The amp is DONE!!!!! WHOO HOO!!!

cole · Post by **cole** » Mon Jun 09, 2008 9:37 am

I edited the above for the noted correction - thanks.

chubs · Post by **chubs** » Mon Jun 09, 2008 3:22 pm

is that brass he soldered with...?

cole · Post by **cole** » Mon Jun 09, 2008 3:33 pm

Nah...it's just the color of paint he used to replicate what they did with old Marshalls but he's using a bronze/gold shade instead of red (red is what you'd see in 60's Marshalls on the solder joins)...it's probably Glyptal in gold color or something similar.

I really don't like it too much...hides the detail.

chubs · Post by **chubs** » Mon Jun 09, 2008 3:36 pm

So what was the spacing on your turret board holes? I did on with 1cm squrare and only get 6 holes per colum

cole · Post by **cole** » Mon Jun 09, 2008 4:35 pm

3/8" on center from hole to hole.

Froumy · Post by **Froumy** » Mon Jun 09, 2008 4:58 pm

Wow! Clean, beautiful build! I just looked at it for the 3rd time. That settles it, I'm never showing pics of mine.

. Good inspiration for the next one. Nice work! Love that board, too.

Krinkle · Post by **Krinkle** » Tue Jun 10, 2008 1:37 pm

Just beautiful Cole. Your Brother owes you one.

Thanks for the Udo tip, I didn't know that.

Darrin

chubs · Post by **chubs** » Tue Jun 10, 2008 2:10 pm

For those curious, this is what he means by flying resistor

http://www.ceriatone.com/images/layoutP ... iatone.jpg

cole · Post by **cole** » Wed Jun 11, 2008 8:19 pm

One last photo...after I finally installed a logo...

Cheers

!
Cole

Lucid7 · Post by **Lucid7** » Fri Jun 13, 2008 10:01 am

Holy Cats! Beautiful work! Nice Job!

cole · Post by **cole** » Fri Jun 13, 2008 11:23 am

Thanks Darren!

I've gotten the bug again for more builds..

My next will be very soon I hope.

cole · Post by **cole** » Fri Jun 13, 2008 3:31 pm

Just wanted to make a few notes/tips on the build:

Soldering:

I use smaller diameter Kester 60/40 on almost all connections except on the tube sockets where I use standard size solder, which requires just a dab on a hot joint and makes it easier to solder in vertical positions without it running over all creation and making a messy connection.

I use a 35 watt Weller and keep a very wet cloth (not paper towel) nearby to clean the iron's tip just before I work on a join/connection. I use a small chiseltip tip and replace after each build. Get a holder for the iron - it's a must.

Amp Cradle:

An amp cradle is essential - no one who does a build once without one will do a second build without it. make one out of a bit of plywood and some strapping.

Masking:

Mask off the front and rear panels with green or blue masking tape to prevent anything from happening such as dropping a soldering iron onto them, solder flux, etc. Also they have sharp corners and it's less a chance you'll get snagged. Ouch!

Straightening Component Leads:

Use some hardwood or an aluminum carpenter's square (something hard and flat) against a hardwood cutting board (used as a base) and let the component body sit just outside the edge of the board while 'rolling' the component lead straight using short strokes. Repeat for the other end of the component. You'll get dead nuts straight leads which improve the look of the build.

Ricky Lee · Post by **Ricky Lee** » Fri Jun 13, 2008 3:51 pm

Ricky Lee · Post by **Ricky Lee** » Fri Jun 13, 2008 3:52 pm

chubs · Post by **chubs** » Mon Jun 16, 2008 7:54 am

GREAT advice on the rolling leads to get the straight... I never though of that... THANKS!!!