JTM 45/100 - Build story

[BoogieEngineer]

i didn't know that, it didn't seem to have a coating ( ?? ) i already soldered the wires of the OT, should i unsolder it ?? are you sure ? i'll ask to Brian Wallace i'm a bit surprised.
Then , should i scrape every wires ? the stranded wires from the PT too ?

please, does anybody knows where's the power cap board ground, on an original 45/100 ?

The 100W instruction only says such thing about the output wires, you can double check that. Those were the only wires I scraped while I was building mine, and it is running fine. I would desolder them and scraped them properly, just in case. I am anal, but again it could do some serious damage.

[neikeel]

i didn't know that, it didn't seem to have a coating ( ?? ) i already soldered the wires of the OT, should i unsolder it ?? are you sure ? i'll ask to Brian Wallace i'm a bit surprised.
Then , should i scrape every wires ? the stranded wires from the PT too ?

please, does anybody knows where's the power cap board ground, on an original 45/100 ?

The 100W instruction only says such thing about the output wires, you can double check that. Those were the only wires I scraped while I was building mine, and it is running fine. I would desolder them and scraped them properly, just in case. I am anal, but again it could do some serious damage.

As I said before the 100w instuctions are referring to the Dagnall self lead OT where the leads are solid core and varnish coated. You must scrape these of the varnish.

The normal stranded leads do not need scraping.

[Xplorer]

i did a little test on a piece of OT wire that i had cut to acdjust the lenght with the selectors. Well, i used a cutter and scraped a little bit this stranded wire : indeed another color appears, more copper like, but the plating is still metal so i guess it's ok and i don't need to unsolder all this. Brian told me that if it solders nicely there's no need to worry.

About the thick wires arriving to the output jacks, i'll re do it nicely.

I'll have to buy some cotton isolated wire tomorrow for the boards and 5k6 resistors ( to have it accurate ) and i'll cut the boards and turret them after i'll check some input jacks wires and a few other things.

[BoogieEngineer]

As I said before the 100w instuctions are referring to the Dagnall self lead OT where the leads are solid core and varnish coated. You must scrape these of the varnish.

The normal stranded leads do not need scraping.

Cool Neil. Thanks for the info!

[Xplorer]

Small progress tonight, preparing the input jacks and their ground lug on the chassis with a new hole.

[Xplorer]

RS paxolin oards cut ! starting to put the Nos RS turrets.
Vintage charlie's technic for the cut of the board is better and i advise it to you. But i didn't have the right tools and patience so i use a metal saw, and sanded the edges nicely with a 600 paper and a flat surface under it, just like when i polished the chassis. Nice result.

[emmjaydubya]

Looking good!!!

[BoogieEngineer]

Very nice indeed. Man I just love building those things

[Xplorer]

Yeah ! thanks ! This is my pleasure after work. a bit every day or when i can.

[shakti]

Beautiful!

(PS: got your mail, will reply...sorry so little time)

[Xplorer]

Thanks Thorleif ! No problem, no hurry, work is a big priority ! See you later.

[Xplorer]

Finished to place the turrets, love it !
i also re did the output jacks connections and buss wires, as well as the isolation of the 5k6 resistors, with yellow cotton. + one of the yellow wires on the middle of the power tube sockets is changed, with a bit more lenght.

[Big Mike]

Looks fantastic!

I'm particularly jealous of how perfect the heaters look, and the lacing technique!

[BoogieEngineer]

Don't forget the NFB wire.

[Xplorer]

Thanks. Yeah, unforunately, the board hides the wires with lacing cords ^^.

The NFB wire ... he purple one going from the 27k to the 16 ohms tap ?
it's on my layout. Or were you talking about another one that i missed ?