1 3/4 nut width

[Velva]

I've been really going back and worth on my specs for a new build. In the end, I ordered the neck and body from Musikraft...but I really couldn't make up my mind about the nut width. So I took my 1 3/4 nut and move it along the neck until it came to the 5th fret, on this fret of my guitar (with a 1 5/8 nut) the nut was the same width as the 5th fret. So, I guess I'm just trying to pass along this info if there is anyone out there on the fence. If you can imagine playing from the 5th fret on up (on a 1 5/8th nut guitar) comfortably, then go with the larger 1 3/4 nut width. Otherwise, I think it is more about comfort and fit not what Ed used.

[Tone Slinger]

Absolutely

[T.L.]

That theory sounds logical, but in reality, I don't think it's that simple (just my opinion).

I have small hands, and all my guitars have a 1-5/8" nut. I can literally feel the difference of a 1-11/16" nut (and it's less comfortable for me), even though it's only 1/32" wider on each side of the nut...

[Velva]

What I was getting at is... if someone has a neck with a 1 5/8th nut width then at the 5th fret the width is (at least on my guitar) 1 3/4. So, it can give someone a good idea of what it feels like to play the larger 1 3/4 nut width type necks like on the B&W Franky. It is not perfect as it could depend on the profile of the neck especially if you have a compound 12-16 radius.

[Tone Slinger]

That theory sounds logical, but in reality, I don't think it's that simple (just my opinion).

I have small hands, and all my guitars have a 1-5/8" nut. I can literally feel the difference of a 1-11/16" nut (and it's less comfortable for me), even though it's only 1/32" wider on each side of the nut...

Thats what Velva was pointing out. On paper(or on a ruler) an 8th of an inch (or even a 16th) isnt much. But in your hands it IS. Same with weight. If you hold 6 oz ( ) in your hand, it isnt much, but when you have a guitar strapped on your back and standing, there is a BIG difference in a 7 1/2 lb guitar and a 8lb guitar.

[rgorke]

I didn't think I would like a 1 3/4 inch neck because most of my guitars are 1 5/8 or 1 11/16. However, if the contour of the neck is shaped properly or in a slender way, the size isn't that noticeable. Meaning, we are dealing with a 3 dimensional object in our hands and the nut length is only one of those dimensions. I have also sanded down a couple of necks to make my hand feel much better. YMMV....

[Tone Slinger]

So Roger,on your Locke Vh1/ Ellsworth clone neck, at what fret does the width of that neck become the same as a neck with a 1 5/8 neck ? I'd say that from the 5th fret to the 21st fret on either neck that the width/feel would be the same ?

[rgorke]

So Roger,on your Locke Vh1/ Ellsworth clone neck, at what fret does the width of that neck become the same as a neck with a 1 5/8 neck ? I'd say that from the 5th fret to the 21st fret on either neck that the width/feel would be the same ?

Between the 4th and 5th but my point is that is not the whole picture. If the back is contoured flatter or more slender, that width measurement becomes less relevant to what your hand feels. I would bet a fat back contour with a 1 5/8 nut feels similar to a 1 3/4 nut with a slender or flatter back.

[Tone Slinger]

I think I may try the 1 3/4 (a Locke Ellsworth clone). As long as the butt/heel is the standard Fender dimension, I'm sure I could adjust. (also, a 'thin' back contour like you mentioned). I had a Divebombinc clone neck one time, but it had the extra wide heel. It was like a surf board . Ed's Franky neck pocket appeared to be the standard Fender spec. He had a standard Kramer neck on it, as well as many other necks.

Also, Ed had a 1&11/16 brass nut on that 1 3/4 nut width Ellsworth neck. Alot of people may or may not know that.

[Star*Guitar]

Also, Ed had a 1&11/16 brass nut on that 1 3/4 nut width Ellsworth neck. Alot of people may or may not know that.

Interesting I've never read that anywhere before. What is your source?

[Tone Slinger]

When you look at pics of the B&W era Franky you can see that the brass nut doesn't fill the length of the nut slot completely,especially on the high E side. Maybe that high E needed a little help staying on the fretboard ?

[rdodson]

The Ellsworth neck was put on at a slight angle, so that if the nut wasn't cut up a bit the high E would slide off the neck in the upper register.

I kid you not.

It was a piece of crap that sounded amazing.

Please remember the neck cavity was cut to Charvel specs, not Fender specs. Larger.

[Tone Slinger]

I know that there is the 'sliver' in the neck pocket of my KnE Azusa/Franky. I have heard varying stories/accounts of the neck pocket. I'd say that between Fender/Charvel/Kramer that no more than a 16th (maybe an 8th) of an inch differentiated the neck pockets. Ed had what looked to be a straight up Fender neck on the Frank before the Ellsworth and a Kramer neck by '83 or so. I think it was Kyle ( Divebombinc.) Who said the neck pocket was SO wide. The body/neck I got from him was literally like a classical guitars width at the butt/pocket.

[rdodson]

The original Franky neck was 2 1/8" wide at the butt from what I was told. The body was cut 2 1/4". Hence the "sliver" and slop. The neck was put on, by Ed, crooked. Forget the FR bridge alignment, there was no way the Fender trem would completely intonate when that first neck was on there.

Both were 2nds. Most of the early Charvel bodies had the narrower cavity but they varied.

[Tone Slinger]

That is all very feasable for sure A 16th of an inch isnt a deal breaker (give or take). It looked like the pocket was routed AFTER the bodies 'outline/shape' was cut, cause the part of the body that the necks mounting screws go into is wider than the route for the neck, hence the 'sliver'.

Man, it is gonna be cool when EVH/Fender releases a '78 era Franky like the one Ed donated. Ellis had THE neck to spec out. I would get one and strip the paint off the body, basically I'd get it for the neck alone. *THAT IS* as long as the production price is right (no 25k insanity )