FX loops coming to Metro.

[budubum]

ty all ty.

now. to get this loop to my place as fast. then it wont ship b4 dec 1st

[Tone_Chaser]

I don't know how I missed this thread until now. This is exactly what I've been wanting for my 2nd mod. Was just getting ready to build the Larry Loop but this seems much easier and quicker to install and since I'm finishing the basement right now I have a limited amount of time I can spend with my hands in the amp!

I'm glad to hear such good things about this loop. There are certain effects that I prefer to run through a loop and am looking forward to this additioin.

Thanks to Steve & Gerorge for the development and addition of this loop to the store!

[budubum]

i have a question.

b4 installing this FX loop. do is still need to gut out stuff inside my amp other than tubes and put a cloth over the PTP baord to protect its components?

[SDM]

Well you don't want bits of metal falling in the chassis from drilling, but you do not need to remove or gut anything, only discharge the caps. Pulling tubes is wise of course, but remember to reinstall them before firing up to test the loop.

The way you drill is up to you, but can just tape in a "tray" around the back panel area (inside the amp) where you drill to catch/collect metal bits, then lift out after finished drilling/deburring holes. A doubled up/folded piece of paper towel would do or some regular paper to make the tray. Whatever works for you.

If concerned about going too far with a longer bit and hitting the board or board components, use a little block of wood inside chassis to drill into, stop you from going too far. This will also help keep metal bits from falling inside amp if wood piece is clamped and flush. If clamped though, use some wood over the plexi panel as well to spread out clamp force distribution, and don't clamp too tight to avoid damaging or marring the plexi panel.

Both of the above with the chassis sitting upright will let gravity help drop any metal bits to your work surface.

Any way just some ideas for you there, just common sense kinda stuff, but there's no need to remove or gut anything (aside from removing tubes to protect them while drilling chassis). If any metal bits do fall in the chassis, just be sure to clear them out before firing up.

[budubum]

Well you don't want bits of metal falling in the chassis from drilling, but you do not need to remove or gut anything, only discharge the caps. Pulling tubes is wise of course, but remember to reinstall them before firing up to test the loop.

The way you drill is up to you, but can just tape in a "tray" around the back panel area (inside the amp) where you drill to catch/collect metal bits, then lift out after finished drilling/deburring holes. A doubled up/folded piece of paper towel would do or some regular paper to make the tray. Whatever works for you.

If concerned about going too far with a longer bit and hitting the board or board components, use a little block of wood inside chassis to drill into, stop you from going too far. This will also help keep metal bits from falling inside amp if wood piece is clamped and flush. If clamped though, use some wood over the plexi panel as well to spread out clamp force distribution, and don't clamp too tight to avoid damaging or marring the plexi panel.

Both of the above with the chassis sitting upright will let gravity help drop any metal bits to your work surface.

Any way just some ideas for you there, just common sense kinda stuff, but there's no need to remove or gut anything (aside from removing tubes to protect them while drilling chassis). If any metal bits do fall in the chassis, just be sure to clear them out before firing up.

thanks man..

iv just got an idea.

ill put cloth inside the amp to cover everything, and clap a small wood behind the would be place to drill inside the amp. so the bit wont fall ill use a hand clamp.

[joshwilson3]

Or just put a piece of thick vacuum hose on the bit with just the tip exposed. That way there is no way you can drill any further.

[SDM]

Minor revisions to instructions: Here

[joshwilson3]

On that mini DPDT switch. Is that ON/ON?

I was thinking of getting one with a short pole so it won't stick so far out the back of the chassis.

[SDM]

Comes with the switch, and it has a short lever to avoid getting it bumped damaged/sticking out too far. Don't think you'll find much shorter. Yeah on-on (or on-none-on) type.

[joshwilson3]

Comes with the switch, and it has a short lever to avoid getting it bumped damaged/sticking out too far. Don't think you'll find much shorter. Yeah on-on (or on-none-on) type.

Ok, thanks. Yeah, I've seen some that are real short. Like the mini toggles on the front of those Mesa heads.

[VelvetGeorge]

I'm finishing up the first batch of loops today. I still have to test them.
The first few are shipping today. More to follow ASAP.

george

[Krinkle]

I can't wait, where am I on the list?

Darrin

[VelvetGeorge]

Just got off the phone with Steve. There is on concern and one other parts that will hold us up one extra day on these. He's coming up to the shop tomorrow and we're going to sort it out.

We have 11 pre-orders for these and 11 boards built and ready for testing. So if all goes well, everyone's boards go out Wednesday morning. I apologize for the delay.

george

[Krinkle]

I can live with that. I'm going to call tomorrow and add some stuff to my order though.

Darrin

[SDM]

My fault on the delay, omitted a part needed from the list I gave to George. I have the needed parts here though, so George will have them by tomorrow evening when we meet. The kits will be ready to go very very soon after. So first kits should be going out as George said on Wednesday.

Sorry about this slight delay guys, again my fault entirely. This won't cause future delays, just a one time thing here.