Mike that doesnt seem right - please tell us the big secret. i just solder the lugs - no need to solder the housing. but come on - that is no secret to keep if it is some magical solution. plus u want to charge 20 bucks - give us a break over here!mightymike wrote:I solder the backs off the PEC pots, but the guy that showed me how, made me promise not to tell how.rtcook wrote:Has anyone tried soldering to the PEC pots? Can it be done? Seems as though I read somewhere that one of the pots was not solderable.
Thanks,
Roger
But if you want I'll sell you a presoldered PEC pot assembly (with 18guage buss) with the .1 Mustard for $20 more than parts, plus shipping.
Or you can buy the parts, send them to me, and just pay me 20 for doing it. Plus shipping.
Soldering Pots?
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There are no secrets on this forum Give it up!mightymike wrote:I solder the backs off the PEC pots, but the guy that showed me how, made me promise not to tell how.rtcook wrote:Has anyone tried soldering to the PEC pots? Can it be done? Seems as though I read somewhere that one of the pots was not solderable.
Thanks,
Roger
But if you want I'll sell you a presoldered PEC pot assembly (with 18guage buss) with the .1 Mustard for $20 more than parts, plus shipping.
Or you can buy the parts, send them to me, and just pay me 20 for doing it. Plus shipping.
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I already gave it up for him.......... It's really pretty straightforward........Guitar Adjuster wrote:There are no secrets on this forum Give it up!mightymike wrote:I solder the backs off the PEC pots, but the guy that showed me how, made me promise not to tell how.rtcook wrote:Has anyone tried soldering to the PEC pots? Can it be done? Seems as though I read somewhere that one of the pots was not solderable.
Thanks,
Roger
But if you want I'll sell you a presoldered PEC pot assembly (with 18guage buss) with the .1 Mustard for $20 more than parts, plus shipping.
Or you can buy the parts, send them to me, and just pay me 20 for doing it. Plus shipping.
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I promised not to tell and keep my word.rockstah wrote:Mike that doesnt seem right - please tell us the big secret. i just solder the lugs - no need to solder the housing. but come on - that is no secret to keep if it is some magical solution. plus u want to charge 20 bucks - give us a break over here!mightymike wrote:I solder the backs off the PEC pots, but the guy that showed me how, made me promise not to tell how.rtcook wrote:Has anyone tried soldering to the PEC pots? Can it be done? Seems as though I read somewhere that one of the pots was not solderable.
Thanks,
Roger
But if you want I'll sell you a presoldered PEC pot assembly (with 18guage buss) with the .1 Mustard for $20 more than parts, plus shipping.
Or you can buy the parts, send them to me, and just pay me 20 for doing it. Plus shipping.
But people ask me how to do it, so I thought I might offer a way for them to get one. I like the way it looks, but it's not for everyone.
I didn't think $20 was that much for the labor, to build it, treat it, and package it.
Sorry
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Here's a pic, and I have never taken the backs off.rtcook wrote:Show us a picture of what it looks like please.
Roger
http://mightymike12000.home.comcast.net ... ecpots.jpg
Ignore the way the .1 is, That was an experiment,
I run it to the middle tab, and run the end tab to ground like normal., but I can also build them with 4.7k/.68uf 73 style with the 25k.
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I take it this is to prevent overheating the elements inside the pot? How high do you guys have to crank your irons to solder to stainless steel? I'm using PECs in my current built but ended up just soldering a bussbar to the bottom of my turretboard on the pot side. Quite a cramped way to work.Flames1950 wrote:Yup........Guitar Adjuster wrote:Ok Flames I get it, take the back off, solder on the buss then put the pot back together, right?
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With my technique, I have never hurt a pot soldering the back.
I have a real nice Hakko soldering Iron, and it doesn't take long on 850, after I've prepped it right. That's the key.
Yeah it's cosemetic in that it looks like something out of a WW2 miltary equipment. To me it's stout looking with the 18guage, and I like it.
But the Pots George has, look even more accurate to the orginals, and are easier to solder to the backs, if accuracy to the originals is your goal.
And it will sound the same running it through the terminals or soldering the back.,
I've done all my amps like this except my first 1st, and a restore, and I have never had a pot fail, and my earlier ones I wasn't as good at it, and
applied heat longer.
Now I'm really quick.
4 to 5 seconds tops.
I don't try to cover the whole back, like used to.
I have a real nice Hakko soldering Iron, and it doesn't take long on 850, after I've prepped it right. That's the key.
Yeah it's cosemetic in that it looks like something out of a WW2 miltary equipment. To me it's stout looking with the 18guage, and I like it.
But the Pots George has, look even more accurate to the orginals, and are easier to solder to the backs, if accuracy to the originals is your goal.
And it will sound the same running it through the terminals or soldering the back.,
I've done all my amps like this except my first 1st, and a restore, and I have never had a pot fail, and my earlier ones I wasn't as good at it, and
applied heat longer.
Now I'm really quick.
4 to 5 seconds tops.
I don't try to cover the whole back, like used to.
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- rockstah
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oo i like that look! but where and how are the pots grounded? btw what circuit is this? ...the phase inverter circuit is intriguing.NitroLiq wrote:I think a lot of it is personal preference, Mark. Some solder to the pot backs, others run it through the pot lugs (as you already know), and others solder it to the bottom of the turretboard like this.