![Image](http://static.musiciansfriend.com/derivates/18/001/387/930/DV016_Jpg_Large_423228.jpg)
It's the set Ed also used to endorse while at Ernie Ball.
![Image](http://www.axcessories.com/prodimages/axstrgeb5150.gif)
But now he endorses/promotes/brands 9-42s and 9-46s
![Image](http://www.vanhalenstore.com/shop/graphics/00000001/EVH42C.jpg)
![Image](http://www.vanhalenstore.com/shop/graphics/00000001/EVH46C.jpg)
Does having a thinner Low E (40 vs 42s) and D string (15 vs 16s) make a difference tone wise?
Moderators: VelvetGeorge, RACKSYSTEMS
After using my own preferred strings (GHS Medium Boomer .011s with an .018 G string) I am trying the G150XL's (Fender pure nickel 150XL strings with a bullet end) on my Fender Clapton/VH-1 strat on the recommendation of many on this board. I think there may be something to this gauge of string for the early Van Halen tones...it ain't what I like on my other guitars, but I think it may turn out that I have to have this particluar guitar set up just for VH tones using these strings. I have ordered a plain .042 gauge nickel bullet string to replace the .040 that came in the G150XL set so that it is the same as the EVH strings.stratonenator wrote:I converted to pure nickels a while ago. I was using the DR's 9s they sounded great but are so high tension I was busting them like crazy. I just recently ordered a bunch of fender pure nickel bullets 9-40 and I have to say they have the magic! Sound great, really let the amp breath and add presence while also staying in tune with a non-locking set up to an insane degree of divebombing
Who drilled the block for you and which tremolo did you do it on? Callaham? Tokai?Tone Slinger wrote:I have my tremelo block holes drilled deeper (Frudua's method) so that the string's end is right UNDER the saddle. The ball ends 'wrap' would hit the saddle if I used these. The bullet ends are perfect (no wrap).
As you know, I already get excellent tuning stability and I follow the recommendations of many, but especially Frudua. The only thing I haven't done yet is get the block drilled.Tone Slinger wrote:Any machinist will do this for you, just maK sure you have a mark on the block that lets them know how deep to go. The bullet ends on mine are about an 8th of an inch (no more than 3/16ths) from exiting the block, going up to the saddles.
The old Tokai bridges sound the best to me, with the Callaham being second. The reissue Fenders are good too, as are the Gotoh reissues.
The metal content (hardness-softness) of the block and saddles is key. Softer ='s slightly WARMER but less brightness and clarity, while Harder ='s brighter and more clarity.
Callaham is a little on the bright side. lots of clarity.
Fender reissue is very slightly on the warm side(tad less brightness and clarity)
Gotoh vintage is even warmer (softer metal) giving the least clarity/brightness
Tokai is tops, as it equals the Callahams CLARITY as well as equals the WARMTH of the Fender and Gotoh bridges.
So depending on the guitar, the Callaham might be TOO bright.
Fender reissues are probably the best bet, 'cause the Callahams might get TOO bright on some guitars, and The Tokai's are hard to find and expensive.
Follow EVERY detail of the Frudua vids, and you will get the best possible tuning stability from a 6 screw vintage Fender style tremelo.