i had no idea they used shims under the saddles until recently. my warmoth is a little wrong in this respect. the outer strings E & e are really a bit too low in comparison to the "inner" ones. when i raise the bridge for them to be right for me, the d & g are too high. i guess this has to be re-setup for the 10 x 18 compound radius. i'm just glad it can be fixed!
ps - has anybody tried this?
http://cgi.ebay.com/MASSIVE-SUSTAIN-TRE ... otohosting
floyd rose & shims
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- 45auto
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floyd rose & shims
http://www.soundclick.com/bands/default ... dID=559714" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://s62.photobucket.com/albums/h119/ ... t=1980.flv" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://s62.photobucket.com/albums/h119/ ... t=1980.flv" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
- fillmore nyc
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Thats why they get too close on the E strings when using a Warmoth neck. That neck compounds from 10" to 16", so if the action is right on the D and G strings, it will get progressively more "wrong"(jester wrote:The real Floyd radius is 10", typically the fret board needs to be that or close!

Ye be needin' some shimmy's to keerect that issue!!!
PS- did you find some shims for that, 45? If you cant, some feeler gauge blades cut up with a Dremel tool will fit the bill real nice, and you can get the radius exact that way.



- 45auto
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thanks guys, indeed i did get a set of shims, i'm just waiting for my brass block to come in. hey fillmore, you know these warmoths well, i removed the long "shim" under strings 2-5 that came stock, it appears to be maybe .015"? might get part of the way there. do you think maybe (1) .2mm shim under each of the E's will make this fairly correct? i'm just hoping the shims don't make the floyd tone any worse! surely not much.
http://www.soundclick.com/bands/default ... dID=559714" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://s62.photobucket.com/albums/h119/ ... t=1980.flv" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://s62.photobucket.com/albums/h119/ ... t=1980.flv" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
- fillmore nyc
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I think you're gonna have to experiment with that one, 45. It SOUNDS like it would be correct, but Im not really familiar with how that radius would translate to shim height at the bridge. Anything you do there will help, and as long as the nut has the correct radius (10"), once you get the bridge correct, the strings will also graduate in radius along their entire length, following the radius of the fretboard.45auto wrote: i removed the long "shim" under strings 2-5 that came stock, it appears to be maybe .015"? might get part of the way there. do you think maybe (1) .2mm shim under each of the E's will make this fairly correct? i'm just hoping the shims don't make the floyd tone any worse! surely not much.
The easy way to get it as exact as possible is to lower the entire bridge until the E strings just touch the last fret ( a small piece of paper works good as a "feeler gauge"). Then you can see how high the A, D, G and B strings are off the last fret. You can remove a shim from 2-5, or add 'em to the E's. Either way will work, and I dont think it will affect the tone with or without shims.
(Its a Floyd after all...







- 45auto
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thanks bud! that sounds like the optimal way to approach it. it plays pretty decent as is, i get it right it will play like a dream. have a good one.
http://www.soundclick.com/bands/default ... dID=559714" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://s62.photobucket.com/albums/h119/ ... t=1980.flv" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://s62.photobucket.com/albums/h119/ ... t=1980.flv" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;