Any experts on the insides of blackface Deluxe Reverbs here?

[tsma]

Hi everybody.

I've had a '64 Deluxe Reverb for more than 25 years. It's been acting up (making a horrifying, blaring buzz) and so I'm going to take it to someone who knows what they're doing (I sure don't).

Before doing that, however, I was hoping there might be someone here who could tell me if any of the obvious non-original components inside my amp are things that affect the tone.

For example, you can see from the photo below that the Astron caps have been replaced. I know far too little about what happens inside an amp to know if those components have any bearing on the tone. If they do, I would try to source originals (or what are considered the best available substitutes) from the internet and bring them with me to the amp tech.

This first photo is the inside of my amp:



Here's a link to a BIG version of the photo: http://www.legrandmusique.com/mine.jpg


The second photo is something from the internet which, I believe, is showing an untouched original:



Here's a link to a bigger version of this photo: http://www.legrandmusique.com/mine.jpg


Is there anything apart from the Astrons that doesn't look original?

Is there anyone here who would be willing to just kind of eyeball these two photos and note what they spot that would affect the amp's tone?

I would very much appreciate it!

Thanks in advance,


Bryan


P.S. On the underside of the amp, the transformers and the choke and all of those things have serial numbers which match with them being original.

[Roe]

looks clean. the cathode bypass caps may be unoriginal though. check the 100k plate resistors

[Haze13]

I've worked on several vintage Fenders... Not an "expert on Fenders" but I work as a Tech for repairing and maintenance of Pro Audio Equipment, and Tube amps are exactly here

There is a cover on the other side of the chassis. There has to be capacitors. If some of them are leaky, than you'll probably hear some buzzing, or something that is known as HUMM...
Good thing that electrolytic capacitors on the eyelet board had been changed, and that they are not "IC" branded.
I see that Optocoupler (black cockroach) has "new" solder joints. This thing that "makes" the vibrato. There is an oscillator circuit too, but that "thing" can cause some problems to the vibrato. If the position of the two components in that optocoupler are not in the right position, than there will be a weak vibrato. Neon lamp in there can fail with the time too...
One resistor has been changed, but it's for good actually, so don't pay attention.
Don't even think to replace new electrolytic caps with a NOS. Electrolytic caps are not eternal. They are dying even if not being used. There are companies nowadays that make better capacitors than it used to be. There are cheap caps too, but they won't last as long.
Your amp is in a good shape. Take it to a tech that is reliable and knows how to work with tube GUITAR amps and you'll be fine!

[danman]

Be sure that the tech does not remove the blue ajax caps on the board unless they are truly bad. These caps rarely need replacing but many unscrupulous techs will tear out every one and sell them on Ebay. They are pretty hard to find these days and expensive when you do! The electrolytic caps under the dog house should absolutely be checked and replaced if needed. These caps do not last forever and can take out expensive parts if they do fail. Overall, your amp looks very good!

[tsma]

Thank you for all the input, guys. Very much appreciated.

I think what Haze might be noticing is the amp was modded to have the reverb and vibrato on both channels. (My understanding is that it's a rather common thing.) The reality, however, is that both effects are very weak on the normal channel with this mod – not really worth it. So I'm going to have that undone and returned to stock.

One of the few things I do understand about tube amps is that the filter caps need periodic replacing. I'll have that done for sure (I didn't photograph those because they are on the underside under a cover).

Roe: are the cathode bypass caps or the 100k plate resistors something I should try to source to get original, vintage parts?

Haze: are the electrolytic capacitors on the eyelet board the ones that were originally Astrons? And are those some which should be replaced again as a preventative measure by a good tech?

Incidentally, I'm in Minneapolis. Word on the streets is the best guy around is Mike Zeleny in St. Cloud, MN – about an hour's drive away.

www.miketechmusic.com

Thank you very much for eyeballing the innards of my amp all of you! The information you guys have in your heads is incredibly valuable!


bryan

[Roe]

100k Allen Bradley nos Carbon-composite resistors are easily attainable. Check if the originals drifted. Even Fender started using 1k resistors instead of 1/2w in the late 60s

[tsma]

So... these guys would be the same as stock, right:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-NOS-Allen-Br ... SwPc9Wzmcs

[Roe]

yes

[tsma]

Thank you.

I feel much more comfortable now about the steps to take to get this old amp singing again!


bryan

[Haze13]

The Blue caps are the ones that originally were the Astrons.
Most of them on this board are bypass caps and they need to be replaced only when they die. Time - is a very good "cap killer" So,if they are only couple of years old, than they should be fine. The quality of those caps are high enough not to worry about them for number (~10 or so) of years for sure. If there was some kind of malfunction, and they had more voltage than they need, they are about to be replaced, but you'll see what I talkn' about IF, and ONLY IF, this will happen.
By the way, a good practice is to ask for all the replaced components from the tech, after his work on your amp.This way even if he "Stole" the components, you can put them back after his work, if you 100% sure that they are OK. For example these molded dark blue caps, they live almost forever, and it's very rare that they go out, most likely there had to be a reason for that.

[tsma]

Thanks, Haze. It's been at least 15 years since I last took this in for work. So... It's high time.

And I appreciate the reminder about asking for any replaced components – that's just a sound practice to ensure no one gets it in their mind to steal parts!

Any particular brand/type of bypass caps that are better than others? You mentioned "IC" ones being a problem. Anything I should maybe just have on hand?

Incidentally, this kind of thing about the internet just boggles my mind: someone half a world away is just casually sharing information with someone else. There are definitely some amazingly cool things about this day and age!

Again, thank you!


bryan

[danman]

Many folks like to use Sprague atoms for the electrolytic bypass caps because they are more authentic than some of the newer brands. They do cost a bit more though because of the name. F&T, Rifa and BC components are some other good brands that come to mind.

[Haze13]

danman is right, these are very good brands. I can add only japanese brands, which are not so famous in vintage amps, but they are good too:) Elna, Nichicon, Nippon-Chemicon, Panasonic... (New production!) and 105 degrees! Since this is a tube amp, the better Heat Response the longer caps will live.
THERE ARE FAKES! So watch out...

[tsma]

Excellent information, all.

Thank you!

Gonna get that amp in awesome shape again!


bryan

[Roe]

I recomment the made in Germany TAD audio caps for these amps. These are vintage specs filter caps made for vintage Fenders. they are much better than the asian caps sound by TAD and others. Second best would be Sprague, although you need to test these since they are inconsistent