Parallel effects loop for Marshall style amps

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joshwilson3
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Post by joshwilson3 » Mon Feb 26, 2007 11:00 am

Shaker wrote:Larry,

A big thank you for this loop. I built it on a 2203 amp and it works really, really well !
Oh, and the master volume is a ppimv on it.
PM sent for pics of the inside and pics of your extra jacks and knobs.

Larry,

Any comment on my above post?

Thanks 8)

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jerrydyer
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THANKS

Post by jerrydyer » Mon Feb 26, 2007 1:25 pm

JUST WANT TO POST A THANX TO LARRY. I love my loop.
vids.
http://www.youtube.com/user/jerrydyer?feature=mhw4" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.dui-specialist.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

marlin
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Post by marlin » Tue Feb 27, 2007 2:27 am

Hi!
Can i get a schematics too? Even though this is my first post? :)

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novosibir
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Post by novosibir » Tue Feb 27, 2007 3:15 am

joshwilson3 wrote:Is there anyway you could do a pdf file of your parallel loop in a 2203 circuit?
Josh, you should be able, to simply imagine the Master pot after the Treble control and then instead of to go from the Treble's wiper into the loop section then go from the Master's wiper into it. If you can't imagine this, then I'm wondering, how you're able to buildt the loop section into your amp.
joshwilson3 wrote:With the preamp on zero, would it be about the same as if I had the 820K/180K conjunction switched to ground? Or could there still be some hiss/hum in the signal?
Usually no hiss/hum will occur with the Preamp Volume on zero, but this depends on the quality of your preamp layout, grounding, aso. The loop section i.e. doesn't make a hissing or humming V2 quite :wink:
joshwilson3 wrote:If so, I'll probably go ahead with the switch at the 820K/180K conjunction to ground. If this is needed, would there be anyway I could get all of this on one 3-way mini switch?

I was thinking something like:

Loop on
Loop off
Loop on with 820K/180K conjunction to ground
When you're using a relay for the DPDT loop bypass switch and a on-off-on toggle switch with the center pin to ground, then you may switch the relay on pos. 1 and the conjunction on pos. 3

Larry
The fault almost always is sitting in front of the amp :wink:

Larry's Website now with included Pix's Gallery

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novosibir
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Re: THANKS

Post by novosibir » Tue Feb 27, 2007 3:17 am

Shaker wrote:Larry, A big thank you for this loop. I built it on a 2203 amp and it works really, really well !
jerrydyer wrote:JUST WANT TO POST A THANX TO LARRY. I love my loop.
:D :D :D

Larry
The fault almost always is sitting in front of the amp :wink:

Larry's Website now with included Pix's Gallery

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novosibir
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Post by novosibir » Tue Feb 27, 2007 3:19 am

marlin wrote:Hi!
Can i get a schematics too? Even though this is my first post? :)
Shure! Already sent!

And...

... welcome on the Metro board :D

Larry
The fault almost always is sitting in front of the amp :wink:

Larry's Website now with included Pix's Gallery

marlin
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Post by marlin » Tue Feb 27, 2007 3:21 am

novosibir wrote:
marlin wrote:Hi!
Can i get a schematics too? Even though this is my first post? :)
Shure! Already sent!

And...

... welcome on the Metro board :D

Larry
Thank you very much Larry!

/Markus

thinlizzy
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Post by thinlizzy » Tue Feb 27, 2007 4:22 am

Hi Larry,

Is there an easy way to include a relay into the loop, so I can use a footswitsch to switch the effectloop on and off? Probably the power for the relay (5V) will be a problem...

Regards Marcel

joshwilson3
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Post by joshwilson3 » Tue Feb 27, 2007 5:08 am

novosibir wrote:Josh, you should be able, to simply imagine the Master pot after the Treble control and then instead of to go from the Treble's wiper into the loop section then go from the Master's wiper into it. If you can't imagine this, then I'm wondering, how you're able to buildt the loop section into your amp.
You are right, I have no idea what is going on. I will be having George build my 2203 clone later this year. Right now I've got a rear panel template in Corel Draw I'm messing with as I'll have to get a custom rear panel made. I'm also getting a custom chassis made.

Basically, I'm figuring out what extra holes I'll need to add for this loop. I'm also gathering this info, so I can tell George what to do when the time comes. I can't really read schematics too well, I do better with a mockup of the actual layout as it would look in the amp. But, I'm sure George will know what to do.
novosibir wrote:When you're using a relay for the DPDT loop bypass switch and a on-off-on toggle switch with the center pin to ground, then you may switch the relay on pos. 1 and the conjunction on pos. 3
I'm guessing a "relay for the DPDT loop bypass switch" and a "on-off-on toggle switch" you are talking about is the same thing? I read that to mean two seperate things, but I'm guessing you are just talking about me using ONE on-off-on DPDT toggle switch?

So, if I'm reading this right, I would be able to get the loop-on, loop-off, and loop-on with 820K/180K conjunction to ground on ONE on-off-on DPDT toggle switch?

I like this as I would much rather have one mini toggle switch sticking out the back of my amp vs. having two. So, right now I've got:

Send volume
Send jack
Return volume
Return jack
on-off-on DPDT mini switch

What brand parts do you like in this loop? I plan on using Vishay/Dale metal file resistors on the board of my amp, I'm guessing this would be good in the loop? And what brand/type caps do you like to use in the loop? I'll be using the IC MPP caps on my board, plus those few others you sent me.

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novosibir
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Post by novosibir » Tue Feb 27, 2007 5:19 am

thinlizzy wrote:Is there an easy way to include a relay into the loop, so I can use a footswitsch to switch the effectloop on and off?
The schem of the loop with true bypass I've already sent you. When you instead of the DPDT switch use a relay, then you may switch the relay via footswitch. A 12V power supply for the relay you can feed from the bias winding in a 100W amp.

But when you only want to switch the effect on/off, it's reasonable to simply switch the Effects Send to ground, so that reverbs and delays won't be awful cut off, as it would happen with the true bypass!

In this case simply place a second Send parallel the the other one and go from there to a footswitch. No problem, to shunt the Send to ground and no problem with high losses, because the Send is low impedance!

Larry
The fault almost always is sitting in front of the amp :wink:

Larry's Website now with included Pix's Gallery

thinlizzy
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Post by thinlizzy » Tue Feb 27, 2007 9:02 am

novosibir wrote: But when you only want to switch the effect on/off, it's reasonable to simply switch the Effects Send to ground, so that reverbs and delays won't be awful cut off, as it would happen with the true bypass!

In this case simply place a second Send parallel the the other one and go from there to a footswitch. No problem, to shunt the Send to ground and no problem with high losses, because the Send is low impedance!

Larry
So if I understand correctly, putting the whiper off the send level to ground is enough to kill the signal that goes to the effects? No problems with Cabel lengts.
Is this method better than placing a A/B box in the loop to shut it off?

I just did some experementing with the dpdt switch and I hear no difference in tone with of with out the loop, this loop is real transparant, (so I leave it in all time) Also change the 68K to a lower value (47K) to atunate the return a bit more, works perfectly.

All hail Larry

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novosibir
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Post by novosibir » Tue Feb 27, 2007 4:24 pm

thinlizzy wrote:So if I understand correctly, putting the whiper off the send level to ground is enough to kill the signal that goes to the effects?
No! That would make the amp dead quite with the Send Level dimed!

The signal to the Send jack must be shunted to ground!

Larry
The fault almost always is sitting in front of the amp :wink:

Larry's Website now with included Pix's Gallery

thinlizzy
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Post by thinlizzy » Wed Feb 28, 2007 4:30 am

novosibir wrote:
thinlizzy wrote:So if I understand correctly, putting the whiper off the send level to ground is enough to kill the signal that goes to the effects?
No! That would make the amp dead quite with the Send Level dimed!

The signal to the Send jack must be shunted to ground!

Larry
Oke I understand now, its the same principle as the on/off switch in the guitar cord.

thanks

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Post by jreinhard » Sun Mar 04, 2007 5:56 pm

novosibir wrote:By any means insulated jacks, because they usually will be located close to the OT secondary ground - otherwise with non insulated jacks it might occur a 'put-put' like ground oscillation. Also the tips of the jacks have to be grounded when nothing is plugged in (switching jacks)!
Larry, I understand the switching jack on the return but I'm just wondering why you specify one for the send as well?

Thanks

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novosibir
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Post by novosibir » Sun Mar 04, 2007 7:17 pm

jreinhard wrote:Larry, I understand the switching jack on the return but I'm just wondering why you specify one for the send as well?
That was just to make it foolproof, because some people sometimes tend to confuse one with the other. Nothing bad happens, when the Send is grounded when unused - but you're right, it's not necessary to ground the unused Send (tip), because it's a low impedance output.

Larry
The fault almost always is sitting in front of the amp :wink:

Larry's Website now with included Pix's Gallery

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