100W Superlead Plexi - BUILD DIARY

[mad-axeman]

Thanks Franz, I sincerely appreciate that!

Got some time today to get a bit more work done...











Stu

[OnTheFritz]

Looking good!
Very clean and organized.
I won't be taking any pictures of my bench.

[mad-axeman]

Thanks for the kind words!

I guess I do have a question regarding the indicator light- specifically, how do I know which lug I was to solder the red wire to, or does it not matter? I kinda assume it doesn't since it wasn't specified, but it's probably a good time to ask now.

Stu

[axeman]

It does not matter. Can you post a close up picture(s) of your soldering skills.

[mad-axeman]

It does not matter. Can you post a close up picture(s) of your soldering skills.

Hey Axeman,

I cropped one of my previous photos to try and get a close-up, but it's not great. Let me know if you would like a better photo, as I'm happy to take pics.



Stu

[axeman]

No this photo is fine, just looking for poor solder connections. It looks good, take your time and don't rush anything or you'll find your self doing everything over again instead of enjoying your new HW 100 watt Plexi.

[mad-axeman]

No this photo is fine, just looking for poor solder connections. It looks good, take your time and don't rush anything or you'll find your self doing everything over again instead of enjoying your new HW 100 watt Plexi.

Gotcha. I appreciate the concern, and will be going over the wiring thus far very thoroughly before proceeding. I definitely am nervous about what will happen when I fire this up for the first time, and can see that extra time now can save me heartache later.

Stu

[mad-axeman]

Today I went over all my solder joints and finished up the first part of the build - everything leading up to the turret board. Here's what I have thus far:







Stu

[mad-axeman]

Hey everyone. This entry catches me very frustrated with myself...

I didn't realize there were 2 gauges of buss wire in this kit, and of course I completed the first half of the build (up to the turret board) with the the 22 gauge wire; so I have to go through the build and redo that all.

Since I didn't even touch the 18 gauge, I have plenty for the redo- that's the good news. Unfortunately, I used all of the 22 gauge up, so my turret building has come to a standstill.

I hate that I have to resolder all those connections- not because of the work, but rather the stress I'll be putting on the parts, having to reheat them 2 more times. Ugghhhh, I'm an idiot!!

Could I be so bold as to inquire if anyone has any extra 22 gauge wire they'd be willing to sell me? I am really particular about getting the same wire that came with the kit, so I'd prefer not to go hardware store trolling. I can Paypal the funds at any time. Thanks in advance for any/all assistance, Stu

[ThunderOne]

Stu, I suggest you ask George Metropoulos directly about this. I don't think there is a problem with 22 gauge on the pots but I might be wrong. It's worth waiting to get the right answer about this. I have about 21" of leftover 22 gauge from my first build (as I didn't get any with this one... ) which I could easily mail you if you wish, just pm your shipping address. But 21" is sort of minimum so please no mistakes in size cutting . But if you prefer getting more, I'm sure the Metro experts will help you out.

[axeman]

22g is fine, don't stress and don't waste your time redoing the bus wire. Reminder when soldering wire make sure you wrap the component, for example the ground wire from the input sockets, you should have wrapped around the bus wire and not simply go over like on the picture. If you need some more bus wire to ease your mind let me know I will sent it just, pay for shipping.

[mad-axeman]

Should be getting my 22G wire very soon so i've started looking ahead; in doing so, i have a few questions. I am at the turret board stage of the build and am a bit unclear of a few things in the directions. Any help is always appreciated.

In step 13A:
-regarding the 2 choke wires: does it matter which wire goes where? the photo shows them both routed thru the board but doesn't specify which one. i assume it doesn't matter, but want to double check w/the experts
-same thing regarding F1 cap positive terminal wires; are they interchangeable too?
In step 14A:
-I am really not clear how to wire the green wires from turret to input jacks; a better photo would really help me out; the description is unclear to me and the photos aren't much help either. I understand that there are 2 pairs and each pair is wired the same, but I just can't see how it's done.

The instructions always refer to the wiring diagrams in the appendices. I am not sure I would be able to make sense of them anyway, but I can't seem to locate them. Does anyone know where these docs are located?

I apologize for being such a n00b! But I feel like if I ask questions now, I can avoid having to ask them later.

Thanks in advance,

Stu

[ThunderOne]

Hi Stu:

Choke Wires interchangeable. (Don't forget to twist them a bit under the board)
F1 Cap Wires interchangeable. (Just use the nearest one to each hole)
Green Input Wires from the board connect to the lower pair of jacks (which appears to be the higher one when the chassis is upside down) As per instructions, the right hand side wire of each pair on the board connects to the lower lug of the upper jack (which is actually the upper lug of the lower jack when the chassis is in its box), the left hand side wire of each pair on the board will then connect to the upper lug of the upper jack with the green jumper which was installed earlier. If you look carefully at the pictures, you will see this although a better angle would have been preferable.

[ThunderOne]

I reread what I wrote previously and decided that it would be better to post a pic...

Metro Superbass Input Jack Connections.JPG (183.57 KiB) Viewed 3717 times

[mad-axeman]

Thanks to Franz, I was able to continue on with my build. Here's where we stand thus far....