Hello, New Member and huge EVH fan...

[Bore Em at the Forum]

FYI, I've had good experiences with Watco Clear and I've seen it recommended highly. It seems to cure more quickly than other clear coat brands - I can't attest to that as I'm in the "curing" process now so I can't gauge whether I'm looking at 20-30 days or 60-90 days before I can handle and do final wet sanding and polish. But I've been happy with applying it and it has been compatible with a number of different brands of paint. (Duplicolor, Rustoleum, Reranch).

[craigbeckta]

What grit should I use to remove the
Orange Peel before applying the
clear coat 600 or 800?

Craig

[craigbeckta]

If I wet sand the guitar before the clear coat won't
it be impossible to remove all the scratches?

I will just end up with a mess...

Please elaborate on the wet sand process
prior to clear coating.

Thanks,

Craig

[vanhalen5150]

If I wet sand the guitar before the clear coat won't
it be impossible to remove all the scratches?

I will just end up with a mess...

Please elaborate on the wet sand process
prior to clear coating.

Thanks,

Craig

No, your only removing a small amount of the top paint and smoothing out the edge lines from the stripes. Read the book I gave you. With the wet sandpaper it will look dull but not scratched. When you add the clear over top you'll see nothing. Try it on some blank wood with paint, then clearcoat if your unsure what you are doing. It's in the book....

Here is a Strat I did a few years with the Duplicolor acrylic cans and brushed nitro. Wet sanded by hand and swirl remover by hand as well. Hard finish with no scratches years later.

[craigbeckta]

I read the book plus I also have his
"Paint Your Own Guitar".

If you sand the paint finish you then have to
apply a light coat to cover the scratches.

He only wet sands the clear coat on
the 5150 not the paint prior to clear
coating.

If I wet sand the paint then clear coat
it, I will not be able to buff the paint.

You only get down to the 4th layer of clear
coat when you wet sand.

He says that the lines will become level at the
clear coat sanding stage.

So maybe it will clear up he Orange Peel as well.

I may go with Watco Clear spray vs the Deft.

I've heard Deft takes longer to dry and harden.

Craig

[vanhalen5150]

Deft takes about 15 minutes to dry. I've been using it for over a year in those exact cans. Depending on how raised your paint edges are you may have to sand them a little. Otherwise you'll just build up an edge that has to be sanded anyways. If the orange peel effect is not to bad you probably could just go over it. I usually sand it . Other than that you have to just do it.

[Bore Em at the Forum]

Craig, I'd just be patient and start at about 1000 grit (some may advise 800 or so). As mentioned earlier, it will simply remove the "gloss" to where it's a matte finish. It will smooth out your paint edges from the tape.

Think of it this way - if you were to sand a solid color, starting with 600 - and moving to 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, and 2000 - each time you move up to a smoother grade, you are refining what you did in your last step. A minor scratch can be removed this way, but if you start at 800 or 1000, you won't likely scratch the finish. Just take your time and read those sanding tips from places like Reranch Forum - soak your paper overnight, check to make sure paint doesn't build on the paper, etc. (THAT's the kind of thing that will scratch the finish).

The gloss coat you paint over will make everything look fine. May sound counter intuitive, but it's true.

But for "smoothing" out those paint lines, this is essential. It's hard to keep building the lacquer up to get a "mirror" finish on these striped finishes without shooting a LOT of clear coat. The sanding process is best for this.

[craigbeckta]

I debating whether to clear coat it or just relic it.

Hard to say...

I don't think the Wolfgang would look as good relic'd
but who knows.

Craig