Oh fuck, I just gave myself away!vh junkie wrote:Strat78 wrote: I want one of those too. your eyes must be almost as old as mine!

Moderator: VelvetGeorge
Oh fuck, I just gave myself away!vh junkie wrote:Strat78 wrote: I want one of those too. your eyes must be almost as old as mine!
Just PM me Ill show you how I built the cradle. Pretty easy with stuff from Home Depot. Cost about maybe $20 but I made it adjustable for different chasis sizes.Strat78 wrote:10 days including weekends, so I'm in good shape there. Are there any extra resisters that I should order now that will help when I inevitably burn up the ones that come with the kit? Should I use a heat clamp when soldering? Are there any diagrams for a tried and true cradle (I think yours looks pretty good)? For biasing, I was thinking of the ones that plugs into the tube sockets. I remember Dave Freedman mentioned that he is not in favor of the resistor between the tube socket and the ground for biasing (changes tone?) so I would like to bias the old fashion way for now. I think I've got a pretty good multi ($60). My soldering gun seems ok, but it needs a new tip. What's the best soldering tip to use? Also I think I should get one of those nice lights with the big magnifying glass, where do you get those? The only experience I have thus far is doing Rockstahs Marshall mod to a Valve Junior, so this should be interesting. Thanks for all the help guys. There is a "School Of Rock" opening down the street and they are having an open house, will check it out.vanhalen5150 wrote:10 working days, or 10 including weekends. Yeah, thats normal. Build and amp cradle yet? Got the supplies?Strat78 wrote:I haven't forgot, but I'm still waiting for my kit (been waiting 10 days, is that normal?). Meanwhile I've prepared my entire basement for the damn things arrival.Where can I get a good biasing kit?
By a biasing kit I assume you mean a multi-tester? Just that and a small flat head screwdriver. Dont get one of those $15 multi's either. Thats what I had eairlier in the thread and it was all over the place. False readings and voltage fuxuations. Some may work well but as soon as the battery starts to weaken, they go haywire. I got a better one at Home Depot for about $60. You'll be using it a lot so dont be cheap there. Build an amp worth a few thousand dollars and its based on a cheapo multi? Naw.
I was checking the bias after about every 1/2 hour of play. Initially it was increasing a bit but has since settled. Vhjunkie was very helpfull with that. Following a hotter tube and getting a good happy medium between all of those is really key for a well ballanced sound. You can easily tell the difference now between a cold and hot biased amp after messing with this stuff.
I'll take a look at that!vanhalen5150 wrote:You guys mean one of these? I got this at Wallmart for $14.
No one knows less about corks than me! I went for a set when Gerrit was selling a few a while back... Don't knock it till you've tried all three! More tone bang for your buck than doing the CC resistor thing (unless you like hiss)!vanhalen5150 wrote: As far as the whole cap thing goes.....mmmmm...sniff a bit more I guess.
Can't really see the source of the heaters. Common practice is to elevate the ref voltage or do DC to quiet things down.vanhalen5150 wrote: Smoothest, quietest amps I've ever heard are the Blankenship Variplex series. Big ass square Xicon caps and carbon films resistors. Hmmmmm....... see how the heaters are done...makes you wonder doesn't it?
Can't argue with that! I'm just trying to relate some of the stuff I've gone thru and relate what I have heard said repeatedly after thousands of hours here!... would never intentionally steer you guys wrong!vanhalen5150 wrote: Before any self indulged builders get the undies in a bunch, R.B doesn't care about posting pics.
I'm just saying that if you are thinking about trying the NOS route now seems to be the best time economy wise. I would try to email to Gerritt, or Mark to see his source, most of the other stuff I see on the bay has problems voltage or value wise. The darn .022uf are going for up to $40 apiece... perhaps put a "wanted" ad in the Member Classified and get a PM...Strat78 wrote: Oh fuck, I just gave myself away!Anyway, thanks for the great advise! I like the idea of vintage mustards but perhaps I'm not sure why: Plexifield has always said that these are not high fi sound systems that we are going for here. What I want is something with allot of character that is very rough around the edges. Are vintage Sozo's better high fi or are NOS mustards just better work horses that can stand up to the abuse?
vh junkie wrote:I'll take a look at that!vanhalen5150 wrote:You guys mean one of these? I got this at Wallmart for $14.No one knows less about corks than me! I went for a set when Gerrit was selling a few a while back... Don't knock it till you've tried all three! More tone bang for your buck than doing the CC resistor thing (unless you like hiss)!vanhalen5150 wrote: As far as the whole cap thing goes.....mmmmm...sniff a bit more I guess.
Can't really see the source of the heaters. Common practice is to elevate the ref voltage or do DC to quiet things down.vanhalen5150 wrote: Smoothest, quietest amps I've ever heard are the Blankenship Variplex series. Big ass square Xicon caps and carbon films resistors. Hmmmmm....... see how the heaters are done...makes you wonder doesn't it?
Can't argue with that! I'm just trying to relate some of the stuff I've gone thru and relate what I have heard said repeatedly after thousands of hours here!... would never intentionally steer you guys wrong!vanhalen5150 wrote: Before any self indulged builders get the undies in a bunch, R.B doesn't care about posting pics.
Mustards = baddass toting a heavy load on the edge of cliff of destructionWhy is that guy carrying wood?
naw, just a shempy secretary schlepping papers made from the wood that the baddass toted on the edge of the cliff of destruction generations ago.Is that girl the bass player from the muppet's?
I think that can be from the tubes. Set your hotplate to load, and listen again...vanhalen5150 wrote:I had heard she was based on Tom Petty.![]()
Secondly, when I have the thing dim'd I can hear a "fizzy" sound coming from somewhere directly in the amp, not through the speaker. It only makes this sound when a note is struck. Had it running through a hotplate. Doesn't affect the sound.
Set HP to load. Sound only comes from somewhere when a note is struck. Hard to tell where. Tubes eh?Vegard wrote:I think that can be from the tubes. Set your hotplate to load, and listen again...vanhalen5150 wrote:I had heard she was based on Tom Petty.![]()
Secondly, when I have the thing dim'd I can hear a "fizzy" sound coming from somewhere directly in the amp, not through the speaker. It only makes this sound when a note is struck. Had it running through a hotplate. Doesn't affect the sound.
I hear that too, partly 'cause I'm hanging over the chassis listening for every tweak. I hear it when my Ultimate Attenuator is WAY down, like only hearing the chassis itself. I don't think it's much to worry about, just that magical distortion that's amplified when your running at real load. Then you wouldn't hear it at whisper volume.Secondly, when I have the thing dim'd I can hear a "fizzy" sound coming from somewhere directly in the amp, not through the speaker. It only makes this sound when a note is struck. Had it running through a hotplate. Doesn't affect the sound.
Good idea, make a board the size of the chassis base, staple line it with sheet aluminum, then just cap the chassis with it when you're testing/listening. Note to self.Plus the whole thing is open with no sheilding. Definately need to make something to place on top of this for testing. Dont really think putting it back in the box to check everytime is a reasonable option.