At my wits end - Action and buzzing

[rgorke]

Ok, I had several frets that were buzzing and a bit higher than others. I got lots of help from folks on leveling and crowning, thanks for that.

BUT, now I am frustrated that I can't get the action where I think it should be. My G string buzzes all the way up the neck and when I raise the action, it feels like it is mile off the fingerboard. I have adjusted the truss in both directions. I have even switched out the nut to no avail.

I love the tone of this guitar but the action and set up are driving me nuts.

any and all suggestion are welcome. I would hate to relent and actually PAY someone to set up my guitar.

[T.L.]

Okay, if the frets are truly level, if the neck is not warped, if the truss rod (neck relief) is properly adjusted, if the nut is properly set up, and if the bridge saddle height is properly set, there should be no significant buzzing.

One of those factors is obviously off. Without seeing your guitar in-person, it's impossible foe me to tell you which...

[Ted B]

Can you measure the distance between the bottom of the 'G' string and the 1st fret?

[rgorke]

I don't have any feeler gauges. It appears that not only the g string but most, if not all of mine are buzzing up the neck.

I did a quick recording. Am I over reacting? It really annoys me.

[Ted B]

You're not overreacting. That audio clip sounds bad.

I just built a guitar. I also bought several hundred $$ worth of hand tools and gauges from Stew Mac. I didn't want to buy those, but they'll pay for themselves. Why? Because great action is a game of fractions of a mm, and barring anything unusual, I'll never again need to pay anyone else to do what I can do myself.

I suggest getting a few helpful items, such as feeler gauges and a string action gauge. Also get a proper straight edge if you don't already have one. Without those, it's hard to figure out what's going on. Unlike eyeballs, measurements don't lie. I know I invested quite a bit of time fine tuning the depth and radius contour of the string slots on the nut. I also invested a fair amount of time in getting the individual saddle heights matched to that and intonated, and I'm still not done ...

[somethin'else]

Ah, and this is why I said I don't like having my guitar down for a couple of days!

Wait, so you leveled and crowned the frets?

THEN you changed the nut?

How about, if you press at the 2nd fret, is there any air under the string as it lays over the first fret? The should be a canthair of air between the string and the 1st fret, between the nut and the fretted 2nd fret. If not, that could be culprit as to what your overall height is, all starting at the nut. Too low and you're bottomed out. As you press the string on the 2nd fret, you want to see the string just lay over the 1st fret, with a wee bit of movement almost hardly noticeable as you depress it to check.

Can you put the old nut back on and check that?

Did you do the black marker / take it easy on leveling stuff?

Is your neck / truss really straight? Any relief, looking down the neck from the nut to the saddles?

When you put the new nut on, how much did you change your saddles' height? Raise 'em or lower 'em?

Are you wearing hiking shoes or slippers? This can greatly affect things!

[MrBeasty]

I don't have any feeler gauges. It appears that not only the g string but most, if not all of mine are buzzing up the neck.

I did a quick recording. Am I over reacting? It really annoys me.

You're best playing to date! Congrats!

PS: ... I know a guy!

[rgorke]

I don't have any feeler gauges. It appears that not only the g string but most, if not all of mine are buzzing up the neck.

I did a quick recording. Am I over reacting? It really annoys me.

You're best playing to date! Congrats!

PS: ... I know a guy!

Thanks man, I've been shedding a lot.

I may have to take you up on your "guy" but I feel like it would be surrendering and giving up.

[Ted B]

No need to give up. You just need the right tools to finish the job like a pro.:

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Speci ... p_Kit.html

Best $90 you've spent on your guitar. Get this, and I will personally walk you through resolving your problems and getting that guitar playing correctly.

[somethin'else]

No need to give up. You just need the right tools to finish the job like a pro.:

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Speci ... p_Kit.html

Best $90 you've spent on your guitar. Get this, and I will personally walk you through resolving your problems and getting that guitar playing correctly.

+1

Take it easy Roger. You have a backup to play for a minute? Relax and focus on 'er. I know dude's "knock this stuff out in 10 minutes" but 1st timers gotta slow down and think about all the pieces that make your action right.

•Nut slot depth/height, string height leaving the nut towards the saddles
•Truss adjust, straight with a little relief
•Neck pitch, pocket adjust - should be flat/square with no pitch
•Saddle height
•Frets leveled while neck is straight

[rgorke]

Thanks guys, I do have a couple others that are definitely playable. I have one that the action, etc is perfect for me and am using that as the standard.

One thing that I think I need to double check is the neck pocket. When I got this neck, I had to drill the holes for bolting it on. It was also a tight fit and at first I didn't drill deep enough and the neck wasn't quite flush. I need to examine how it fits in the neck pocket and make sure that it doesn't sit screwy in there.

Fortunately, the frets on this thing are beyond huge. So, if I mess up, there is room work rather than the frets being the small vintage type where there is little room for error.

I do have a lot of that stuff in that Stew Mac kit but I needs a good straight edge to start.

Cheers.

[YMI5150?]

forgive me if i've missed this detail but what is the overall setup? which bridge? neck radius? if those two dont match up, then you're chasing your tail.

have you verified that when you adjust the truss rod that something actually happens?

edit: if its a floyd, make sure the saddles are in the correct order so the radius is even and that they are shimmed if necessary to match the radius of the fingerboard.

[rgorke]

forgive me if i've missed this detail but what is the overall setup? which bridge? neck radius? if those two dont match up, then you're chasing your tail.

have you verified that when you adjust the truss rod that something actually happens?

edit: if its a floyd, make sure the saddles are in the correct order so the radius is even and that they are shimmed if necessary to match the radius of the fingerboard.

Strat with Callaham Bridge. Not sure of the neck radius.

Yes, I can tell the truss rod does work...at least I am 97.5% sure.

The fact that I had a few frets buzzing and now the buzz up the neck tells me, or I think it tells me that I did a reasonable job of fret leveling. Or does it?

[Ted B]

Strat with Callaham Bridge. Not sure of the neck radius.

The fact that I had a few frets buzzing and now the buzz up the neck tells me, or I think it tells me that I did a reasonable job of fret leveling. Or does it?

For starters, the truss rod needs to be adjusted such that the neck is dead nuts straight before the frets are leveled. Without a real straight edge, this is a crapshoot.

The nut needs to have the slots cut consistently to a certain height above the first fret, or else. That height needs to follow the radius at the nut. Feeler gauges pinned down to match the radius at the first fret tell the tale.

With the guitar tuned to pitch, the neck relief needs to be judged at the 7th fret and properly adjusted. Too little relief causes buzz at the lower frets (e.g. 5-7). To much causes buzz at the upper frets (e.g. 12-17).

The bridge saddle height should be adjusted such that each string follows the radius at the nut.

If all this is done to exactly measurements, you'll have great, buzz-free action. If not, you'll get something less.

The proper tools make the job a straightforward affair. Once you have them and realize the success that comes with understanding how to use them, you will want to use them to rework the setup on all your guitars.

[YMI5150?]

I would agree with Ted but I would base everything off the fingerboard. have the nut and the bridge match that as close as possilble.

assuming the saddles are setup correctly and you have matching radii, and you've slotted the nut correctly, its either truss rod or neck angle.

capo 1st fret, fret 13th fret and put a .007 or so feeler gauge under the 7th fret. if the clearance is roughly good, your truss rod is correct and its the neck angle.