Calling Rockstah - 1959 HW to 12xxx series spec

Everything from original vintage Marshalls to reissues.

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Flames1950
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Post by Flames1950 » Sun May 13, 2007 5:12 pm

rockstah wrote:i say it cause i already told him exactly what to do. steps and all. :wink:
True, but how many different questions and ideas did you throw around before that first build, and for all the tweaks afterwards? :wink: :lol:
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rockstah
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Post by rockstah » Sun May 13, 2007 5:45 pm

Flames1950 wrote:
rockstah wrote:i say it cause i already told him exactly what to do. steps and all. :wink:
True, but how many different questions and ideas did you throw around before that first build, and for all the tweaks afterwards? :wink: :lol:
true. true that. i just thought the whole thread was about, he arrived and was chasing what spec i had running after hearing mg my amp. which as u know, i have been there as well. :wink:

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Post by vkaxeman » Sun May 13, 2007 9:59 pm

Rockstah! No worries about getting side tracked.
I am definetly following your advice. You have the sound I am after.

Just curious how his amp sounds. :D

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Post by vkaxeman » Sun May 13, 2007 10:12 pm

Hey Rockstah!

I got my parts you suggested I order.

I ordered:

2 x Sozo Mustard Type .1uf 400v capacitors.

The ones I received have 104k 400v 0705r stamped on them.
Did I receive the correct parts?

and

2 x BC 330uf 25 volt capacitors. (grabbed an extra one figured I might need in the future)
These are marked the same, 330uf 25 volt.

When I solder these in, do I need to use heat sink clips to protect them from soldering heat?

I will get an audio file made in the next of couple of days of the amp as it is right now and then one after I add these parts.

THanks!

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Post by wdelaney72 » Mon May 14, 2007 8:25 am

This is a stock HW? If so, you will also want to consider changing the OT. I've found both George's and Marstran's Dagnall OT to be great. Others have had similar success with MM and Cerrems. Regardless, this is one of the more noticeable sounding upgrades that can be made.

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Post by vkaxeman » Mon May 14, 2007 9:52 am

This is a stock HW?
I bought this amp used. The previous owner stated that he was the second owner and as far as he knew it was completely stock except for 2 NOS preamp tubes.

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Post by vkaxeman » Mon May 14, 2007 9:46 pm

Hey Rockstah!

Making my cap drain wire so I can put in the new parts tomorrow night.
I found some 1000v rated wire but the only resistor I could find with a watt rating on it is a 220 ohm 1 watt resistor. Will this work OK?

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Post by rockstah » Mon May 14, 2007 11:03 pm

vkaxeman wrote:Hey Rockstah!

Making my cap drain wire so I can put in the new parts tomorrow night.
I found some 1000v rated wire but the only resistor I could find with a watt rating on it is a 220 ohm 1 watt resistor. Will this work OK?
u could use a 100k.. in fact the resistor is not needed for draining caps in a your Marshall spec. u could make your draining tool without a resistor.

the whole idea with that resistor is to drain caps slowly.
with the Marshall spec pin1 v1 has a 100k plate resistor that allows for slow enough drainage.

when you take a wire and run it from chassis to to pin1 on v1 that 100k plate resistor attached to pin 1 , v1 is the same thing as having a 100k or 220k resistor in your drain tool. bigger the resistor the slower the drain of the cap.

so lets say you had cap that wouldn't drain. a screw driver from the caps positive to chassis ground sure would drain it. usually a huge spark as it quickly goes to ground! with my tool using the 220k it would discharge slow enough to be safe on you and the cap.

so you Can make your discharge tool without a resistor for now if all u are going to be doing is chassis to pin1 v1 to discharge your Marshall amp.

hope this makes sense.

Mark

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Post by vkaxeman » Mon May 14, 2007 11:57 pm

Yes that makes sense. Thanks Mark!

Here are some sound files I made tonight. Please disregard the crappy playing. Stock Fender Floyd Rose Classic Strat, Shure SM57, Marshall AHW 4-12 cab with G-12 30 watts into ProTools Digi 002. Dry no effects or EQ added.
http://www.soundclick.com/1959hwstock

Note: On LeadCHNotDimed_2.mp3 All pots are Not Dimed. Settings are:
Presence on 8, Bass on 10, Mid on 6, Treble on 6, CH1 Volume on 10

Oh one more thing before I put the new parts in tomorrow night:

I got my parts you suggested I order.

I ordered:

2 x Sozo Mustard Type .1uf 400v capacitors.

The ones I received have 104k 400v 0705r stamped on them.
Did I receive the correct parts?

and

2 x BC 330uf 25 volt capacitors. (grabbed an extra one figured I might need in the future)
These are marked the same, 330uf 25 volt.

When I solder these in, do I need to use heat sink clips to protect them from soldering heat?

THanks!
Last edited by vkaxeman on Thu Nov 22, 2007 2:33 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Post by rockstah » Tue May 15, 2007 12:49 am

vkaxeman wrote:Yes that makes sense. Thanks Mark!

Here are some sound files I made tonight. Please disregard the crappy playing. Stock Fender Floyd Rose Classic Strat, Shure SM57, Marshall AHW 4-12 cab with G-12 30 watts into ProTools Digi 002. Dry no effects or EQ added.
http://www.vandelynkross.com/audio/HWLe ... yDimed.mp3

http://www.vandelynkross.com/audio/LeadCHNotDimed_2.mp3
Presence on 8, Bass on 10, Mid on 6, Treble on 6, CH1 Volume on 10

http://www.vandelynkross.com/audio/HWSt ... dDimed.mp3
http://www.vandelynkross.com/audio/HWSt ... imed_2.mp3
http://www.vandelynkross.com/audio/HWSt ... imed_4.mp3

I have a soundclick account. Do they give you any hassle due to copyrights for uploading short tracks like this of VH guitar parts?

Oh one more thing before I put the new parts in tomorrow night:

I got my parts you suggested I order.

I ordered:

2 x Sozo Mustard Type .1uf 400v capacitors.

The ones I received have 104k 400v 0705r stamped on them.
Did I receive the correct parts?

and

2 x BC 330uf 25 volt capacitors. (grabbed an extra one figured I might need in the future)
These are marked the same, 330uf 25 volt.

When I solder these in, do I need to use heat sink clips to protect them from soldering heat?

THanks!
i think it sounds good.- your amp has one of my favorite specs already- will be interesting where it ends up from here. i hear a few things going on but we'll see as u make the mods where it goes.
yes the caps are correct.
if u know how solder well then dont worry about over heating the caps. be swift.
nice playing btw. ;)

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Post by vkaxeman » Wed May 16, 2007 1:11 am

Hey Rockstah!
nice playing btw
Thanks!

Ok I just finished installing the new parts you recommended for the first mod.

1 - Original ERD .68uf 250 volt cap replaced with BC 330uf 25 volt cap.
2 - Original ERD .0022uf 630v caps replaced with SOZO .1uf 400V caps.
Removed the VOL1 - 472 cap.

Pics are here http://www.putfile.com/vkaxeman/images/161357

Please let me know if you see any problems with the part replacements.
I also included some pics of how I drained the caps. I also had a volt meter on one of the caps and the max voltage I seen on it after power off prior to draining was about 35 volts. Do these drain down by themselves because of the resistors on some of them? Also when you mention you check the Hot spots before working on your amps what are the hot spots and do you check them by connecting the negative lead of the DMM to ground and then 1 hand in pocket / probe the positives?

I hope to fire this baby up tomorrow night and record it. I will post new mp3s as soon as possible.

Thanks for your time and help!
Last edited by vkaxeman on Thu Nov 22, 2007 2:35 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Post by ScottW » Wed May 16, 2007 1:34 am

vkaxeman wrote:Hey Rockstah!
nice playing btw
Thanks!

Ok I just finished installing the new parts you recommended for the first mod.

1 - Original ERD .68uf 250 volt cap replaced with BC 330uf 25 volt cap.
2 - Original ERD .0022uf 630v caps replaced with SOZO .1uf 400V caps.
Removed the VOL1 - 472 cap.

Pics are here http://www.vk4rock.com/mod1.htm

Please let me know if you see any problems with the part replacements.
I also included some pics of how I drained the caps. I also had a volt meter on one of the caps and the max voltage I seen on it after power off prior to draining was about 35 volts. Do these drain down by themselves because of the resistors on some of them? Also when you mention you check the Hot spots before working on your amps what are the hot spots and do you check them by connecting the negative lead of the DMM to ground and then 1 hand in pocket / probe the positives?

I hope to fire this baby up tomorrow night and record it. I will post new mp3s as soon as possible.

Thanks for your time and help!
Wait, on V2a's cathode, you might have that 330uF cap in backwards. The + should go to the tube and the - should go to ground, towards the pots. It looks like the beveled-in edge (usually signifying the positive end) is going towards ground, which is the wrong way. Check to be sure. Very nice looking work!

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Post by vkaxeman » Wed May 16, 2007 9:31 am

Wait, on V2a's cathode, you might have that 330uF cap in backwards.
I will correct that tonight before I fire it up. Thanks!

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Post by rockstah » Wed May 16, 2007 2:39 pm

excellent.
also a note the caps u replaced in the output section are .022u - u replaced them with .1u. just so u know this.
also the + of the 330u cap goes towards the tube.
that 472 cap u snipped was a 4700pf cap - wow!

interested to what u think this far.

Mark

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Post by bluze81 » Wed May 16, 2007 3:20 pm

rockstah wrote:excellent.
also a note the caps u replaced in the output section are .022u - u replaced them with .1u. just so u know this.
also the + of the 330u cap goes towards the tube.
that 472 cap u snipped was a 4700pf cap - wow!

interested to what u think this far.

Mark
The cap he snipped was a 4700pf, was that the bright cap?

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