Info for maintaining and tweaking your amp to perfection.
Moderator: VelvetGeorge
-
white noise
- Senior Member
- Posts: 263
- Joined: Sat Jun 22, 2013 9:09 am
- Just the numbers in order: 13492
- Location: San Antonio Texas
Post
by white noise » Thu Mar 24, 2016 8:43 am
I am trying to get rid of a slight relay pop.
Its a simple relay to select from a 10K or a .68uf with a 2.7K on V1b
It's is not a very huge pop at all but its there.
here is a layout:

-
Colossal
- New Member
- Posts: 40
- Joined: Sun Apr 25, 2010 10:35 am
- Just the numbers in order: 7
Post
by Colossal » Thu Mar 24, 2016 9:47 am
Place a 4M7 from the common to ground.
-
white noise
- Senior Member
- Posts: 263
- Joined: Sat Jun 22, 2013 9:09 am
- Just the numbers in order: 13492
- Location: San Antonio Texas
Post
by white noise » Thu Mar 24, 2016 11:34 am
Colossal wrote:Place a 4M7 from the common to ground.
thanks for the reply, I did a 4.7m from common to ground like attached picture and still have the same pop.
Did you mean to connect it at a different place?

-
Colossal
- New Member
- Posts: 40
- Joined: Sun Apr 25, 2010 10:35 am
- Just the numbers in order: 7
Post
by Colossal » Thu Mar 24, 2016 1:21 pm
The resistor should dampen the pop as it's from the difference in potential between the charged 680n cap and the unbypassed cathode. Hmmm, you might also try placing another 4M7 between NC and NO and see if that helps. The alternative to doing it the way you have now might be to locate the relay common to ground and place say 100-470k resistors "underneath" the 10k and the 2k7/680n, then, let the NC and NO connections bypass each 100k, letting them ground. The 100k under each cathode bypass choice is to lift it from ground when that resistor/cap choice is switched out. The 100k resistors would also keep a small path to ground to keep the cap on the 2k7/680n side charged.
-
white noise
- Senior Member
- Posts: 263
- Joined: Sat Jun 22, 2013 9:09 am
- Just the numbers in order: 13492
- Location: San Antonio Texas
Post
by white noise » Thu Mar 24, 2016 3:05 pm
Pop is still there.
I tried a 100K and also a 470K where the 100K is on the picture.
Seems like it would make a difference but notta!

-
Colossal
- New Member
- Posts: 40
- Joined: Sun Apr 25, 2010 10:35 am
- Just the numbers in order: 7
Post
by Colossal » Thu Mar 24, 2016 4:47 pm
Maddening!
The way you've drawn it is definitely the way I'd do it. You might measure to see if you have voltage in the switching path. You should not, but best to investigate. Also, depending on the proximity of the relay to the gain stage, the radiative field from the inductor may be bleeding into the signal path when it switches. Keep the relay as far from grid wires and coupling caps as possible.
-
white noise
- Senior Member
- Posts: 263
- Joined: Sat Jun 22, 2013 9:09 am
- Just the numbers in order: 13492
- Location: San Antonio Texas
Post
by white noise » Thu Mar 24, 2016 5:59 pm
-
planetjimi
- Senior Member
- Posts: 608
- Joined: Tue Mar 07, 2006 11:30 pm
Post
by planetjimi » Thu Mar 24, 2016 10:21 pm
I installed a dual master volume on my amp using a weber channel switching board. I have a pop also. I noticed that getting the power closer to the source helped a little bit (down by the power tubes vs. preamp tubes, but the pop is still there.
In my search for an answer I came across this thread on the weber forums with Ted Webers answer to this problem. I have not implemented it as I do not understand some of what it says, so I'll cut and paste it here. Hopefully you can understand it and make it work.
" When doing any kind of channel or signal path switching, it is extremely important that the DC level on all sides be kept the same. If they aren't, when you switch channels, the higher DC voltage level will draw current from the lower voltage and that transient will be translated to a pop or click.
So.... cap couple the signals to the relay contacts and put resistors to ground so that all sides of the switches are ground referenced.
If you still get a pop, you can actually build a small DC supply off the filament winding and with a pot, bias up those "pull down" resistors rather than putting them to ground. Oftentimes you can find the sweet spot where the clicking and popping will disappear completely."