100w aluminum early chassis?

bluze81 · Post by **bluze81** » Tue Feb 20, 2007 8:07 pm

Didnt George sell an aluminum chassis for the early style 100 watt design? what to use for building a jtm45/100 clone other than the steel early style chassis? was there a chassis that Metro has stopped offering for the jtm100? bluze

Flames1950 · Post by **Flames1950** » Tue Feb 20, 2007 8:47 pm

Yeah, the early one was used for anyting from '66-'68 builds (you did have to add the top mounted filter cap hole yourself.) It disappeared when the steel '67-'68 chassis came around and left kind of a big hole for us JTM100 fans.

bluze81 · Post by **bluze81** » Wed Feb 21, 2007 12:54 am

I really wanted an aluminum chassis to build a jtm45/100 style amp,[horse feathers!] so the only alternative is the 67 100w steel chassis?

Flames1950 · Post by **Flames1950** » Wed Feb 21, 2007 6:48 am

Yep....unless we can petition George to do another small run of the old aluminum chassis. But a limited run would probably cost more per piece.......

rtcook · Post by **rtcook** » Wed Feb 21, 2007 6:49 am

I have one of George's aluminum chassis, but it has a hole for the cap on top if you are interested.

Roger

Post by **VelvetGeorge** » Wed Feb 21, 2007 10:56 am

Guys, I do want to make a run of these again. I have to do at least (50) pieces. And I'll need to run panels as well.

A few specs need to be sorted first:

which OT mounting hole spacing to use? Should I go with the original spacing, then you would need to use the imported end bells. The Heyboer and MM parts wouldn't line up properly.

Do we add extra board mounting holes? The cap board especially could use an extra mount or two.

Include the voltage switch hole?

Lets get the details worked out and I'll have the print made and sent to the stamping plant.

VG

mightymike · Post by **mightymike** » Wed Feb 21, 2007 11:14 am

I would leave the holes for the board out, and the hole in the corner out, to give the most options.

rockstah · Post by **rockstah** » Wed Feb 21, 2007 11:25 am

VelvetGeorge wrote:Guys, I do want to make a run of these again. I have to do at least (50) pieces. And I'll need to run panels as well.

A few specs need to be sorted first:

which OT mounting hole spacing to use? Should I go with the original spacing, then you would need to use the imported end bells. The Heyboer and MM parts wouldn't line up properly.

Do we add extra board mounting holes? The cap board especially could use an extra mount or two.

Include the voltage switch hole?

Lets get the details worked out and I'll have the print made and sent to the stamping plant.

VG

George the less holes the better. as long as they are there for the board to sit properly people can add more if they desire- that alum is so soft its easy to drill.
drill them for mm and heyboers. my two cents.

Post by **VelvetGeorge** » Wed Feb 21, 2007 11:28 am

agree with less is more on the holes.

The OT mounts are MM or Heyboer, they are different.

VG

rockstah · Post by **rockstah** » Wed Feb 21, 2007 11:35 am

VelvetGeorge wrote:agree with less is more on the holes.

The OT mounts are MM or Heyboer, they are different.

VG

*slaps forhead*

then thats a tough one cause as we know people use both. i guess its more work for you to drill them per order?
my alum came and worked with the mercs - my steel was drilled for the heyboer and i got the different end bells to make the merc work. so its up to you as far as which is easier.

perhaps dont drill them at all and make up templates that people cant print and drill as needed?

again that alum is like working with butter- easy to drill.

mightymike · Post by **mightymike** » Wed Feb 21, 2007 11:59 am

You could leave off the OT holes too AFAIK, but maybe put 4 black dots with a sharpie where the holes would go for a 2", that can allways be wiped off.

This way people will at least mount it in the proper place, and not off too far to one side.

My .02

either way I'm glad you gonna get some more because I have to sell my JTM 45/100

JeffG. · Post by **JeffG.** » Wed Feb 21, 2007 1:47 pm

VelvetGeorge wrote:agree with less is more on the holes.

The OT mounts are MM or Heyboer, they are different.

VG

If you can do it shoot me a price on one with no holes at all, just a blank chassis. And what grade of aluminum if you know. Actually Mark is saying its pretty soft so I should be able to use the router. Have to break out the flak jacket for that though

I wouldn't mind stashing one in the closet for a custom build some day.

To address Mike's concern above you might be able to publish a full size template as a PDF on your site. A guy could print that out, lay it on the chassis and drill/mill.

rockstah · Post by **rockstah** » Wed Feb 21, 2007 1:48 pm

mightymike wrote:You could leave off the OT holes too AFAIK, but maybe put 4 black dots with a sharpie where the holes would go for a 2", that can allways be wiped off.

This way people will at least mount it in the proper place, and not off too far to one side.

My .02

either way I'm glad you gonna get some more because I have to sell my JTM 45/100

thats what the template would be for!

wdelaney72 · Post by **wdelaney72** » Wed Feb 21, 2007 1:52 pm

Is the aluminum chassis less expensive than the steel?

OnTheFritz · Post by **OnTheFritz** » Wed Feb 21, 2007 1:54 pm

I definitely want to get one of these, whatever you decide is fine with me, but I'd be happy if it came drilled for the Heyboer OT, as I've been totally happy with every one I've used.
Or maybe have 2 holes, (or one) and then a template for the other holes for the Heyboer and the Merc, for the differences, so at least you'd have a correct starting point. If that makes any sense.