MetroAmp 12 series Turret Jumpers, back or front?

Goonies · Post by **Goonies** » Fri Jan 30, 2015 4:56 pm

Hi Folks,

I have a question about the jumpers on turret board. I recent purchased all parts from valvestorm, and the turret board does not have holes to pass the wires. My question is:

Where is the best place to solder the jumpers, in the back or front?

George solder in the back. and all the wires too. Is this more easy to change some components?

if wires has been soldered in the back, could the wires be inserted to reach the top of turrets?

thanks!

Post by **ValveStorm** » Fri Jan 30, 2015 5:17 pm

Wires are connected to the back.
Strip 3/8" of insulation off the ends of the wires, fold the bare wire in half to make a V, insert the V into the hole and solder it in place.

This might help as well:
http://www.mediafire.com/download/uj79s ... ghtOwl.zip

danman · Post by **danman** » Fri Jan 30, 2015 5:24 pm

It is best to solder your jumpers on top of the board. If you have any troubles the first time that you power the amp up, having the jumpers on top of the board makes troubleshooting much easier! As for the wires to the tube sockets and pots, you can push them up through the turret from the bottom or wrap them around the turret on the top. I prefer to do it from the top so that I can see my solder joints better and it also makes replacing the wires much easier. I actually drill holes 3/8" from the turret, push my wire up from the bottom and then wrap around the turret and solder. This is how they were done on the older perforated boards so I like to do it to mine.

Post by **ValveStorm** » Fri Jan 30, 2015 5:36 pm

His boards are not perforated. There were a lot of differences in the 12series boards over time... but I think they look cooler with most of the wire soldered on the bottom.
http://www.amparchives.com/album/Marsha ... _0347.html

Goonies · Post by **Goonies** » Fri Jan 30, 2015 5:38 pm

danman wrote:It is best to solder your jumpers on top of the board. If you have any troubles the first time that you power the amp up, having the jumpers on top of the board makes troubleshooting much easier! As for the wires to the tube sockets and pots, you can push them up through the turret from the bottom or wrap them around the turret on the top. I prefer to do it from the top so that I can see my solder joints better and it also makes replacing the wires much easier. I actually drill holes 3/8" from the turret, push my wire up from the bottom and then wrap around the turret and solder. This is how they were done on the older perforated boards so I like to do it to mine.

The turret board is fiber glass.. i guess..

Is it safe to drill this holes? Mine does not have this holes to pass the bottom wires to top.

thanks

Goonies · Post by **Goonies** » Fri Jan 30, 2015 5:43 pm

ValveStorm wrote:His boards are not perforated. There were a lot of differences in the 12series boards over time... but I think they look cooler with most of the wire soldered on the bottom.
http://www.amparchives.com/album/Marsha ... _0347.html

does the holes fits all wires?

Does the jumpers and wires need to reach the top of turrets?

Is it done with 2 steps solder, first bottom and then top?

Post by **ValveStorm** » Fri Jan 30, 2015 5:49 pm

Goonies wrote: does the holes fits all wires?

Not sure what you mean... most holes will only have one wire inserted in the bottom...

Goonies wrote: Does the jumpers and wires need to reach the top of turrets?

No... like I said above, strip the wire, fold the bare wire in half to make a V shape , insert the V into the bottom of the turret

Goonies wrote: Is it done with 2 steps solder, first bottom and then top?

Yes, do all the bottom wires first... add the components on the top later...

Goonies · Post by **Goonies** » Fri Jan 30, 2015 5:54 pm

ValveStorm wrote:
Goonies wrote: does the holes fits all wires?
Not sure what you mean... most holes will only have one wire inserted in the bottom...

Goonies wrote: Does the jumpers and wires need to reach the top of turrets?
No... like I said above, strip the wire, fold the bare wire in half to make a V shape , insert the V into the bottom of the turret

Goonies wrote: Is it done with 2 steps solder, first bottom and then top?
Yes, do all the bottom wires first... add the components on the top later...

thanks for the answers!

Post by **ValveStorm** » Fri Jan 30, 2015 6:08 pm

Check out the pics in the 3rd post here:
http://forum.metroamp.com/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=34892
Don't forget to read all of this:
http://www.mediafire.com/download/uj79s ... ghtOwl.zip

Goonies · Post by **Goonies** » Fri Jan 30, 2015 6:26 pm

ValveStorm wrote:Check out the pics in the 3rd post here:
http://forum.metroamp.com/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=34892
Don't forget to read all of this:
http://www.mediafire.com/download/uj79s ... ghtOwl.zip

this pics are very helpfull! thanks!

neikeel · Post by **neikeel** » Sat Jan 31, 2015 7:30 am

ValveStorm wrote:Check out the pics in the 3rd post here:
http://forum.metroamp.com/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=34892
Don't forget to read all of this:
http://www.mediafire.com/download/uj79s ... ghtOwl.zip

All of these apply to experienced builders.
If you are trying to trouble shoot over the net having the correct wire colours with the wires going off board looped up through a board hole so the colour and joint quality can be seen is very helpful, as well as having the bus wires up top. I personally prefer the look of the pre-'69 builds with all inderneath wire but in practical tems not so easy trying to help newcomers.

Post by **ValveStorm** » Sat Jan 31, 2015 10:57 am

Valid points Neil... given that his 12series boards don't have any pass thru holes, what would you recommend? Probably not a bad idea to take pics of the bottom of the boards, after they are wired, and before installing them/

danman · Post by **danman** » Sat Jan 31, 2015 11:13 am

I have purchased several of those same boards from Valvestorm for my own projects. I have always marked and drilled a series of holes in the board to pass my wires up through and wrap around the turret. I believe that I got the idea from someone else here years ago. It is time consuming to mark and drill all the holes, but I feel more comfortable with my solder connections on top. To the OP, all wire sizes are the same and I believe that I use a 5/32" drill bit for the holes. The standard way that Valvestorm showed earlier is perfectly fine and a lot less time consuming. I just chose to do it on top for ease of troubleshooting when I first started building several years ago.

Strat78 · Post by **Strat78** » Sat Jan 31, 2015 7:10 pm

Those are all great sugestions. Or rather than drill all those holes, it would save you time to just solder the jumpers and hookups to the back being extra mindful that they are in the right place (you have to do that anyway). My pics lay it all out for you with the lengths and everything (note that the black wires are for the Larry ground scheme, look it up, it's an easy modification). Only run the jumpers and hookups about 1/4 of the way into the eyelet. I would suggest populating the board before you mount the board to the chassis, that way you can again check the jumpers and hookups on the back to make sure none of them slipped out with excessive heat. Post pics as you progress with the build, having allot of eyes on your work will help weed out mistakes. Again, Neil's suggestion that you fallow the classic wire color scheme will help both us and you when trouble shooting down the road. Also, closely fallow Billy Batz's 12xxx layouts, to get the wires going to the right pots and socket tabs. This is fun stuff, enjoy!

Goonies · Post by **Goonies** » Sun Feb 01, 2015 6:52 am

Strat78 wrote:Those are all great sugestions. Or rather than drill all those holes, it would save you time to just solder the jumpers and hookups to the back being extra mindful that they are in the right place (you have to do that anyway). My pics lay it all out for you with the lengths and everything (note that the black wires are for the Larry ground scheme, look it up, it's an easy modification). Only run the jumpers and hookups about 1/4 of the way into the eyelet. I would suggest populating the board before you mount the board to the chassis, that way you can again check the jumpers and hookups on the back to make sure none of them slipped out with excessive heat. Post pics as you progress with the build, having allot of eyes on your work will help weed out mistakes. Again, Neil's suggestion that you fallow the classic wire color scheme will help both us and you when trouble shooting down the road. Also, closely fallow Billy Batz's 12xxx layouts, to get the wires going to the right pots and socket tabs. This is fun stuff, enjoy!

I´m afraid to break the fiber glass board with the drill. Is it OK? as a beginner i'm considering to install jumpers on top. I don´t know yet.

The 68 is it really noisy? is it really better with Larry ground scheme? i never played a 68 plexi before

i will start my thread on 12 series build to get help (when the marstran transformers arrive).

thanks!!!

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MetroAmp 12 series Turret Jumpers, back or front?

MetroAmp 12 series Turret Jumpers, back or front?

Re: MetroAmp 12 series Turret Jumpers, back or front?

Re: MetroAmp 12 series Turret Jumpers, back or front?

Re: MetroAmp 12 series Turret Jumpers, back or front?

Re: MetroAmp 12 series Turret Jumpers, back or front?

Re: MetroAmp 12 series Turret Jumpers, back or front?

Re: MetroAmp 12 series Turret Jumpers, back or front?

Re: MetroAmp 12 series Turret Jumpers, back or front?

Re: MetroAmp 12 series Turret Jumpers, back or front?

Re: MetroAmp 12 series Turret Jumpers, back or front?

Re: MetroAmp 12 series Turret Jumpers, back or front?

Re: MetroAmp 12 series Turret Jumpers, back or front?

Re: MetroAmp 12 series Turret Jumpers, back or front?

Re: MetroAmp 12 series Turret Jumpers, back or front?

Re: MetroAmp 12 series Turret Jumpers, back or front?