Metropoulos Forum

Hi folks,

I´m Waiting for transformers (Marstran) and sozo caps to start this build. By the Way, what amazing awesome head shell from ValveStorm.

I´m considering to solder the jumpers and wires on top of the board, btw, bought a new board case i change my mind. This will be the first tube amp ever and i´ll assembling a 100W kit too in another chassi and head.

I will post the pictures. Need a lot help.

http://s14.postimg.org/jk7ivro3k/IMG_20 ... 326946.jpg
http://s14.postimg.org/74fefrk5c/IMG_20 ... 39_HDR.jpg
http://s14.postimg.org/lwfitd0ow/IMG_20 ... 404019.jpg
http://s14.postimg.org/a9qteho00/IMG_20 ... 12_HDR.jpg
http://s14.postimg.org/w2o4ccl34/IMG_20 ... 257645.jpg
http://s14.postimg.org/8aet0tj28/IMG_20 ... 53_HDR.jpg

thanks

Glad to see that all the goodies arrived. Take pictures of everything... especially any under-board wiring. You can start on the boards while you wait for the trannies. See the pics here for the wire lengths on the boards:
http://forum.metroamp.com/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=34892
AND
Build instructions we all used are in this thread:
http://forum.metroamp.com/viewtopic.php ... 1&start=40

First, what kind of solder equipment are you using? Second, as Neil would say, make sure you fallow the classic color code for the wires, this will help you identify things down the road. Now is the time to decide which grounding scheme you will use so you can drill the chassis if necessary. This is always fun!

ValveStorm,

thanks! i will start w the board. And take pic of everything.

Strat78,

First, what kind of solder equipment are you using?

solder iron, temperature controlled. this
http://www.casamirandaeletron.com.br/me ... _dekel.jpg

Goonies wrote:ValveStorm,

thanks! i will start w the board. And take pic of everything.

Strat78,

First, what kind of solder equipment are you using?

solder iron, temperature controlled. this
http://www.casamirandaeletron.com.br/me ... _dekel.jpg

That one looks decent, but I've had no trouble with this one going on four years now:
http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WES51-Anal ... r+stations
Really like the radio shack .032" 60/40 solder too. Buy the biggest roll you can and just cut off ten inch sections at a time. How is your eyesight, because this requires allot of up close inspection. A magnifying lamp is a must for the long run.

The solder is real important... don't want something that is spraying beads of flux everywhere when you use it.
Somebody gave me a roll of this stuff... its works really well and NO flux spray
Kester
63/37 #50245
.31” dia
Part# 2463378800
The 63/37 is the tin to lead ratio... you would probably have to look at the spec sheets to see how much flux is inside.

If its your first build, I would solder on top of the board. Once everything is together its much easier to trouble shoot on a first build. It also lets you see how everything is connected. And you won't be saying "FOR FLYING FLUX SAKES!" if it doesn't power up on the first go.

Strat78,

i´m using this:

http://mlb-s1-p.mlstatic.com/lupa-de-me ... 6167-O.jpg

i can see the cells of my skin and is fixed into the desk. Very cool.

vanhalen5150 wrote:If its your first build, I would solder on top of the board. Once everything is together its much easier to trouble shoot on a first build. It also lets you see how everything is connected. And you won't be saying "FOR FLYING FLUX SAKES!" if it doesn't power up on the first go.

I will do it. jumpers wires on top.

I ´m not finding a post that teach how to cut the fillaments wires. has a cool technique. btw still do not have cutting pliers also important part as well.

thanks!

You will start with the heater wires so here is a great vid from George.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PobbQbOr8sQ
There is a great vid on soldering technique that was posted here somewhere. It stressed the importance of not using too much solder. It was posted around four months ago, I will look for it.

I soldered on V2A cathode a 220uF(sprague) capacitor, but NightOwl installed .68uF. which of these is better or right?

I soldered on V2B cathode a 100K2W resistor. I saw nightOwl with 1 W here. Could keep 2W or change to 1W ?

follow the layout PDF 68 posted on the forum. btw, is this layout a larry ground mode?

http://postimg.org/image/ragnd1kor/
http://postimg.org/image/8yul9n1ff/
http://postimg.org/image/3r4wrfvgb/
http://postimg.org/image/ith524fzv/
http://postimg.org/image/8ah5cydbv/
http://postimg.org/image/dqzt7c6pn/full/
http://postimg.org/image/unthdi3nf/full/
http://postimg.org/image/f5hq2bbln/full/
http://postimg.org/image/jotyntth7/full/
http://postimg.org/image/54cvszyij/full/

thanks

Strat78 wrote:You will start with the heater wires so here is a great vid from George.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PobbQbOr8sQ
There is a great vid on soldering technique that was posted here somewhere. It stressed the importance of not using too much solder. It was posted around four months ago, I will look for it.

thanks!!

I take it your building a Super Bass-Super Lead hybrid? For V2a a 0.68uF bypass cap is "standard" for a '68 Super Lead, whereas the 220uF bypass cap is a modification based on Van Halen's amp....Typically referred to as a "fat cap".
For V2b it does not matter if the 100K resistor is a 1 watt or 2 watt. The only reason must people use a 1 watt carbon film resistor here is because new production 1/2 watt carbon film resistors do not have long enough leads to span the turret board.

I think ValveStorm has some 100k AB CC's that can reach, I like CC's in that spot.
http://valvestorm.com/Products/Componen ... bon%20Comp

Yes, the 100k CC work well here. Also found some 2watt CFs that just barely reach all the way across the board:
http://valvestorm.com/Products/Componen ... bon%20Film

I just wish I could get them in the 820 and 8.2k values too...