Compound radius??????

[TONGA]

Ok many questions? Lets say you have a 10-16 or a 7-9 for that mater,, how do you get the setup correct from one end of the neck to the other? I mean if the action is nice at 5th fret then isn’t going to be a bit jacked at say the 17th fret? Or vice versa? Also what about trem and bridges do they come in all these different radius? Like a isn’t a FR like a 10 or something? How would that work with a 10- 16 neck. Or say what is a standard strat trem? Or gibson style bridge? Just cant see how all this can work well together?
I have been thinking about buying some stuff from DB, but have never really done a fresh build before and I don’t want it to come out poorly,, in fact I would like it to come out so well as to be my main guitar.

[fillmore nyc]

IMO the bridge has to be set up (saddle arched) for the radius at the 22nd fret (or 24th, whichever is the last fret) with a compound radius.
On a 10"-16" comp, the nut is obviously cut for a 10" radius. If the bridge is arched for a 16" radius, then the strings are going to naturally follow the fretboard radius. The action is always set at the last fret, and the action anywhere between those points (7th fret, 12th fret) is a function of the truss rod being correctly adjusted, and how well prepped the fingerboard/frets are, obviously.
In my opinion, a correctly set up compound radius neck is the best playing neck there is. If you've ever played a really good 80's neck thru Jackson, you know what I mean. Super low action with humongous frets (if thats your thing) and effortless, buzz-less 2+ step bends.
(I'd like to hear other guys opinion on this... its how I've always viewed comp boards, and Im curious about other guys theories on the subject)

[Roe]

no, a 10-16 fretboard requires a much flatter radius at the bridge than 16", actually closer to 20

[908ssp]

If you set each string individually for action at the last fret the action will be fine all over the neck. The actually radius at the bridge will be more than the radius at the end of the fret board. Think of the fret board extending all the way to the bridge the increasing radius from say 10 to 16 just keeps increasing. So what number it ends up isn't important if you can set up individual string heights. If you can't then you have to find a bridge with a radius at least bigger than the last fret and compromise is the best you can do.

[TONGA]

“set each string individually” how can you do that with a any trem other than a kahler? And what about a hard tail like a giby? This is sounding more and more problematic???

[vanhalen5150]

“set each string individually” how can you do that with a any trem other than a kahler? And what about a hard tail like a giby? This is sounding more and more problematic???

For starters, what trem do you have?

[Roe]

a floyd should work well with the 10-16 radii since it is so flat. with a tune o matic you need to use a file - no problem at all

[908ssp]

Almost all Fender trems have individual height adjustments.

[TONGA]

I don’t have any trem at the moment, I was thinking about doing a build and contemplating all the options, I have guitars with hard tails, 1 fender trem, 2FR trems,1 ZR trem and I even have a kahler equipped guitar. But they were all built that way. I was just thinking about the compound radius thing and what kind of trouble it might be and would it be worth the trouble? And of course I started thinking about radius in general and having to match the bridge to it,, ,something I never gave much thought about,,,, so I figured this would be the place to ask??

[vanhalen5150]

Think of a compound radius as a cone shape, rather than a cylinder. One end being bigger than the other. As long as you run a straight edge straight from one end to the other the straight edge will always touch the cone. Deviate too much and you'll have problems. Early guitars like Fenders had a small radius, 7. When players got into bending strings it caused the problem in the upper frets by the string fretting out on the fret above. Hence the compound radius. The flatter curve allowed for string bending with a lower action.
A good neck with a compound radius also allows for a perfectly straight neck. No relief or bow required as was done to Strats with a single radius to componsate, thus creating higher action.
Get an adjustable bridge IMO. If your using a floyd, get a 16'' radius.

http://www.ratcliffe.co.za/articles/radius.shtml" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[TONGA]

Vanhalen5151 wrote “A good neck with a compound radius also allows for a perfectly straight neck. No relief or bow required as was done to Strats with a single radius to componsate, thus creating higher action.”
Now that is information that is intriguing!
Thanks to all for your reply’s. so who is playing a copound radius and how do they like it???

[Roe]

I have a 10-16 neck and like it. perhaps a 10-14 would be better or 9-13 or something.

[TONGA]

I wish I knew some body in my area that had them ..really curious as to the feel and mojo? Are any new production guitars sporting compound radius necks? You know so maybe I could check out a few

[Roe]

yes, suhr uses 10-14".
compound does not make a huge difference, but its noticable. I prefer it

[TONGA]

Thanks for all the info guys I am going to see if I can check out a few.