S.I.R. 100W SuperLead Schematic pt. II

[Antonio]

1n bright because that is the right voicing and because 5n makes that gain control unusable and impractical for a high gain amp. Hence too much gain, too soon.
The 150k may not be necessary with the 1n bright cap where gain is concerned but it gives bass reduction and some gain reduction. Set gain 1 and 2 around 6, EQ the rest of the amp and there is your AFD sound.
500p in TS is correct.
56k, 68k or 100k at 4r settings for NFB - whichever you like. 100k = more gain, bass and looser feel
Use .1u or .68u presence cap, depending on which you like best. .68 is more gain and bass, .1 is more sizzle and treble.
You then only have to voice stage 2 and /or stage 3 cathodes to your liking.

Cool! I will try this! It looks very good to me!

I recorded a small audio with the microphone of the iPhone positioned in front of the 4x12. I have 1979 G12-80 speakers in it.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UMT3jP ... sp=sharing

Settings: Presence 6/ Bass 5/ Middle 6/ Treble 6/ Master 2/ Gain2 6/ Gain1 4

I'll be happy to know what you think.

Kind regards,
Antônio.

[CoffeeTones]

Needs work

[Antonio]

Needs work

For sure!

So my changes should be:
1n bright cap in 1st gain pot
150k for ground on 1st pot gain
NFB at 68k or 47k on 4ohm tap

Is the rest of the circuit correct?

Thank you very much!

[Unique]

1n bright because that is the right voicing and because 5n makes that gain control unusable and impractical for a high gain amp. Hence too much gain, too soon.
The 150k may not be necessary with the 1n bright cap where gain is concerned but it gives bass reduction and some gain reduction. Set gain 1 and 2 around 6, EQ the rest of the amp and there is your AFD sound.
500p in TS is correct.
56k, 68k or 100k at 4r settings for NFB - whichever you like. 100k = more gain, bass and looser feel
Use .1u or .68u presence cap, depending on which you like best. .68 is more gain and bass, .1 is more sizzle and treble.
You then only have to voice stage 2 and /or stage 3 cathodes to your liking.

Cool! I will try this! It looks very good to me!

I recorded a small audio with the microphone of the iPhone positioned in front of the 4x12. I have 1979 G12-80 speakers in it.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UMT3jP ... sp=sharing

Settings: Presence 6/ Bass 5/ Middle 6/ Treble 6/ Master 2/ Gain2 6/ Gain1 4

I'll be happy to know what you think.

Kind regards,
Antônio.

I hear some good things in there, but it sounds kind of mushy with too much low mids, too much bass, and the highs are a little strident. It also lacks good string separation. It sounds like you might have your pickups too close to the strings. If you have APH-1's, I'd start at 3/32" and tweak from there and make sure you arch your screws to radius of the fretboard. This will help with some of the things I mentioned here, and will sound much better once you get the #36 specs down. I hope this helps.

[Antonio]

1n bright because that is the right voicing and because 5n makes that gain control unusable and impractical for a high gain amp. Hence too much gain, too soon.
The 150k may not be necessary with the 1n bright cap where gain is concerned but it gives bass reduction and some gain reduction. Set gain 1 and 2 around 6, EQ the rest of the amp and there is your AFD sound.
500p in TS is correct.
56k, 68k or 100k at 4r settings for NFB - whichever you like. 100k = more gain, bass and looser feel
Use .1u or .68u presence cap, depending on which you like best. .68 is more gain and bass, .1 is more sizzle and treble.
You then only have to voice stage 2 and /or stage 3 cathodes to your liking.

Cool! I will try this! It looks very good to me!

I recorded a small audio with the microphone of the iPhone positioned in front of the 4x12. I have 1979 G12-80 speakers in it.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UMT3jP ... sp=sharing

Settings: Presence 6/ Bass 5/ Middle 6/ Treble 6/ Master 2/ Gain2 6/ Gain1 4

I'll be happy to know what you think.

Kind regards,
Antônio.

I hear some good things in there, but it sounds kind of mushy with too much low mids, too much bass, and the highs are a little strident. It also lacks good string separation. It sounds like you might have your pickups too close to the strings. If you have APH-1's, I'd start at 3/32" and tweak from there and make sure you arch your screws to radius of the fretboard. This will help with some of the things I mentioned here, and will sound much better once you get the #36 specs down. I hope this helps.

Hi Unique!

Many thanks for your suggestions!
I have APH-2S pickups and ABR1 Gotoh bridge. Can I follow the same specs for the APH-1s?

[CoffeeTones]

1n bright cap in 1st gain pot
150k wiper to ground on 1st pot gain
500p / 33k tone stack
68k or 100k NFB @ 4r - Not 47k = too much loss in this amp
possibly .1u presence depending on individual needs

[Antonio]

1n bright cap in 1st gain pot
150k wiper to ground on 1st pot gain
500p / 33k tone stack
68k or 100k NFB @ 4r - Not 47k = too much loss in this amp
possibly .1u presence depending on individual needs

Cool!
Thanks so much for listing this, Coffee!
Helped me a lot!

[Unique]

Cool! I will try this! It looks very good to me!

I recorded a small audio with the microphone of the iPhone positioned in front of the 4x12. I have 1979 G12-80 speakers in it.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UMT3jP ... sp=sharing

Settings: Presence 6/ Bass 5/ Middle 6/ Treble 6/ Master 2/ Gain2 6/ Gain1 4

I'll be happy to know what you think.

Kind regards,
Antônio.

I hear some good things in there, but it sounds kind of mushy with too much low mids, too much bass, and the highs are a little strident. It also lacks good string separation. It sounds like you might have your pickups too close to the strings. If you have APH-1's, I'd start at 3/32" and tweak from there and make sure you arch your screws to radius of the fretboard. This will help with some of the things I mentioned here, and will sound much better once you get the #36 specs down. I hope this helps.

Hi Unique!

Many thanks for your suggestions!
I have APH-2S pickups and ABR1 Gotoh bridge. Can I follow the same specs for the APH-1s?

You're welcome. You can definitely start at the 3/32" and tweak from there with the APH2's. Raising the screws will help dial out some of the mud and increase string separation. Raising the screws too much can make your sound too trebley as well, so find your sweet spot. The APH2's seem to be a little darker than the APH1's due to their being slightly hotter with more winds for increased mids. The more winds on a pickup generally leads to less treble. I hope this helps.

[Antonio]

I hear some good things in there, but it sounds kind of mushy with too much low mids, too much bass, and the highs are a little strident. It also lacks good string separation. It sounds like you might have your pickups too close to the strings. If you have APH-1's, I'd start at 3/32" and tweak from there and make sure you arch your screws to radius of the fretboard. This will help with some of the things I mentioned here, and will sound much better once you get the #36 specs down. I hope this helps.

Hi Unique!

Many thanks for your suggestions!
I have APH-2S pickups and ABR1 Gotoh bridge. Can I follow the same specs for the APH-1s?

You're welcome. You can definitely start at the 3/32" and tweak from there with the APH2's. Raising the screws will help dial out some of the mud and increase string separation. Raising the screws too much can make your sound too trebley as well, so find your sweet spot. The APH2's seem to be a little darker than the APH1's due to their being slightly hotter with more winds for increased mids. The more winds on a pickup generally leads to less treble. I hope this helps.

Great can know a little more about these things!

For the neck pickup, what height should I start with?

[Unique]

Hi Unique!

Many thanks for your suggestions!
I have APH-2S pickups and ABR1 Gotoh bridge. Can I follow the same specs for the APH-1s?

You're welcome. You can definitely start at the 3/32" and tweak from there with the APH2's. Raising the screws will help dial out some of the mud and increase string separation. Raising the screws too much can make your sound too trebley as well, so find your sweet spot. The APH2's seem to be a little darker than the APH1's due to their being slightly hotter with more winds for increased mids. The more winds on a pickup generally leads to less treble. I hope this helps.

Great can know a little more about these things!

For the neck pickup, what height should I start with?

I'd start at 3/32". I set my neck at the same height as my bridge, and it works well for me.

[Antonio]

Hi everyone, it's me again!

What is a good cable to do the hot shield method? Unique suggested the Belden 8411, but here in Brazil I can't find it.

Do you have other suggestions?

Thank you very much!

[CoffeeTones]

This is what I have used. It is small and easy to deal with. Withstands heat and 600V rated. It's .100" overall diameter IIRC.

https://www.steinair.com/product/22-awg ... spec-wire/

https://www.steinair.com/product/20-ga- ... spec-wire/

[Antonio]

Cool! I need to look for them here in Brazil.

Are instrument cables like Mogami 2319 or 2524 good for this? They are easy to find around here. They have Voltage Breakdown: DC 500V/15sec and Insulation Resistance 100000 MΩ × m Minimum at DC 500V (20°C).

[CoffeeTones]

I would not use Mogami for this. I tried W2330 on standard inputs. It is too fragile and insulation melts easily. I stopped using it and larger variants for anything inside amps.

[Antonio]

I found this cable made in Brazil, very similar to the Belden 8411, suggested by Unique.

These are the manufacturer's specifications (DataLink):

https://8p8cd5.p3cdn1.secureserver.net/ ... G58-US.pdf

It is a coaxial cable used for transmitting data over long distances! Sounds good!

What do you think?