


Stock board -

Image

Board with low voltage bias trimpot added...look real close and you'll see also that the center pot terminal gets shorted to the outer terminal that gets connected to the 27K resistor -

Image
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Re: MetroAmp Dual Voltage Switching

Post by skidbrake » Thu Feb 17, 2011 12:41 pm

Greetings, all. I'm building a tube-rectified JTM50 with a dual voltage PT and am adapting the information on this thread to fit my application. Below is a sketch of how I think it should be wired ... does this look correct?

Image

I don't have enough space to fit a 3P3T switch in place of the Standby switch, so I'm using a 3PDT that I will mount to the side of the chassis by the PT. This amp is going into a BB combo cab, so when I want to switch between high and low voltage, I'll reach inside and flip the toggle bat. This is based on an idea I borrowed from Greg Germino's Club 40, where the Recto/SS switch is similarly located.

The HV tap is 690V and the low tap is 420V. For reference, here are links to the layout and PT I'm using:

Layout: http://www.ceriatone.com/images/layoutP ... iatone.jpg
PT: http://www.7b5.me/amps/PT.pdf

Thanks.

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