
Mark
Moderator: VelvetGeorge
vlad wrote:Great stuff!
Pardon my ignorance, but what are the caps and diodes on the right hand side of the amp (1000uf/25uf etc...) used for?
Awesome man! I appreciate the info!xenrelic wrote:vlad wrote:Great stuff!
Pardon my ignorance, but what are the caps and diodes on the right hand side of the amp (1000uf/25uf etc...) used for?
Thanks, vlad. That's the 12vdc heater circuit for V1 and V2. I installed it to reduce hum and to run the relay switching that I install with this mod to switch between 2 different sets of pre and master pots, also to switch between the vintage and modern inputs. I will update the layout with the relay switching in version 5 once I figure out how to get the input switching part quiet and smooth enough to be worth sharing with you guys.
Thank you so much.xenrelic wrote:It's an asymmetrical clipping circuit that is designed to emulate power tube distortion and works best after the final gain stage that is fed by a large coupling capacitor around .22uF to .33uF depending on how much bass response is wanted. Lower values from .022uF to .1uF, don't seem to work very well and can cause undesired results.
I notice a really cool grinding sustain that occurs, when engaged just before the pre-tonestack master volume.
If you were to experiment with diode clipping earlier in the preamp stages, I would check out the different types of clipping available as well. Possibly starting with a symmetrical clipping circuit that utilizes germanium diodes or a hybrid combination of silicon and germanium.
Maybe something like this (just for shits and giggles): http://img94.imageshack.us/img94/1068/p1040560q.jpg You can also try moving the 33k resistor between to the gain pot wiper and the input grid of V1B.
Here's some different types of clipping you can try along with a great article about it.
http://www.cubisteffects.com/images/MIY ... mmetry.jpg
http://www.effectrode.com/blackbird-vac ... -explained