'68 bare bones chassis kits
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Re: '68 bare bones chassis kits
Hey Art,
The 67/68 chassis uses the Amphenol power tube sockets.
DAVE
The 67/68 chassis uses the Amphenol power tube sockets.
DAVE
- axeman
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Re: '68 bare bones chassis kits
How about a chassis that will end up looking like this rear.
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Last edited by axeman on Fri Jan 14, 2011 2:32 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- axeman
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Re: '68 bare bones chassis kits
I know Dave, I can't find them at CE.Woolly Mammoth wrote:Hey Art,
The 67/68 chassis uses the Amphenol power tube sockets.
DAVE
Thanks
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Re: '68 bare bones chassis kits
Try here:
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-AMPHENOL-K8A-8- ... 35ae568af7" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Matt
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-AMPHENOL-K8A-8- ... 35ae568af7" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Matt
- S.Marshall
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Re: '68 bare bones chassis kits
I was staying away from doing this chassis till I heard if you were cool with it George. Guess you are so I'll get serious about it. I don't need your CAD and I won't reverse engineer your chassis.VelvetGeorge wrote:I apologize to those who wanted one of these an didn't get it. I thought they would take a few days to sell, not a few hours!
It's clear that there is demand for these. If one of the people who have talked about offering them doesn't come through, I'll make it a priority to make these available. Maybe it could be a group buy thing or a pre-order deal. We can work it out in a few months, if necessary.
What I will not do is give away my CAD files. Several people have requested this. I have a lot into this information, with disassembling my original '67 Superlead, hiring an engineer to create the 3D model, convert to 2D and dimension. Not to mention this chassis is still used in my 10,000 and 12,000 Series amps.
I'll ask that if someone does make a version of this chassis that you not reverse engineer mine. Go out and get an original, make it authentic. Otherwise, you'll ensure that mine are no longer made available.
Thanks!
george
I'll work on the details and let everyone know.
-Steve
- axeman
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Re: '68 bare bones chassis kits
I all ready turned in the cad to three companies, just waiting.
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Re: '68 bare bones chassis kits
Cool! I'll still put some numbers together. I don't need to look for a company.
-Steve
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Re: '68 bare bones chassis kits
Ok would a voltage selector be a good idea on the 67/68 chassi?
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Re: '68 bare bones chassis kits
I don't know... but looking at the pic you posted above... it almost looks like the modern impedance and voltage selectors would fit in the same mounting and screw holes? Somebody here knows for sure.
The power cord connection is another thing?
The power cord connection is another thing?
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Re: '68 bare bones chassis kits
I will start making chassis with the voltage selector and ac cord.
- neikeel
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Re: '68 bare bones chassis kits
The holes for the voltage and impedence selectors on originals are slightly smaller than those which use the modern rotary selectors.vh junkie wrote:I don't know... but looking at the pic you posted above... it almost looks like the modern impedance and voltage selectors would fit in the same mounting and screw holes? Somebody here knows for sure.
The power cord connection is another thing?
I punch the holes out at 25mm (1 inch would be perfect too) as both the paxolin wafer and the window selectors fit well. I cannot remember the size you need for the modern ones - probably 27.5mm.
The bulgin hole is 25mm too.
Personally I would want a chassis exactly as the original, not modern selectors - you can always go up in size but putting metal back is more difficult

Neil
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Re: '68 bare bones chassis kits
My vote is for no voltage selector...keeps the cost down. You can easily do a makeshift voltage selector on the inside, and who among us tours the world regularly anyway?
I prefer modern cutouts too, as those original selectors are made of unobtainium, and steel is hard to work on if you want to enlarge the holes. I'd be willing to accomodate neikeel's wishes there, though.
Lastly, the power cord....the absolute best would be if the chassis could be punched on request, for either Bulgin or IEC connectors. Bulgin would probably be the best if we did one size fits all. There are IEC plugs available which would at least fit a Bulgin size hole, plus the hardwire types could use a preamp hole cover and just drill a hole in that.

I prefer modern cutouts too, as those original selectors are made of unobtainium, and steel is hard to work on if you want to enlarge the holes. I'd be willing to accomodate neikeel's wishes there, though.

Lastly, the power cord....the absolute best would be if the chassis could be punched on request, for either Bulgin or IEC connectors. Bulgin would probably be the best if we did one size fits all. There are IEC plugs available which would at least fit a Bulgin size hole, plus the hardwire types could use a preamp hole cover and just drill a hole in that.
JTM45 RS OT, 1973 18W, JTM45/100, JTM50, JMP50 1986, JMP100 "West Coast", AC15, AC30, BF Super Reverb, Boogie Mk 1, Hiwatt CP103, DR103
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Re: '68 bare bones chassis kits
Oh, and I would really love a 50W chassis to go with the 100... 

JTM45 RS OT, 1973 18W, JTM45/100, JTM50, JMP50 1986, JMP100 "West Coast", AC15, AC30, BF Super Reverb, Boogie Mk 1, Hiwatt CP103, DR103
- axeman
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Re: '68 bare bones chassis kits
Okay, so no voltage selector, but yes to the AC plug. "No cord" that would not look rite, some guys in the euro countries might whant a voltage selector.
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Re: '68 bare bones chassis kits
If someone really needs a voltage selector, they can drill it out. I would say 90%+ will be USA customers. No need. Authentic looking repros would be nice for a "perfect" replica but I think we know by know that we are not "MARSHALL" and what we are doing is making the amp better than it was, and more appealing the the end user. I had another chassis made by a friend of mine in the CNC business. I left the selector out.