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Step 16

Posted: Mon Dec 06, 2010 9:47 pm
by Stretchy
Starting to put the components on the board and I see that on the lead specs, at V1, if I look at the picture, I see the use of a 330uF electrolytic capacitor, yet if I look at the board schematics at the end of the guide, they say to put a 250uF. When I look at the caps I received, I see only a 220uF and and 330uF... no 250uF. Is this a typo ?

Re: Step 16

Posted: Mon Dec 06, 2010 10:38 pm
by toner
I'm not sure which part is a typo but it won't make any difference which you use. Both will bypass frequencies way below the audible range. 330uF is seen most often in schematics so that's probably more "vintage correct".

Re: Step 16

Posted: Mon Dec 06, 2010 10:51 pm
by Stretchy
Thanks, its just that on the board layout, they say to use a 250uF (which I didn't received with the kit) and on the picture we see a 330uF, so this leaves me with a "spare" 220uF cap. I guess it's there so I can test these values! I used the 330uF.

Re: Step 16

Posted: Mon Dec 06, 2010 10:58 pm
by toner
Yeah, it's probably just a spare. If you can hear any difference between 220uF, 250uF or 330uF as a V1a bypass cap, you have very good ears!

Re: Step 16

Posted: Mon Dec 06, 2010 11:39 pm
by FourT6and2
hahah I asked this EXACT same question about two or three weeks ago. And yes, the frequencies that cap filters are outside the human range of hearing. So, it won't make a difference which one you use. Metro just gives you extra components so you can experiment with different values.

Re: Step 16

Posted: Tue Dec 07, 2010 6:31 am
by Stretchy
FourT6and2 wrote:hahah I asked this EXACT same question about two or three weeks ago. And yes, the frequencies that cap filters are outside the human range of hearing. So, it won't make a difference which one you use. Metro just gives you extra components so you can experiment with different values.
Guess what... I search the forum cause I was quite sure that someone picked this up, but I use the wrong terms nd didn't find much, so I ended up posting my question (that's what we call being lazy). It's only after this that I saw your answer, but the fact that your build is a Bass Specs, didn't dissipate all my worries at first, cause mine is a Lead Specs.

I love those moments doing the kit, cause I learn while having fun!

Thanks for hopping dude... your amp looks really nice!

Re: Step 16

Posted: Tue Dec 07, 2010 4:50 pm
by FourT6and2
Stretchy wrote:
FourT6and2 wrote:hahah I asked this EXACT same question about two or three weeks ago. And yes, the frequencies that cap filters are outside the human range of hearing. So, it won't make a difference which one you use. Metro just gives you extra components so you can experiment with different values.
Guess what... I search the forum cause I was quite sure that someone picked this up, but I use the wrong terms nd didn't find much, so I ended up posting my question (that's what we call being lazy). It's only after this that I saw your answer, but the fact that your build is a Bass Specs, didn't dissipate all my worries at first, cause mine is a Lead Specs.

I love those moments doing the kit, cause I learn while having fun!

Thanks for hopping dude... your amp looks really nice!
Dude... mine's lead spec also.

Re: Step 16

Posted: Tue Dec 07, 2010 11:10 pm
by Stretchy
FourT6and2 wrote: Dude... mine's lead spec also.
Huh ? I thought looking at this pic http://fc07.deviantart.net/fs71/f/2010/ ... 32srow.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; that your board was based on Super Bass Specs (no .68uF cap at the far right of the board).

No ?

Re: Step 16

Posted: Tue Dec 07, 2010 11:16 pm
by Stretchy
Mystery solved... Re-reading your log, I see that you were waiting for the .68 cap (damaged in the mail).

Awesome job by the way, is this your first build ?

Re: Step 16

Posted: Wed Dec 08, 2010 9:42 am
by FourT6and2
Well, I built a Fender Champ clone about six years ago. So, it's not technically my first build. But a Champ is like 5 wires and a tube socket. So my Metro kit was my first REAL build, I'd say. :)