The PPIMV (Post-PI-Master-Volume) thread.

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CoffeeTones
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Re: The PPIMV (Post-PI-Master-Volume) thread.

Post by CoffeeTones » Sat Feb 09, 2013 4:21 pm

The 2.2M = safety resistors
5.6k are already there usually
You can re-use the green and orange wires twisted together for shielding or not, but would be better to use shielded wire.

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Re: The PPIMV (Post-PI-Master-Volume) thread.

Post by riff19 » Wed Feb 13, 2013 11:46 am

Will the 5.6k resistors be in a JTM45? If so, what do they look like? Do I just leave them where they are?

What would re-using & twisting the green & orange wires be used to shield? What do they shield? Where would this go? Is there a picture illustrating this setup?

Thanks!

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Re: The PPIMV (Post-PI-Master-Volume) thread.

Post by CoffeeTones » Wed Feb 13, 2013 12:40 pm

Not to be rude, but for your safety maybe you should have a tech do the mod. If you can't figure these simple things out, maybe you should not be messing around inside the amp. I will also add that if you do not discharge the amp, it could electrocute and kill you.

I will try to help, but don't want to lead you to injury.

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Re: The PPIMV (Post-PI-Master-Volume) thread.

Post by djseban » Tue Apr 09, 2013 2:41 pm

Hi,
I've just finished my #34/#36 amp, and I consider mounting Lar/Mar PPIMV. I've one question about cables on pot. In metroamp wiki,

Code: Select all

http://metroamp.com/wiki/index.php/Lar/Mar_PPI-MV
I can read, that if you are mounting PPIMV, you have to use RG174/U as your cable for mod. Is this really necessary to use this type of cable? I've asked for this in all electronics stores in my city - they say, that they don't have it in stock.

Regards
DIY JCM800 2203, mod #34/#36

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Re: The PPIMV (Post-PI-Master-Volume) thread.

Post by neikeel » Tue Apr 09, 2013 5:04 pm

djseban wrote:Hi,
I've just finished my #34/#36 amp, and I consider mounting Lar/Mar PPIMV. I've one question about cables on pot. In metroamp wiki,

Code: Select all

http://metroamp.com/wiki/index.php/Lar/Mar_PPI-MV
I can read, that if you are mounting PPIMV, you have to use RG174/U as your cable for mod. Is this really necessary to use this type of cable? I've asked for this in all electronics stores in my city - they say, that they don't have it in stock.

Regards
It is not mandatory, just that you have long wires with lots of signal passing through the middle of your pre-amp making cross talk and interference more likely. Using a decent shielded wire (not necessarily this type) is a good idea, you may get away with it, or not :wink:
Neil

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Re: The PPIMV (Post-PI-Master-Volume) thread.

Post by djseban » Wed Apr 10, 2013 2:09 pm

neikeel wrote:
djseban wrote:Hi,
I've just finished my #34/#36 amp, and I consider mounting Lar/Mar PPIMV. I've one question about cables on pot. In metroamp wiki,

Code: Select all

http://metroamp.com/wiki/index.php/Lar/Mar_PPI-MV
I can read, that if you are mounting PPIMV, you have to use RG174/U as your cable for mod. Is this really necessary to use this type of cable? I've asked for this in all electronics stores in my city - they say, that they don't have it in stock.

Regards
It is not mandatory, just that you have long wires with lots of signal passing through the middle of your pre-amp making cross talk and interference more likely. Using a decent shielded wire (not necessarily this type) is a good idea, you may get away with it, or not :wink:
Thanks for reply, I drilled a hole near impedance selector and mounted PPIMV. It's working perfectly, by first try, even without shielded cable.

Regards
DIY JCM800 2203, mod #34/#36

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Re: The PPIMV (Post-PI-Master-Volume) thread.

Post by syscokid » Sat Apr 13, 2013 7:50 am

djseban wrote:... you have to use RG174/U as your cable for mod. Is this really necessary to use this type of cable? I've asked for this in all electronics stores in my city - they say, that they don't have it in stock.
Where are you located?
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Re: The PPIMV (Post-PI-Master-Volume) thread.

Post by coldengray » Mon Jun 24, 2013 3:41 pm

I installed the LarMar MV in my JTM45 last night and I seem to notice more gain now...is this normal?

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Re: The PPIMV (Post-PI-Master-Volume) thread.

Post by CoffeeTones » Wed Jun 26, 2013 12:37 pm

There should not be more perceived gain if the LarMar is turned all the way up, unless the resistors and pot in parallel do not equal the original value of the two resistors removed from the original circuit. Turned down, yes.

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Re: The PPIMV (Post-PI-Master-Volume) thread.

Post by stef » Wed Jun 26, 2013 2:17 pm

coldengray wrote:I installed the LarMar MV in my JTM45 last night and I seem to notice more gain now...is this normal?
Yes it is normal, the gain increase comes from lowering the NFB via PPIMV. It should also sound looser and brighter, fizzier etc :evil:

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Re: The PPIMV (Post-PI-Master-Volume) thread.

Post by coldengray » Wed Jun 26, 2013 6:09 pm

Yes, turned below Noon it gets fuzzy and loose. And definitely more gain the more the MV is used. But certainly a very usable solution. Noon or higher it really shines. Thanks for the help. Love this amp!

PS - yes when turned completely up everything is back to "normal". And loud!

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Re: The PPIMV (Post-PI-Master-Volume) thread.

Post by coldengray » Tue Jul 02, 2013 8:35 pm

Would increasing the 47pf PI cap help smooth the fizziness when the LarMar is engaged heavily?

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Re: The PPIMV (Post-PI-Master-Volume) thread.

Post by stef » Wed Jul 03, 2013 9:50 pm

Yes, increasing it should help, but what worked best for me was removing that MV all together :roll:

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Re: The PPIMV (Post-PI-Master-Volume) thread.

Post by Roe » Thu Jul 04, 2013 6:50 am

coldengray wrote:Would increasing the 47pf PI cap help smooth the fizziness when the LarMar is engaged heavily?
I'd rather increase NFB. try a 22k resistor in series with a 220k pot into the 16 ohms secondary
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Re: The PPIMV (Post-PI-Master-Volume) thread.

Post by coldengray » Thu Jul 04, 2013 7:53 am

stef wrote:Yes, increasing it should help, but what worked best for me was removing that MV all together :roll:
It doesn't color the tone too much at 50% or higher...it's certainly a usable solution for me considering it only cost $10 in parts. I might try out a Phaez Brink attentuator.

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