How in the F@ck do I fix this.

axeman · Post by **axeman** » Thu Oct 29, 2009 10:29 pm

I've had and been playing this Charvel strat body/guitar since 1985 and today I felt like restringing it and fuck. How do I fix it? Any one Please.

Thanks

Art

Post by **Scumback Speakers** » Thu Oct 29, 2009 10:31 pm

You'll need a qualified luthier for that one, I believe. Jim Foote, MusicWorks, Lawndale, CA...310-379-5194

Say hello to my 59 Junior while you're there.

axeman · Post by **axeman** » Thu Oct 29, 2009 10:32 pm

Thanks Jim.

Post by **Scumback Speakers** » Thu Oct 29, 2009 10:41 pm

Hey, you're welcome! I'm here to help when I can. I know Jim can figure this out for you. God knows he has the experience...just a question of what your guitar's wood condition will allow for a fix.

axeman · Post by **axeman** » Thu Oct 29, 2009 11:55 pm

If he can't fix it, I'll just have to buy a new strat body from warmoth.

Structo · Post by **Structo** » Fri Oct 30, 2009 1:18 pm

That is a pretty easy fix if you want to try it.

I would pull the post then use some Titebond original.

Spread the crack a little bit so the glue can get in.

After it has cured (24 hours or so) drill the correct size for the post and re-insert the post.

vanhalen5150 · Post by **vanhalen5150** » Sun Nov 01, 2009 8:28 am

Structo wrote:That is a pretty easy fix if you want to try it.

I would pull the post then use some Titebond original.

Spread the crack a little bit so the glue can get in.

After it has cured (24 hours or so) drill the correct size for the post and re-insert the post.

+1, Yup. I had this happen a few years ago and thats what I did. The other thing I did when I put the post back in was add a bit of epoxy inside the new hole and the outside of the post housing against the wood. What this does is also holds it from all directions. The back end as well opposite the forward force of the pivot, and forward force that caused the problem in the first place. To get the whole thing out, leave the screw post in, take a small block of wood(1-2") against the body to use as a lever/base. A simple claw hammer under the screw head will lift the entire thing out.
When you put it back in, remove the screw, center the housing and push/hammer gently with a block of wood over top of it . That will make it go in plush. Dont put it back in that way with the screw post still in it.
I never had a problem with it again.

Structo · Post by **Structo** » Sun Nov 01, 2009 12:38 pm

The OP informed me through PM that it is a Floyd trem and the posts are actually screws only.
No pressed in post, just a screw.

So if the hole does indeed feel loose when you screw the post back in then adding some Titebond on the screw threads may be enough to tighten it up once cured.

axeman · Post by **axeman** » Sun Nov 01, 2009 2:16 pm

I fixed her already. I got the titebond nice and hot and applied it with a syringe needle. I used vicegrips to press the wood rite at the crack, left a hair width crack on the wood.

jcmjmp · Post by **jcmjmp** » Sun Nov 01, 2009 6:33 pm

Structo wrote:That is a pretty easy fix if you want to try it.

I would pull the post then use some Titebond original.

Spread the crack a little bit so the glue can get in.

After it has cured (24 hours or so) drill the correct size for the post and re-insert the post.

You'll have to clamp it down if you use glue.

If you can't clamp it, use epoxy instead and use heat to make it go into the crack.

vanhalen5150 · Post by **vanhalen5150** » Mon Nov 02, 2009 7:27 am

If that doesnt last. Re plug the holes and redrill the holes for the newer version with the post and insert. Stew-Mac has the newer version with the old black slot screw look.

BnATX · Post by **BnATX** » Mon Nov 16, 2009 5:27 pm

thats what i did to my 80's Kramer. plugged the hole up with dowl and redrilled.
I just reused the wood screw type posts, but at some point i am going to do the press in inserts and screws.

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